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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2264

post #33946 of 37412

Immediately brought this to mind:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cao Cao View Post

Now that's terrible @Claghorn.
Who works at GAP dressed like that?!
If it was at NM, that wud have been ok cus that's what happened to me. Lol

I told this story before but I once was walking out of a Thai restaurant with my coworkers and this white lady asked ME where the restroom was. Then she said, "Oh, I thut you worked here."

Another time, a coworker came up to me and asked if I knew a good Chinese restaurant. (I am not even Chinese).
post #33947 of 37412
AhahahahHHHAa!
post #33948 of 37412
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

I was at GAP yesterday looking for chinos for Mrs.C's classroom observation (over the next year, we'll be building her "teacher" wardrobe).

Anyway, someone thought I worked there. :-(

For the record, I was wearing:


I would at least assume you were the shift leader :P

post #33949 of 37412

I have been invited to a wedding in March. Dress is black tie so I'm thinking of indulging by commissioning a dinner jacket from BnT.

 

There are other gaps in my wardrobe and the cost-to-wear ratio is off, but I'm rationalising the decision by convincing myself that a well made dinner jacket, worn occasionally, should last a long time...

 

Anyway, I'm trying to nail down the details before my consultation tomorrow. The biggest sticking point is lapel type; I'm attracted to both peak and shawl although the latter doesn't seem very popular around here. @gdl203 's not a fan. @voxsartoria warns there is a greater risk of a tailor making an ugly shawl lapel. I'm still unclear which is more 'formal'. 

 

As for the rest:

 

Single breasted, one button, side vents, natural shoulder

Midnight blue 9oz barathea

Black grosgrain lapel facings, covered buttons

Jetted hip pockets (welts in self fabric) 

Flat front trousers, suspender buttons, grosgrain facings

 

 

Any advice? 

post #33950 of 37412
Go for satin or shantung lapels. Black tie is not the time to be shy with subtle lapel facing. Embrace the festive nature of that garment. Please don't put two vents in there frown.gif
post #33951 of 37412


^ If the wedding's in March, do you think that you'll have sufficient time left before the wedding for the suit to be made?

 

I'm not sure what BnTailor's lead time is, but I do know that they prefer to take measurements, have a basted fitting, make adjustments, and send the completed suit back to you, and presumably all of that can be quite time consuming, so make sure that you've got sufficient time left before the wedding to have the suit completed, with a margin of error built in, too.

 

I know quite a few people who have had dinner suits made up by MTO or bespoke tailors and I must admit that I feel a bit conflicted about the idea (although, of course, it's got nothing to do with me).

 

On the one hand, decent, classic dinner suits are pretty rare so if you want a nice dinner suit, then it may sometimes be easier to go the MTO option.

 

On the other hand, the vast majority of people are going to wear a dinner 1-2 times a year at most, so you're spending a lot of money on something that hardly gets worn that could otherwise be put towards, say, a classic navy or charcoal suit that will be worn 30-40 times a year.

 

Anyway, for what it's worth, I'm a big fan of shawl lapel. To me, it looks more reserved and classic, and less showy. Make sure it's not too narrow.

post #33952 of 37412
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Go for satin or shantung lapels. Black tie is not the time to be shy with subtle lapel facing. Embrace the festive nature of that garment. Please don't put two vents in there frown.gif

 

Agree on the satin lapels - definitely satin.

 

I didn't notice the mention of vents. Yes, as Greg says, please don't go with vents. A dinner jacket is typically unvented and a good tailor will be able to cut the jacket so it sits well, despite the lack of vents.

post #33953 of 37412
Sebastian, I'm going to agree with the others on no vents. Whether you do shawl or peak is entirely up to you. Peak is more formal, but when you're already in black tie, I don't think you have to worry too much about this. I went shawl for my dinner jacket (of course, I also went with black) and took satin lapels. Nothing wrong with grosgrain, though. If I had two dinner jackets, I would probably do SB peak and DB shawl. Perhaps this is an argument for going with peak?
post #33954 of 37412

Ok, satin facings it is.

 

I was under the impression that side vents were perfectly acceptable - is this not the case? I find ventless jackets really uncomfortable (although, to be fair, I've never worn a bespoke ventless jacket..). FWIW the decision to go with vents was based on the NMWA Formosa dinner jacket - but I guess vents are a safer option when buying OTR?

 

I'll discuss timing tomorrow, but BnT already have my pattern and fit dialled in so this should just require one fitting (and wedding is end of March)

 

I'm leaning towards shawl lapels. I wonder if much of the opposition to them on SF is because bad OTR examples are legion..

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

Peak is more formal, 
 

Strange, the Black Tie Guide says shawl lapels are more formal (hence my confusion) :eh:

post #33955 of 37412
Different vibes. Peak is more rakish/Gatsby tux whereas shawl is more loungy/louche tux
post #33956 of 37412
Side vents with a dinner jacket are not the worst sartorial sin out there, but a lot of people do consider them at least suboptimal. They're a far lesser evil than a single vent, though.
post #33957 of 37412

I wondered if the text for the Formosa tux was a typo or not. So it doesn't have dual vents? (Doesn't look like it from the interior photo, but ...)

post #33958 of 37412
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post

Strange, the Black Tie Guide says shawl lapels are more formal (hence my confusion) eh.gif

Well, peak lapels are reminiscent of tailcoats. Shawl lapels are reminiscent of smoking jackets. Think Bogie's white dinner jacket in Casablanca.
post #33959 of 37412
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post

I wondered if the text for the Formosa tux was a typo or not. So it doesn't have dual vents? (Doesn't look like it from the interior photo, but ...)

That's def a typo

post #33960 of 37412

Good to know. Ventless it is. 

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