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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2256

post #33826 of 37405
Thread Starter 
Ed's selling scarves at half off

http://www.styleforum.net/t/517415/panta-wool-silk-scarves-50-off
post #33827 of 37405
^ Great scarves. I have the dark brown/blue. Highly recommended.
post #33828 of 37405

Ed is great and the scarves are great and i would have bought one, maybe  two but alas it is too short for my tastes - the minimum length of scarf for me is 72 inches  and i strongly prefer 74+ inch in length.

post #33829 of 37405
Veni, a loud no to that brown seaweed.
post #33830 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by Koala-T View Post

@vidyut, there are people a lot more experienced here than me that will give you much better feedback, but for what it's worth:

I'd drop the idea of a 3 piece if you don't plan on wearing a tie.

Suspenders are good. Stick with that.

As far as brand and vAlue proposition, I'd go Kent Wang MTM with Suit Supply as a second choice. KW offer great construction and materials, with an eye toward modern style and great quality at a very reasonable price. And you can get your whole kit there from suits to ahirts, ties, squares, suspenders, aocks, and shoes, if you are so inclined. They are an online mtm shop, but have great feedback, and if their standard sizes fit you well off the rack, no need to go mtm.

Hope this helps, and good luck on your new venture!

Thank you Koala-T, appreciate the input. Why Kent Wang over, say, SuitSupply? I can sort of see why KW over say Michael Amdrews Bespoke (a lot less pretentious and just less BS), but in what ways is KW better than their peers?
post #33831 of 37405

Kent Wang is probably a price/quality tier over suit supply, and I imagine he brought it up because you were showing interest in spending more per suit. For the its price tier, suit supply is a very solid choice. Kent Wang is also one of the preferred brands of its price bracket on styleforum. Also, if you do not plan on wearing a tie, you might consider wearing odd jackets and trousers instead of suits instead or as well.

post #33832 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post

Thanks for the reply.    smile.gif

I guess I didn't make myself clear.  I'm aware of the seasonal association of linen and linen blends.  My question, rather, was about the seasonal associations, if any, of the herringbone pattern regardless of the cloth.

Cheers,

Ac

Then the answer is no: herringbone is not especially associated with any seasons, except perhaps that it's unusual in the summer, because it runs hotter than plain weave. That said, there are plenty of pure linen herringbones that are perfectly comfortable in the summer. Pure linen is very different in wearing properties than many linen blends.
post #33833 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by dazedstate View Post

Great thank you. The shirt seems a bit more city rather than country to me. Agreed? Probably no good with tweed OJT but great with dressed down suits.

It's definitely not as country as a tattersall, but I think it'd look fine with a number of brown tweeds, as CaoCao's shirt, which has stripes of a lighter blue and a cutaway collar, would not. I agree with Murl that your shirt would go very well with brown flannel. It's a shirt for dressy suburban or casual-suit city applications. CaoCao's is for city dressy.
post #33834 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by vidyut View Post

Pasting this here on the advice of TM79 (original thread here). Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Thank you all in advance for your advice.


After about 9 years working for a large hedge fund, I quit my job last year to start something of my own. I had to sit out a year for some legal reasons (with my former employer) and that year is due to end in a couple months (I'll be able to start work in Apr).

I am looking to create a "consistent" dressing format for me. At my previous place, my consistent clothing was dark wool slacks and a white (Banana Republic Tailored Slim Fit, size M - fit me very well except perhaps the sleeves could be 0.25-0.5 in shorter than they were). It worked for me and I did not have time to spend on choosing clothes - so I would simply go online and buy a bunch of shirts or slacks at a time, wear them till they would start losing the "new" feel and then repeat.

Right now I have time to think - I won't once I start working again. So I am thinking of changing over to wearing a suit every day. My preferences are:

Preferences
0. Once I am wearing what I am wearing, I need it to recede in the background. When I am working I do not want to be adjusting my suspender/belt, worrying about whether my shirt is slipping out or not, whether I am sitting on my pants right or not - nothing of the sort. I prefer not wearing a tie. I own a few Ascot ties that I have worn (inside open collars) on occasion with suits. I find closed collars uncomfortable, but maybe I just have been doing something wrong.

1. I need to be able to dress for work without thinking too much about what I am wearing. Whatever I go with, I will plan to set up a rotation and follow it blindly (unless there are special occasions).

2. It needs to look good - it needs to fit me well. I will much prefer sticking to slacks-and-shirt that work well rather than an ill-fitting suit. I don't care for branding at all, I do care for quality.

3. It should be good value for money. The fact that I can afford fairly high end stuff doesn't translate to me actually spending on it. I am not brand conscious at all.

Build
I am 5ft10in, and I weigh in at 180lbs. I have muscular shoulders, and a bit of belly/love-handle fat (usually choose a size 30 to 32 in trousers, but I realize that my actual waistsize in inches is perhaps higher because of the way trousers are marked) that I am working to get rid of. I usually fit in a 38R suit. I stand and sit tall, and I tend to move fairly actively (even though my day involves a lot of work on the computer, I walk around and move a lot - I do a fair bit of my work standing).

Tentative plan
1. Three piece suits. Primarily to (1) avoid having to worry about the shirt coming slightly untucked at the waist (2) hide suspenders out of view (see below). But also to look a bit different and dressier than usual. I am happy to abandon this idea (and stick to more conventional two piece suits) if my assumptions are incorrect.

2. Suspenders rather than belts - again with a view to not have the shirt pinched in at the waist.

3. 5 suits to start with and depending on what works buy 5-10 more over the year. I own 3 suits right now - two from Zegna and one from Hugo Boss. They were all bought on heavy discount from either Saks Fifth Ave or Bloomingdales. I don't think any of them was more than USD2k, all in price. None of them get much use. I like the fit of the Zegna suits much better than the Hugo Boss suit, and so the latter has perhaps been work exactly once. I am not going to count these suits - for that reason.

4. I don't want to spend more than around USD1.5K per suit - including perhaps an extra pair of trousers. I need to know that I am getting good value for my money.

I request your suggestions!
1. What are your thoughts about my plan above? Does it sound insane to the extent that I should simply stick to my usual slacks-and-shirt? Indeed that is what most people in the industry wear.

2. In case the plan makes sense, does my budget make sense? What is a reasonable budget for an everyday suit?

3. Where should I get the initial 5 suits from? I am lucky in that I live in NYC - practically everyone has a shop here that I can easily visit. I have spent the last day researching various varieties of bespoke/made-to-measure/etc. options on the internet and the short summary of what I have been able to learn is that it is a competitive and dirty industry (and the fact that the work starts only after you give up the money doesn't bode well for the experience, in my view). On the one hand everyone touts Martin Greenfield - they seem to run an assembly line operation and still charge fairly expensive prices. I am happy to buy off-the-rack suits if they have long-term quality and fit well. I tend to think I am a very conventional body type and fit easily, but I might be completely off about how the suits I have already really fit.
I would much prefer a no-BS small no-name shop - OTR or tailor - that fits me well than a more highbrow concern where I would worry about being ripped off.

A couple times, you mentioned doing things to prevent dress shirt pinching and other things like this.

If that's the case, would you consider spending a little less per suit and working some made-to-measure dress shirts into what you're planning on getting yourself?

Eidos is a brand that gets a lot of love on this site (for good reason, I think). Bloomingdales carries them and they have some great final sales around this time last year. You may want to look into that and see how those fit you. I think most of their suits retail around 1.5k but the sales last year had some of these suits selling for around $500.

Another NYC tailor I've seen mentioned on here is Ercole, which has a location on Madison Ave. and then out in Brooklyn. They have a website so you could call them up and ask about pricing, although I suspect it'll be near the top of your price range or maybe even a little above. They do MTM shirts, too.

David Reeves is on this site and located in NYC but I think his pricing is much higher for jackets and suits. You could look into him for MTM shirts, too, though.
post #33835 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

Kent Wang is probably a price/quality tier over suit supply, and I imagine he brought it up because you were showing interest in spending more per suit. For the its price tier, suit supply is a very solid choice. Kent Wang is also one of the preferred brands of its price bracket on styleforum. Also, if you do not plan on wearing a tie, you might consider wearing odd jackets and trousers instead of suits instead or as well.

I see. I'm finding prices quite similar for comparable lines (LaSpalla/Jort), hence the question. It seems like StyleForum view would be that a UsD1k KW suit is better than a USD1k SuitSupply suit - which is valuable to know. Am I correct in inferring that for the same price KW will be better quality.
post #33836 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs77 View Post

That Havana SC is very versatile, has a true navy (dark) color, while Lazio suit is more blue, and I don't think it will work well as SC. I don't like it's color.

I liked the dark color as well. Have a blue suit already.
post #33837 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

Kent Wang is probably a price/quality tier over suit supply, and I imagine he brought it up because you were showing interest in spending more per suit. For the its price tier, suit supply is a very solid choice. Kent Wang is also one of the preferred brands of its price bracket on styleforum. Also, if you do not plan on wearing a tie, you might consider wearing odd jackets and trousers instead of suits instead or as well.

Ditto to odd jackets and trousers. I work in an environment where I can wear scrubs all day and I do just b/c they are super comfy and require no thinking. I am thinking of mixing it up here and there with odd jackets and trousers/chinos.
post #33838 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by Testudo_Aubreii View Post



It's definitely not as country as a tattersall, but I think it'd look fine with a number of brown tweeds, as CaoCao's shirt, which has stripes of a lighter blue and a cutaway collar, would not. I agree with Murl that your shirt would go very well with brown flannel. It's a shirt for dressy suburban or casual-suit city applications. CaoCao's is for city dressy.

 



Like this?
post #33839 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cao Cao View Post

Veni, a loud no to that brown seaweed.

: (

post #33840 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

: (
Many in StyFo seem to like bicolor knits. If you like it, doooo iiiiit
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