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How Should I Start My Business Wardrobe?
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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2257post #33842 of 376722/2/16 at 9:14ampost #33843 of 376722/2/16 at 9:17ampost #33844 of 376722/2/16 at 9:17ampost #33845 of 376722/2/16 at 9:18ampost #33846 of 376722/2/16 at 9:20am
I truly have no good reason, though perhaps it is more a preference for "normal" leather shoes than a dislike for suede.
My best guess is that part of me, from previous ownership of suede shoes, considers suede to be cheaper (quality wise) than other dress shoes, which leaves me incapable of spending an equal amount on them...post #33847 of 376722/2/16 at 9:30ampost #33848 of 376722/2/16 at 9:37ampost #33849 of 376722/2/16 at 10:21amWarning: Spoiler! (Click to show)Quote:this is quite helpful, but frankly, I don't even really know what a fresco is, so I'm looking for something that will tell me about different suiting weaves and weights.Originally Posted by IsolationQuote:Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)I had a question of my own: I'm looking fir a pretty basic tutorial on suiting and jacketing wool. What weights for what seasons. Worsted vs woolens. That sort of stuff. Did a little searching on the site and google, but it was hard because I wasn't even sure whT I was looking for. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd be grateful.What specific questions? There are much more knowledgeable people than me, but I lurk the unfunded liabilities thread so I can point you to some things.[/SPOILER]
Basically the iGent thing is flannel for winter, fresco for s/s (Manton made a list of 10 suits where 5 is flannel 5 is fresco and there's nothing in between lol), nobody likes shiny worsteds and supers even though in practice that's what most people in the real world wear (I guess that's not fair you guys like sharkskin too, and I don't so much). With books, I'm most familiar with Dugdale, and their English and Town Classics is seen as the best value evar, and their New Fine Worsted is like a cheaper solid version of fresco, and they have everything on their site so you can have a look.
Fresco/NFW and similar is generally 8-9oz, probably would be sweating a bit in the dead of summer, but about as light as it gets, and some people think if you are in a hot place or wear an overcoat, can work as 3 or 4 season suiting.
People prefer woolen to worsted flannel, but it sounds like worsted is a tad more practical, just doesn't feel as nice. You'd want worsted flannel for lighter weights because woolen ones don't have as much durability especially at lower weights. That's the main reason why you're most likely to end up with worsted woolens unless you have a very large wardrobe. Most flannels probably go from like 11-15oz, unless you approach coating material. Minnis and Fox is one of the more popular ones, I've used Fox mostly. Dugdale has a bunch of worsted woolens in the ETC book, and I like them a lot, and again it's seen as a very popular book.
Other than that, mohair and mohair blends are good summer suiting. Again Dugdale has a mohair book that's really good. They are more durable and stronger, in the past usually quite shiny but nowadays they have more matted looks too. In practice wears quite a bit like fresco tbh. Haven't worn enough to tell difference as it's been winter. Think probably wrinkles less.
I'm a big fan of matted fabrics so I do think that mostly focusing on Flannels and Frescos (of various weights perhaps) for seasonality is good. I'd probably put more emphasis on Frescos as there are more months of the year you can wear fresco than flannels. Like I said you can wear fresco for the entire year, there's indoor heating and overcoats anyway, seriously most people won't bat an eye. I'm sure if you want to make your wardrobe mostly fresco with some worsted woolens it'd be the most versatile, as opposed to having strict suits that's only wearable a few months of the year.
others correct me if I am wrong obv, iso is noobQuote:Originally Posted by vidyutQuote:Originally Posted by Koala-T
@vidyut, there are people a lot more experienced here than me that will give you much better feedback, but for what it's worth:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)I'd drop the idea of a 3 piece if you don't plan on wearing a tie.
Suspenders are good. Stick with that.
As far as brand and vAlue proposition, I'd go Kent Wang MTM with Suit Supply as a second choice. KW offer great construction and materials, with an eye toward modern style and great quality at a very reasonable price. And you can get your whole kit there from suits to ahirts, ties, squares, suspenders, aocks, and shoes, if you are so inclined. They are an online mtm shop, but have great feedback, and if their standard sizes fit you well off the rack, no need to go mtm.
Hope this helps, and good luck on your new venture!
Thank you Koala-T, appreciate the input. Why Kent Wang over, say, SuitSupply? I can sort of see why KW over say Michael Amdrews Bespoke (a lot less pretentious and just less BS), but in what ways is KW better than their peers?
I think that for the money, KW is better than the full canvas options at suit supply:
1) because you have various construction options at your fingertips: regular canvas? Light canvas? Unconstructed? Wide lapel or regular or slim? Various shoulder padding configurations.
2) you have more fabrics to chose from and you get to determine the cut
3) you get all of that mtm, rather than buying off the rack and then tailoring.
Edited by Koala-T - 2/2/16 at 1:42pmpost #33850 of 376722/2/16 at 10:33ampost #33851 of 376722/2/16 at 10:34ampost #33852 of 376722/2/16 at 10:42amhmmm maybe I should get a KW OTR over that SuSu. Any comparison in KW fit vs SuSu Havana?
Same pricepoint.post #33853 of 376722/2/16 at 10:48ampost #33854 of 376722/2/16 at 11:03ampost #33855 of 376722/2/16 at 11:28amQuote:Originally Posted by GuP
hmmm maybe I should get a KW OTR over that SuSu. Any comparison in KW fit vs SuSu Havana?
I own SS and suits made from the same factory as KW, and I would buy KW 100x over--especially if it's at or remotely near the same price point. His suits are full-canvassed, the construction is more robust, and the fabric selection is great. Also, if you go MTM you can choose stylistic details.
I have a feeling that SS gets discount proprietary fabrics from brand name mills so they can use them for marketing purposes (and it works).
My next jacket will probably be from KW. I just wish he did more OTR stuff in staple fabrics. I don't know anyone on this site who would choose SS over his products.Quote:
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