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post #34426 of 37408


Or

post #34427 of 37408
Thread Starter 

First. Clearly. More versatile.

 

@GuP

post #34428 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs77 View Post


If your jacket size iz 46, then it is normal.


Granted. And obviously proportion matters. However 46 is significantly larger than average. Larger than average lapels would not look out of place. As for someone who wears a 38, 4.25 does not look good. That, of course, is a personal opinion. FWIW, I wear between a 40 and a 42 (U.S.). 3.75 would be my max. And, back to the original question, would look optimal on Tohm IMO.

post #34429 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post


Granted. And obviously proportion matters. However 46 is significantly larger than average. Larger than average lapels would not look out of place. As for someone who wears a 38, 4.25 does not look good. That, of course, is a personal opinion. FWIW, I wear between a 40 and a 42 (U.S.). 3.75 would be my max. And, back to the original question, would look optimal on Tohm IMO.

46 is pretty normal if you're from Serbia, and in Long size, of course :-)

I do d that lapel appearance has a lot to do with shape (convex vs concave), button placements, shoulder shape and construction etc. It really is the part of jacket I find most prone to visual tricks, so it is hard to say one width works best for one jacket size...

What I find strange is that all (known to me) RTW makers put one width no matter the jacket size. Is this correct observation?
post #34430 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post

I'd prefer a 3.75" or 4" for my build, but I think either the 3.5" or 4.25" will work just fine. I'll probably ask Aaron (dear Christ, he's going to be sick of me) what his opinion is. I know Clags said he'll only go 3.5" from now on, but I believe I'm notably larger than him.
Your words of caution are certainly heard though, Caustic.

 

 

The only lapels I don't have, or like,  are super-skinny ones.   Imo, width of lapel is less driven by fashion (e.g. those crazy aircraft runways favored by Nutter or early RL) than by personal taste.   I  think of it as a bit like pleat or no-pleat, cuff or no-cuff i.e. largely a matter of personal preference unconnected with trends.

 

I've just been flicking thru Dressing the Man,  and if Flusser's pics are representative, lapel real estate is if anything remarkably consistent from the '30s to the '90s.  Doesn't vary as nearly as much, and is less cyclical than buttoning points or gorge placement.  At a guess, I'd say the average for SB is 3"-5" and for DB 4"-6".

 

Having said that, the lapels on my last couple of jackets have been pitched at the mean.  It's about being proportionate too, as u say.

 

 In top pic just too wide for Foo's shoulders imo  Bottom looks great.

 

 

 

 

 

4.25"  ^^^^^             3.5"  ^^^^^^


Edited by Pliny - 2/19/16 at 7:17pm
post #34431 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs77 View Post


46 is pretty normal if you're from Serbia

 

lol Funny you should say that. I've been to Serbia and you are right. Of course, it doesn't help that they consistently wear oversized jackets!

post #34432 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

lol Funny you should say that. I've been to Serbia and you are right. Of course, it doesn't help that they consistently wear oversized jackets!

Hahaha. When have you been? I am myself now expat in Canada.

It seams lately even we embrased the fashion of wearing jackets at least one size smaller :-)
post #34433 of 37408
If I see another pair of suede on this forum, I am gonna go to McDonald's and have a whopper!
post #34434 of 37408
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post


The only lapels I don't have, or like,  are super-skinny ones.   Imo, width of lapel is less driven by fashion (e.g. those crazy aircraft runways favored by Nutter or early RL) than by personal taste.   I  think of it as a bit like pleat or no-pleat, cuff or no-cuff i.e. largely a matter of personal preference unconnected with trends.

I've just been flicking thru Dressing the Man,  and if Flusser's pics are representative, lapel real estate is if anything remarkably consistent from the '30s to the '90s.  Doesn't vary as nearly as much, and is less cyclical than buttoning points or gorge placement.  At a guess, I'd say the average for SB is 3"-5" and for DB 4"-6".

Having said that, the lapels on my last couple of jackets have been pitched at the mean.  It's about being proportionate too, as u say.

 In top pic just too wide for Foo's shoulders imo  Bottom looks great.








4.25"  ^^^^^




3.5"  ^^^^^^

See, in these pictures of Pliny (not Foo) I'd say he looks more proportional with the wider lapels, and he wears a size smaller than I do (40 vs 42). Although, it also appears he has more sloping shoulders compared to my very-square, according to Proper Cloth, shoulders.

Ah, decisions. I should just forget paying any bills and buy two suits, one with each lapel width.
post #34435 of 37408
What is the word on Carlos Santos shoes in terms of quality?
post #34436 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

If I see another pair of suede on this forum, I am gonna go to McDonald's and have a whopper!

I am actively hunting for suede chukkas peepwall[1].gif
post #34437 of 37408
Loake Kempton or CJ Tetbury gogo join us!
post #34438 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs77 View Post


Hahaha. When have you been? I am myself now expat in Canada.

It seams lately even we embrased the fashion of wearing jackets at least one size smaller :-)


Way back in 2009. I was in the southwest, just small rural towns as well as several places in Kosovo and Macedonia. Loved my time there but Balkans people have a funny sense of style. Which is perfectly ok because they have foods like Ajver. I still eat that on toast to this day.

post #34439 of 37408

Congrats on your move to Canada BTW.

post #34440 of 37408


Yea or nay?
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