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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2236

post #33526 of 37396

Thanks for the input, gents.  Will keep thinking about the breast pocket.  As for elbow patches, I hope this one lasts me long enough that I can add them when the elbow wear justifies it.  

post #33527 of 37396
Thread Starter 
I go 2 patch for less rustic fabrics, but 3 for fabrics like those donegal.
post #33528 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

I go 2 patch for less rustic fabrics, but 3 for fabrics like those donegal.

That's what I tend to see a few others do, as well, and the patches on heavier tweeds and donegals always looks good.
post #33529 of 37396

I personally prefer 3 patch on linen, or soft flannel (or cashmere). Tweed is rustic sure, but it's more stuffy and dramatic, I think, maybe it's just the connotation tweed has on me. You don't picture tweed on someone relaxing/holidaying, more like someone going out doing something (hiking, shooting, idk, that that kinda stuff). 3 patch seems like a "soft/relaxed" feature, and tweed is similar to that in that it's not "sharp" as in citified, but it's not "soft" either, I mean, it is literally a rough fabric.

post #33530 of 37396

Don't listen to us. Do whatever you feel comfortable with. If we say 3 patch, but you think it looks off, then you won't enjoy it as much.

post #33531 of 37396
My only patch pockets are the Havana and Hudson SuSu models (Havana 2 patch, Hudson 3 patch). I prefer my Hudson model to all of my Havanas, but I think that's due to the larger lapels more than the triple patch pockets.

I'm very interested in this debate, since I'm definitely getting patch pockets of some sort on my KW jacket, but also haven't decided on 2 vs 3.
post #33532 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post
 

Alright Noodlers, about to commission my first MTM jacket from Kent Wang.  I chose cloth #26 (the mottled green) from Moon's Merino Lambswool book.  360g weight should be almost a nine-month cloth in my current climate.  


 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

As for makeup, I went with these options:

 

Front: 3-roll-2 button, notch lapel
Gorge height: Standard
Structure: Standard full canvas
Lining: Half ($20) - Highly recommended if you will ever be in warm weather
Lining fabric: Navy
Piping: Dark grey
Lapel size: Wide 4.25"
Lapel facing: No
Shoulder: Soft
Side pockets: Patch
Ticket pocket: No
Flap size: No flap
Chest pocket: Welted
Vents: Double (side)
Sleeve buttons: 3
Sleeve buttons overlap: No (kissing)
Cuff finishing: Working buttonholes
Throat tab: No
Phone pocket: No
Pick stitching: Limited
Buttons: Corozo dark brown
Elbow patches: No


 

Would appreciate input from anyone, especially those who've worked with Kent before (@venividivicibj @New Shoes1 @Claghorn).  

 

Sounds great. If this is your first commission from KW, I would advise that you have them send you the sleeve buttons separately, and get a local tailor to make the working buttonholes for you.

 

Unless of course part of the process is to receive a "test" jacket, in which case you can pretty accurately confirm that they have fixed the sleeve length correctly.

post #33533 of 37396
Yes, you get a test jacket to check measurements and make adjustments
post #33534 of 37396
I have more three patch sport coats than those with two. I love barchettas, but prefer having all pockets the same. Either set-in hip pockets with welted breast pocket, or triple patch. It's a definitive but subtle way to skew a jacket casual, as opposed to throat latches, action-backs, belts, elbow patches, etc.

Not that I'm opposed to such things.
post #33535 of 37396

I just prefer the look of welted to patch breast pocket. I have a couple of the latter, and they're fine, but I might like welted better on them.

post #33536 of 37396

I only get patch pocket on blazers.

post #33537 of 37396
h'tenor, I like your spec pretty much as-is. I generally don't care for triple-patch jackets, but especially with chunkier fabrics. To my eye they end up looking like a tumor on the chest, particularly the curvier variants.

You might consider an inner pocket for the hip pockets to hold your phone. Sort of like a coin pocket, but larger. I have jackets like this, and it helps to keep the weight of your phone/keys/whatever from bagging out the main pocket.
post #33538 of 37396

Looks like a winner, @heldentenor!

 

My specs are going to be pretty similar for the brown herringbone tweed jacket I'm going to pull the trigger on.  The only differences for me is that I'm leaning normal lapels and unstructured for the shoulders.  I'm probably going two patch pockets with flap covers.  I'm not sure about wide lapels on this jacket, even though I like them on my suits.

 

 

I wouldn't worry too much about the working buttons as the trial jacket will ensure you get that correct.

 

Regarding a phone pocket, I used to love that on my KW suits, until I got an Iphone 6, which does not fit.  Perhaps KW now makes the pocket bigger with the new bigger phones? 

post #33539 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

h'tenor, I like your spec pretty much as-is. I generally don't care for triple-patch jackets, but especially with chunkier fabrics. To my eye they end up looking like a tumor on the chest, particularly the curvier variants.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

First and last.....


This one is pretty heavy.
post #33540 of 37396

The pattern hides it though, if it were donegal or even herrigbone it'd look more weird, I think.

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