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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2239

post #33571 of 37396
It's not egregiously short. It's cut a bit on the shorter side - the slimness of the cut is accentuated by the fuller-cut trousers there. I usually go by the old 'can you grab cloth in cupped hands with arms by side' rule on length, although it's hardly scientific.
post #33572 of 37396

Ha that rule sounds neat, I can grasp it, but it doesn't reach the end of my cupped hands.

 

Speaking of cuts (still waiting for more to weigh in, I don't think it's hugely short either but I might ask tailor for a longer jacket in the future if you guys do think it's short), what do you guys think of the button placement of my db jackets?

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

While I don't think the proportions are wrong, I am thinking that I'd like the buttons a bit lower down, which would give the look of a shorter jacket (which is common with DBs) without actually shortening the jacket. I notice in Clag's for instance, the button is lot closer to the lower end of the jacket than in mine.

 

Unrelated, my tailor this time around has tried using softer padding, and I think I decidedly prefer stronger shoulders after all. Think I will ask for slight roping for most of my jackets from now on. Maybe even linen and summer jackets. I just prefer the look I think.

post #33573 of 37396
Thread Starter 

Too short.

 

My DB has a low buttoning point which I think makes the cut more aggressive, particularly with the structured shoulders and chest.

post #33574 of 37396

How much longer you reckon it should be, like half an inch? I assume you're referring to the tweed jacket. What do you think of the DB? Also longer, and have buttons lower? And yes I really like the configuration on your jacket.

post #33575 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post
 

 

I'd assume that jacket has more pulling than mine because, being a professional photo they probably have the opportunity to make it perfect and even brush up flaws.I can stand straight or angle myself such that there is less pulling if I take a photo too, but that wouldn't be accurate. The dark color and lack of bold pattern on that particular jacket also hides the pulling. If you just count the fabric pulling there's actually quite a bit of it I think. I'm not sure how possible it is to get a tight waisted jacket without there being pulling, even the official steed and hunstman examples I've seen posted have pulling at the button area, and I imagine when you move, that's just something that's going to happen, and I personally don't mind it too much as long as it's not pulling that looks uncomfortably like it's bursting open.

 

All of this is wrong. Sorry.

post #33576 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post
 

Anyway do you guys think this is too short? It doesn't strike me as so, it covers my seat. I guess I can see it being a bit longer and looking good too. I'm not sure.

 

The thing is, rules like "covers your ass" are generalities. What I'm saying is, it should never NOT cover your seat, but sometimes covering your seat isn't enough. It's more about overall proportions than specific rules in isolation. It looks short because the proportions are off. These are observations and, like I've said, if you simply prefer to wear these kinds of proportions then enjoy it. No one is going to rip your clothes off you (although I can think of a few members who might :smarmy:). 

post #33577 of 37396

re: shortness of jacket, I can see it being on the short side, and I think I might try to get them longer in the future. I think half an inch is more than sufficient, what do you think?

 

re: "all wrong"

 

I'm confused. Alll of it? How so?

 

Burberry aren't trending on the extremely skinny look/cuts?

 

What are these?

 

 

The tweed jacket is cut exactly the same as the blue glen plaid jacket I have.

 

So let me take some example of bespoke English/SR tailors. Here's a steed jacket:

 

 

Huntsman, with model/wearer leaning on one side:

 

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 100

 

More natural pulling:

 

post #33578 of 37396

^^^ In response to the above, you may want to note that in my original post of that picture I too said it was pulling.

post #33579 of 37396

Well you said "ALL" of it is wrong, so assume that includes my comments on how I think the burberry one is pulling more than mine is, and how I think it only doesn't seem that way because it's darker/not patterned.

 

The other examples I think also show that in motion/when not standing straight, it's common for even jackets SR tailors are happy to put on their advertisement to have pulling. I'm sure mine is not cut anywhere near as well as SR bespoke stuff, but I don't see my jackets have specifically more of a pulling at the button point issue.

 

I've also had the same jacket posted in different poses/outfits receive different opinions about tightness, and strangely, from the same people. I've literally had someone tell me they like the cut of a jacket much more this time around compared to my last jacket, when it was exactly the same jacket, simply because I posted a different photo and the lighting made the color look different (or they forgot etc). I also have a tendency to prefer posing in non standing straight stances (partially because I don't like how it makes my shoulder imbalance really obvious, and partially because I think it's better to see how a jacket looks in motion, as opposed to the technical fit of how it looks standing straight) and I feel people are more influenced by the photos than they realize, that's all.

 

Granted, there were/are cases where my jackets are clearly is too tight, but I've since then gotten jackets let out, and my newer jackets have more room now.

 

Like looking at the examples, when you lean to one side, or twist to one side, which, a person WILL do in real life, you don't just stand straight and stare at people, there will be some pulling, even in very good suits and jackets, and I don't really see that my jackets have particularly more pulling at the buttoning point.

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

More example of well cut jackets from steed that still show some pulling, especially for 3r2/3r2.5 jackets:

 

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 90

 

 

Huntsman:

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 100

 

 

Looks pretty sweet though. My point is only that jackets will pull, even very well made ones, especially if you move around and are not standing in robo po


Edited by Isolation - 1/25/16 at 9:43am
post #33580 of 37396
Thread Starter 

Pulling doesn't only result from tightness, nor is all pulling going to manifest as the dreaded X. In Vox's fit above, you only have pulling on the upper left above the button. I think that would suggest a balance issue of some sort. Or that somethign with his shoulder or back on the side is amiss. I don't know though. But I don't think something like that is caused by being too small in the common sense of the word.

post #33581 of 37396
DB pulling is different than SB pulling
post #33582 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post
 

Pulling doesn't only result from tightness, nor is all pulling going to manifest as the dreaded X. In Vox's fit above, you only have pulling on the upper left above the button. I think that would suggest a balance issue of some sort. Or that somethign with his shoulder or back on the side is amiss. I don't know though. But I don't think something like that is caused by being too small in the common sense of the word.


This is spot on. I have a jacket that has slight pulling in one area because of a balance issue. No matter how much room, or lack thereof, it has, it will always pull.

post #33583 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post
 

Well you said "ALL" of it is wrong, so assume that includes my comments on how I think the burberry one is pulling more than mine is, and how I think it only doesn't seem that way because it's darker/not patterned.

 

The other examples I think also show that in motion/when not standing straight, it's common for even jackets SR tailors are happy to put on their advertisement to have pulling. I'm sure mine is not cut anywhere near as well as SR bespoke stuff, but I don't see my jackets have specifically more of a pulling at the button point issue.

 

I've also had the same jacket posted in different poses/outfits receive different opinions about tightness, and strangely, from the same people. I've literally had someone tell me they like the cut of a jacket much more this time around compared to my last jacket, when it was exactly the same jacket, simply because I posted a different photo and the lighting made the color look different (or they forgot etc). I also have a tendency to prefer posing in non standing straight stances (partially because I don't like how it makes my shoulder imbalance really obvious, and partially because I think it's better to see how a jacket looks in motion, as opposed to the technical fit of how it looks standing straight) and I feel people are more influenced by the photos than they realize, that's all.

 

Granted, there were/are cases where my jackets are clearly is too tight, but I've since then gotten jackets let out, and my newer jackets have more room now.

 

Like looking at the examples, when you lean to one side, or twist to one side, which, a person WILL do in real life, you don't just stand straight and stare at people, there will be some pulling, even in very good suits and jackets, and I don't really see that my jackets have particularly more pulling at the buttoning point.

 

Pulling for whatever reason, and the fabric naturally folding and rippling because of movement, are two different things. I think this subject is getting away from you a little. An experienced eye can spot the difference between pulling and natural movement. Your jackets often pull. That's simply a fact. I'm not sure if you are being defensive or genuinely discussing this subject in good faith, but giving critiques to you is often a laborious process. Many times you simply refuse to take the point. I will, however, assume that you are speaking in good faith and say, again, that your preference is your preference. If that's how you like it that's fine.

post #33584 of 37396
Thread Starter 
More specifically, Isolation, if you want feedback on your jackets, your best bet is to stand at ease but erect, uneven shoulders and all. If a jacket looks good in this pose, that doesn't mean the jacket necessarily fits, but it is the closest approximation of fit one can get from a still image.

And a still image isn't the end all be all. One of the reasons I don't put cuffs on most (though I do on some) of my pants is that in orde for cuffed trousers to look good still, they have to be just the right height. And at that height, I really dislike how the pants look in motion (displaying a lot of sock with every step, as opposed to some sock occasionally). So here is a feature of our outfits that look good in pictures, particularly standing, but don't look quite as good as in motion or while sitting. Nevertheless, cuffs are very popular on SF at least in part due to the prevalence of judging standing pictures.
Edited by Claghorn - 1/25/16 at 1:33pm
post #33585 of 37396
Okay that's fair enough. I genuinely don't see some of the things I'm being told wrt waist issue and don't think the jacket's pulling is very noticeable compared to those other examples, but considering I've changed my mind about a great deal of things since when I first post, I'll stay quiet and give it time. I don't want to be defensive and I'm aware that's what I'm doing. Thanks for your comments and advice.
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