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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2349

post #35221 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmeyer View Post


Technically, I could still return the brown. I probably won't, but I could. A range makes sense; all my other jackets are a bit too short, so while I may have overshot it's more a matter of getting used to it, like you said. The pics help.
Word.
 

 

That might be part of the issue if your other jackets are too short. You'll need to get used to something that is noticeably longer, and I'm sure you will.

 

Making strong recommendations about jacket length from a photo is tricky, given possible image distortions and people's different principles. The number of times people on SF make this judgment based on a torso shot...hmmmm. 

 

For me, the "principles" of length are: (a) cover (at least almost all of) the seat; (b) pleasingly divide the top and bottom (visually lengthen leg while maintaining "solidity" above) and (c) balance the hem line wrt the hand. But aside from (a), everything will be relative to one's aesthetic as well as the style of jacket, the feel of fabric, seasonality etc. That's why I think there's a range for each individual, not some hard value.  

 

In the future, I'd just stand a good distance from a full length vertical mirror and ask yourself if the position of the jacket hem is aesthetically pleasing to you and, of course, to your wife. Then tell any dissenters to, well you know...

 

back when I was learning my way (Click to show)
For fun: My first attempt at a substantive SF thread (with usual bloviation):
 
post #35222 of 37396

Need some of that GNA. Regarding odd jackets, I have the basics covered so I don't necessarily need versatility out of future kops. Looking at a Boglioli that measures perfectly and I like the fabric but of course it's the StyFo dreaded gray odd jacket. Do any of you have a similar coat you get regular wear out of? 

 

post #35223 of 37396

If you think it will look good, then get it. Grey solids are what most people try to avoid, and for good reason. 

 

Grey plaid can be quite nice (see @emptym 's (b/w glenplaid) in the 10/5 thread which is a stronger, bold pattern).

post #35224 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post


I've never owned a full-linen piece before, but I do have a wool-linen jacket that I like. I asked to see the blends because I figured they would be less to a pain to take care of, but maybe I'm overthinking how much linen wrinkles.

I posted some open weave wool fabrics earlier and the general response was that I was wasting a perfectly good excuse to get a linen or linen-blend.

@Caustic Man The year I actually go to the Derby is the year I buy a seersucker. This is not that year.

You're not...unless you go pretty heavy.

post #35225 of 37396

@WillingToLearn ironic timing, as @venividivicibj just recently got (or at least posted about) a wool/mohair suit to similar specs.

 

I'm all in on the mohair fanboy crowd. I don't think there's a sexier (or more resilient) fabric out there. 

post #35226 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

If you think it will look good, then get it. Grey solids are what most people try to avoid, and for good reason. 

Grey plaid can be quite nice (see @emptym
 's (b/w glenplaid) in the 10/5 thread which is a stronger, bold pattern).
Thank you, his is nice but resolves to a lighter gray I think. In any case your words may have pushed me past the line of koppage
post #35227 of 37396

If you're worried about linen wrinkling/being informal, you probably shouldn't be getting linen. Have to be willing to embrace it (or at least not be constrained by the informality of it)

post #35228 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by dazedstate View Post
 

Need some of that GNA. Regarding odd jackets, I have the basics covered so I don't necessarily need versatility out of future kops. Looking at a Boglioli that measures perfectly and I like the fabric but of course it's the StyFo dreaded gray odd jacket. Do any of you have a similar coat you get regular wear out of? 

 

Glenplaid/POW/Glencheck etc are traditionally used as suiting fabrics and can fall into that 'suit being used as an odd jacket' look

 

there are exceptions - but the check should be a bigger scale, or have some more casual factors (colorful windowpane, etc) (emptym seem below - breanish tweed)

 

or

 

post #35229 of 37396

I was thinking something similar. Wrinkled linen is part of its nonchalant charm. With respect to Clag's look pictured above, it's all too "perfect" for linen. Especially the pressed shirt. 

post #35230 of 37396

^^ I agree and disagree. I LOVE linen, though I'm a bit too neurotic to love/appreciate it...it's probably something I more grudgingly accept. I can say I don't think I'd be comfortable at all going pure linen below 10 oz.

post #35231 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

I was thinking something similar. Wrinkled linen is part of its nonchalant charm. With respect to Clag's look pictured above, it's all too "perfect" for linen. Especially the pressed shirt. 

@Claghorn can speak better to this, but I believe it's a wool / linen blend (Kerry Knoll if I recall correctly), so a bit more of a pressed look isn't necessarily a bad thing. I put wool / linen blends in a slightly different category from pure linen.
post #35232 of 37396

Fair enough, but whether it's a blend or not it still has the same effect on me when I look at it. 

post #35233 of 37396

@venividivicibjMakes sense. Probably too small scaled? It does look a bit fashion forward in that sense. 

post #35234 of 37396
I personally love the above picture of Clags, which is perhaps a sign that my sense of style is a bit too stuffy for a full linen.

I was thinking by the end of the day I'd have a fabric picked out. Instead, I'm contemplating a linen blend, I asked Aaron to send me some photos of pure linen options, and I'm also revisiting the hopsack swatch I was originally looking at.

I just got menswear'd.
post #35235 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post

I personally love the above picture of Clags, which is perhaps a sign that my sense of style is a bit too stuffy for a full linen.

I was thinking by the end of the day I'd have a fabric picked out. Instead, I'm contemplating a linen blend, I asked Aaron to send me some photos of pure linen options, and I'm also revisiting the hopsack swatch I was originally looking at.
 

You can have linen (usually irish linen) that doesnt exhibit the color variegation of the two that were posted (due to different dying techniques I think). Irish linen also tends to be heavier than the italian counterparts which would tend to 'rumple' rather than crease and wrinkle.

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