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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2366

post #35476 of 37396

@CaptainTohm  I vote for full canvas + soft shoulder.  

post #35477 of 37396
I'm going with no shoulder padding (probably with spalla camicia), one way or the other. My favorite SuSu jackets don't have any padding, and I have a good build for the natural-shoulder look.

Talking to you guys about suit structure has changed the way I look at fit pics. Before this process I rarely noticed if a jacket had any structure through the body or not, I only noticed the shoulders. This MTM process has been a huge learning experience, for sure.
post #35478 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post

I don't see a half-canvas option, but I'll email Aaron to see if it's available.

Half canvas vs full canvass will have zero effect in the wearability of the jacket in heat. I have three summer fabric (Fresco, specifically) suits from KW and the standard full canvass option worked fine...and I was in the Middle East when I bought them. The suggestion that going to half canvass (in which the bottom half if the jacket would instead be fused) would be more wearable in heat is incorrect.
post #35479 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post

I'm going with no shoulder padding (probably with spalla camicia), one way or the other. My favorite SuSu jackets don't have any padding, and I have a good build for the natural-shoulder look.

Even more of a reason not to go with standard full canvas. I think that completely natural/unpadded shoulders might look a bit incongruous with standard canvassing. At least in theory, anyway. In practicality, in may very well be just fine. I don't think I've seen a KW jacket with this particular configuration. Would like to, though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jssdc View Post

Half canvas vs full canvass will have zero effect in the wearability of the jacket in heat. I have three summer fabric (Fresco, specifically) suits from KW and the standard full canvass option worked fine...and I was in the Middle East when I bought them. The suggestion that going to half canvass (in which the bottom half if the jacket would instead be fused) would be more wearable in heat is incorrect.

I agree with you, but it's a moot point, as KW doesn't offer a half canvas option anyway. Lining (full vs. half) should make somewhat of a difference, though.
post #35480 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by llamaone View Post

Even more of a reason not to go with standard full canvas. I think that completely natural/unpadded shoulders might look a bit incongruous with standard canvassing. At least in theory, anyway. In practicality, in may very well be just fine. I don't think I've seen a KW jacket with this particular configuration. Would like to, though.

This is just not correct. There's no incongruity whatsoever between natural shoulders and full canvas.
post #35481 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post

My work environment is very casual. I'm the only person who wears a jacket to work, so I'm rarely in a situation where an unstructured suit would be considered too casual. I considered the soft canvas but multiple posters, including Kent Wang, have said that they're not fond of that option.

My biggest problem is that I have no frame of reference for either style. Every jacket I currently have is either fused (and going to be donated/given to friends) or half canvas.

If you are going for a suit and a linen wool blend as opposed to linen, I would not go with unstructured. If you are going to go with something unstructured, you might as well go full linen too as the wrinkles don't matter if you're not wearing something that could be seen as formal. The advantage of a canvassed (vs. unstructured) wool linen suit is that it can passably serve a more formal purpose when necessary, even if it doesn't have to. If you go unstructured (either linen or blend), you have something fun to wear more casually but it really doesn't work in a more formal setting. If you have a small wardrobe of tailored clothing, versatility is key. I can think of a lot of good casual looks for someone who doesn't have to dress up often; the few suits you have should be able to fill the more formal role when needed.

Half canvas and full canvas are much closer to each other than half canvas is to unstructured. If you know how a half canvassed suit feels, you have an idea of how a fully canvassed suit will feel. Obviously there are differences, but it's not like you're going to be unprepared for what a fully canvassed jacket feels like.
post #35482 of 37396

Do you want it to look like a jacket or a cardigan in 12 months time?

post #35483 of 37396
I like this topic.I'm looking to get a tan suit, but dont have access to cotton/linen blends. I do have access to the minnis fresco 2 book, and they have a tan/ yellow in there (104350).

Do you guys think a fresco tan suit is just as appropriate of a summer suit as it would be if i bought a tan cotton linen blend suit?

Has anyone seen the 104350 frsco fabric made into a suit?
post #35484 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post
 

@CaptainTohm  I vote for full canvas + soft shoulder.  

 

This.

post #35485 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrizzy View Post

I like this topic.I'm looking to get a tan suit, but dont have access to cotton/linen blends. I do have access to the minnis fresco 2 book, and they have a tan/ yellow in there (104350).

Do you guys think a fresco tan suit is just as appropriate of a summer suit as it would be if i bought a tan cotton linen blend suit?

Has anyone seen the 104350 frsco fabric made into a suit?

Fresco and linen or cotton are about as far apart as fabrics can be. If you're aiming for a cotton or linen suit, fresco is the wrong direction. (Same color, totally different fabric type and purpose)
post #35486 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

Half canvas and full canvas are much closer to each other than half canvas is to unstructured. If you know how a half canvassed suit feels, you have an idea of how a fully canvassed suit will feel. Obviously there are differences, but it's not like you're going to be unprepared for what a fully canvassed jacket feels like.

 

Exactly right. A fully canvassed suit (or, more properly, a suit with floating, as opposed to fused, canvassing) might feel a bit more flexible than a half-canvassed suit but it's still going to have structure, because of the presence of the canvas and the other fabric used to form the chestpieces in the jacket. I've got suits that are half-canvassed and suits with fully-floating canvassing, including ones where the majority of the stitching in the jacket is by hand, and they still have shape and structure.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post
 

Do you want it to look like a jacket or a cardigan in 12 months time?

 

This is the risk with an unstructured jacket. I had an odd jacket a while back that was totally unstructured - unlined, un-canvassed, and with no padding in the shoulders. All it had was some so-called "French facing" inside the front of the jacket - some self-lining to allow a couple of inside pockets.

 

It was wonderfully light - it hardly felt like I was wearing a jacket when I put it on - but I discovered that I actually prefer the structure of some canvassing in the chest. Without it, the jacket flapped around and it really was, as sebastian mcfox mentioned, like a cardigan. I ended up giving it to charity as I hardly ever wore it.

post #35487 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrizzy View Post

I like this topic.I'm looking to get a tan suit, but dont have access to cotton/linen blends. I do have access to the minnis fresco 2 book, and they have a tan/ yellow in there (104350).

Do you guys think a fresco tan suit is just as appropriate of a summer suit as it would be if i bought a tan cotton linen blend suit?

Has anyone seen the 104350 frsco fabric made into a suit?

If you want a tan Fresco suit, go for it, but it's not going to fill the same role as a linen or linen cotton suit. Fresco is on the more formal end for summer cloth, while the color is more casual. Some might even call it an incongruity.
post #35488 of 37396
 
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

Some might even call it an incongruity.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/380110/fresco-suit-battle-tobacco-brown-vs-wheat-tan/0_50

post #35489 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

This is just not correct. There's no incongruity whatsoever between natural shoulders and full canvas.

Fair enough. My thinking--and this is mainly in regard specifically to KW suits--was that a completely unstructured shoulder would call for a similarly relaxed, soft construction throughout the chest and quarters. Hence my suggestion that the soft canvas (note: still full canvas, just a thinner piece of canvas) or unstructured might be the better option to go along with unpadded shoulders. Is this not at least somewhat logical in theory? shog[1].gif

But having never owned a truly unpadded (natural shoulders) jacket, I did acknowledge that it might be totally fine in practicality. I'm probably just overthinking it.
post #35490 of 37396

Exact thread I had in mind.
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