I'm phasing out my rtw stuff now so the trousers will fit better. I like to wear them high so I end up wearing skinnier trousers than I should with rtw.
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How Should I Start My Business Wardrobe?
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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2238post #33556 of 373961/25/16 at 6:35ampost #33557 of 373961/25/16 at 6:45am
I don't think so. The angle might affect the appearance of height or proportion, but the pulling at the waist is different. I didn't mention it in my first response to you because I've just come to believe the ultra slim look is your preference.post #33558 of 373961/25/16 at 6:51amOh I was referring to the shoulders and chest area when I saw it referred to as "small", because in the picture the bottom block looks bigger, but the shoulder is actually fairly wide and proportions are okay. It's on the tight side, as per my preference. I don't think tight is the same as small. It doesn't pull much when standing straight either. I'll get a picture.post #33559 of 373961/25/16 at 6:53ampost #33560 of 373961/25/16 at 6:57am
Shoulders and chest look ok to me. What looks small to me (and, I suspect, Eliod as well) is the waist and the length. The waist looks as if it would pull, leaning or not, but I could be wrong. The length is bordering on egregious but looks like it barely comes in under the wire. I wouldn't step out of the house with something that short on, though. Again, I have come to expect that this is your personal idiosyncrasy, so I wouldn't have mentioned it otherwise.post #33561 of 373961/25/16 at 6:57ampost #33562 of 373961/25/16 at 7:00ampost #33563 of 373961/25/16 at 7:01ampost #33564 of 373961/25/16 at 7:06am
You've mentioned before that you like a very shaped jacket, right? Like, that desire is what's driving your choices in terms of jacket fit?
But you seem to stick to a very clean chest – so to get the amount of shape you want, you need things nearly skintight, and that pushes the limits of what the cloth you wear will let you do.
I like a jacket that gives my body more shape than it has, too – I go for wider hips and more shoulder extension than you wear, but that's because I want to counteract my giant head, and it's hard to find a draped chest and narrow shoulders off the rack (specifically, a rack at Goodwill). Since you're having stuff made, in my recollection, you might have an easier time getting a that extra room without the shoulder extension.post #33565 of 373961/25/16 at 7:12amI've wanted to try a drape cut with steed for a while. I do ask my tailor for a flared skirt and slightly extended shoulder, and I've tried get roping and stronger shoulders to balance it too because I didn't want there to be divots
Here's a cleaner look at the cut.
The fabric is light so my phone inside my pocket caused some wrinkling but there isn't too much pull. Do you think this is what you mean, or do you think I should go further with the shoulder/skirt?post #33566 of 373961/25/16 at 7:12amQuote:
As an aside, can you think of any examples of extremely slim jackets that are well fitting and tailored? I know I've seen them before, no pulling, wrinkling, or shortness. Just tailored extremely close to the body. It looks pretty good, too. I just can't find any pictures of it at the moment.post #33567 of 373961/25/16 at 7:15ampost #33568 of 373961/25/16 at 7:22amQuote:Originally Posted by Isolation
I've wanted to try a drape cut with steed for a while. I do ask my tailor for a flared skirt and slightly extended shoulder, and I've tried get roping and stronger shoulders to balance it too because I didn't want there to be divots
Here's a cleaner look at the cut.
The fabric is light so my phone inside my pocket caused some wrinkling but there isn't too much pull. Do you think this is what you mean, or do you think I should go further with the shoulder/skirt?
That looks great. I think you started getting jackets like that while I was away from the forum for a while – last I saw you were still getting things cut more like the orange tweed.
Some of the French bespoke I've seen has looked quite good – Hugo Jacomet, for example, has a barrel chest and wears Cifonelli suits with almost no ease, to my eye, but they fit remarkably well.post #33569 of 373961/25/16 at 7:35ampost #33570 of 373961/25/16 at 7:54amQuote:That looks great. I think you started getting jackets like that while I was away from the forum for a while – last I saw you were still getting things cut more like the orange tweed.
I am not sure if it's actually that jacket's specific cut that's bad, but it is actually one of the orders I regret the most. It's just not very versatile, and especially with the cut I want, the check really exposes any pulling and flaws there are much more than a solid jacket. I think this is true to an extent for my other check jacket too.Quote:I'm not sure if this is the best example or not, and it is still a little tight around the waist, but it's getting there.
I'd assume that jacket has more pulling than mine because, being a professional photo they probably have the opportunity to make it perfect and even brush up flaws.I can stand straight or angle myself such that there is less pulling if I take a photo too, but that wouldn't be accurate. The dark color and lack of bold pattern on that particular jacket also hides the pulling. If you just count the fabric pulling there's actually quite a bit of it I think. I'm not sure how possible it is to get a tight waisted jacket without there being pulling, even the official steed and hunstman examples I've seen posted have pulling at the button area, and I imagine when you move, that's just something that's going to happen, and I personally don't mind it too much as long as it's not pulling that looks uncomfortably like it's bursting open.
Anyway do you guys think this is too short? It doesn't strike me as so, it covers my seat. I guess I can see it being a bit longer and looking good too. I'm not sure.
Included picture with my head in it which I think shows the overall balance better. Don't feel like the jacket is overall too small. Shoulders extends a little bit and I think the proportions look good focusing on shoulders, hip, and trousers, and works well with the cuffs.
Trousers look way messier in these pictures but please understand it's a by product of me twisting around to take the picture from my back.
Edited by Isolation - 1/25/16 at 8:13am
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