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post #33616 of 37536
Re chinos, I use Spoke (spoke-london.com). Good quality and great fit
post #33617 of 37536
Iso, I'm late to the party, but the tweed SB is too short and probably too tight at the waist. There isn't just pulling at the button, there's bunching at the hip.

Your DB pics are pretty much useless for assessing the length of the jackets. Robopose, camera a decent distance away, between waist and chest high. As for the other examples you posted, any pro shoot pictures are likely pinned/clipped at the back to make the jackets form-fitting in an unrealistic way.

Slewfoot's SB three piece doesn't look to be pulling at the button, more like folding over at the button. The DB pulls a bit, but that is apparently intentional by some makers. I think gdl is advocate of the DB pull.
post #33618 of 37536
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post



This dude is just skin and bones. Not good. Not good at all.
post #33619 of 37536

in before - you should lift bro

post #33620 of 37536
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

in before - you should lift bro

Or just eat a burger once in a while.
post #33621 of 37536
Quote:
Originally Posted by Veremund View Post


This dude is just skin and bones. Not good. Not good at all.


photoshop

post #33622 of 37536
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post


photoshop

I hope so, for his health's sake.
post #33623 of 37536
One of my roomies & friend in college was like that … 6' 2", 150 lbs. soaking wet. And yeah he ate like a goddamn garbage truck, lifted weights and couldn't put on an ounce.
post #33624 of 37536
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kid Nickels View Post

One of my roomies & friend in college was like that … 6' 2", 150 lbs. soaking wet. And yeah he ate like a goddamn garbage truck, lifted weights and couldn't put on an ounce.


At the age of 28, I was 6' tall and about 145lb. I ate voraciously too.

 

Then I started to lift.

 

Then I got married.

 

Now I'm 5' 11" and weigh 170lb. I wish it were all muscle, that extra, but alas it isn't. I think my stomach bones are bigger though.

post #33625 of 37536

Oh, and even later to the party than SB, but Iso, since you're already in London, I guess you should look seriously at Steed. I believe all those Slewfoot pics are of Steed garments. Here's another one, which even better demonstrates how that classic English draped and nipped cut can work:

 


That is form-fitting and relatively waist-suppressed, yet the balance is excellent and there's not one bit of fabric pulling anywhere. OK it's a robopose but I doubt he has the back of the garment clipped.

 

This jacket extends a good 2", maybe even 3" lower than your tweed from a few pages back.

post #33626 of 37536
In essence that one sat around wrist level (ish), while the above sits at a more classic knuckle level. Ish.
post #33627 of 37536
You guys are just jealous of my nice butt and don't want me to show it off.

But in all seriousness I can see it too short now, and will get any future ones longer, and I think maybe lower the buttoning point a tiny bit to accommodate.

I probably do prefer it on the shorter end so probably will just lengthen it by .5-1 inch, sounds reasonable?
post #33628 of 37536

Moleskin is great.

Also nothing like crisp cotton drill. One of my all-time favorite pairs is cotton and it gets a lot of use in summer.

post #33629 of 37536

Guys, since you were so helpful, I thought I'd make another request on something different. What are your thoughts on trenchcoat length? I intend these coats to be worn as overcoats (or over waistcoats/sweaters), and will have varying amounts of bulk underneath them. So I went with the trad route and had my newer ones quite long, but I feel that while practical, the proportions look a bit off. I've included a shorter linen trench as a counter example. I understand that length is a matter of personal preference, but some opinions would help here as I think I could like either, and also something in between.

 

 

 

 

 

 

re winter twill

 

Wouldn't it be better to just get wool/cavalry twill? I have a pair that I haven't worn too much yet but which seems very solid.

 

While I do see some charm in cotton chinos, I feel like it's out weighed by it being cotton. I am thinking of getting a pair of linen/cotton mix from luxire for summer though.

post #33630 of 37536

Try Delfino Grand Tour for moleskin, relatively good value versus the jacketings in that book

Dugdale also has good cottons

and Loro Piana

 

The SATOR-like orthodoxy (flannel or jeans, nothing in between!!!) is downright crazy.

 

Edit: and Caccioppoli for summer cottons, very good drills, washed canvas, etc heavy weights makes up like a beast

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