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post #33316 of 37395

We are all overlooking one thing, which is that DB suits were actually ubiquitous in the early 90s. In fact nobody wore SBs for a few years around that time. Then SBs suddenly came back (and were all hard-3, which was weird).

 

My point being: DB suits are not old-fashioned, or retro, or steam-punk, or anything like that. They are just another iteration of the men's lounge suit, the enthusiasm for which waxes and wanes with the seasons.

 

A couple of years ago, DB suits and especially DB odd jackets came roaring back - especially at Pitti, where they were paired with tangerine slim-fit chinos, sockless double monks, and humungous beards. Was this a good thing or a bad thing? Your mileage may vary. Certainly it was an hilarious thing.

post #33317 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

We are all overlooking one thing, which is that DB suits were actually ubiquitous in the early 90s. In fact nobody wore SBs for a few years around that time. Then SBs suddenly came back (and were all hard-3, which was weird).

 

My point being: DB suits are not old-fashioned, or retro, or steam-punk, or anything like that. They are just another iteration of the men's lounge suit, the enthusiasm for which waxes and wanes with the seasons.

 

A couple of years ago, DB suits and especially DB odd jackets came roaring back - especially at Pitti, where they were paired with tangerine slim-fit chinos, sockless double monks, and humungous beards. Was this a good thing or a bad thing? Your mileage may vary. Certainly it was an hilarious thing.

Yeah I believe the overall order was DB, 3 button SB, followed by 2 button SB. You can't really give DB a solid defining tag. I'm not familiar with Pitti fashion but I imagine it looked something like a combination of these.blogs-daily-details-3Details-Pitti1MJ-1105-web.jpg tumblr_mzhuslDrpP1rhqyowo1_1280.jpg

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post
 

I think SB, because of its ubiquitousness, will draw less attention to yourself, but I'm not convinced either way whether DBs or SBs are inherently more or less flattering on different body shapes, or require more or less of a good fit. I think whenever you stand out with what you wear, flaws will show through more.

 

But certainly, yes, if you want to get a DB, I'd suggest going bespoke or an MTM that works well. Not all MTM are created equal. I get my suits from HK, which is not TOO far from Australia I suppose, and my partner has a difficult body to tailor for as well (they are quite small/short) and have gotten DBs that fit them quite well.

I used to live in Hong Kong so I've always been a bit suspicious at the high-end suiting qualities, are the pricing decent? I'm relatively new to the bespoke scene and have primarily been using MTMs like Dragon Inside and Knot Standard 

post #33318 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleav View Post


Fina or grossa?

You strike me as a fina grossa guy....

 

My few grenadines are all fina.  My grossness is covered by a couple of knits. :)

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

Navy suit / white shirt / navy tie, when cut clean, can be sober or even cool. Swap in a burgundy tie and you may be sober, but never, ever cool.

 

Navy plus navy crosses from sober to timid.  Cool comes from within.  

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by merick View Post
 

 

So the suit is on the edge of acceptable business attire, but if I choose to wear it I should tone it down with a white shirt and a neat tie.

 

The standard SF recommendation of a light blue shirt works well.  I like white shirts too.  I like blue more with burgundy.  But no stripes or contrast collars - one GQ point too far when added to your fun suit.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

We are all overlooking one thing, which is that DB suits were actually ubiquitous in the early 90s. 

 

As you said, there are a lot of different interpretations of the DB.  There is the iron-clad Savile Row banker type with a chalk stripe and red socks, the mid 80s New Romantic type in pastel shades with enormous shoulder pads, the petit Pitti hipster version shown above...I can see why a lot of people don't like them.  But if they fit well, and manage to avoid looking too much like any of the aforementioned*, I think they're great.  The short lapel three button stuffed sausage jackets that I recall also from the early 90s, are perhaps best left for hunting tweeds and breeks.

*Exceptions can be made if you're a really important financier, member of Duran Duran/Spandau Ballet, or gay Neopolitan scarf vendor, respectively.

post #33319 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

We are all overlooking one thing, which is that DB suits were actually ubiquitous in the early 90s. In fact nobody wore SBs for a few years around that time. Then SBs suddenly came back (and were all hard-3, which was weird).

 

My point being: DB suits are not old-fashioned, or retro, or steam-punk, or anything like that. They are just another iteration of the men's lounge suit, the enthusiasm for which waxes and wanes with the seasons.

 

A couple of years ago, DB suits and especially DB odd jackets came roaring back - especially at Pitti, where they were paired with tangerine slim-fit chinos, sockless double monks, and humungous beards. Was this a good thing or a bad thing? Your mileage may vary. Certainly it was an hilarious thing.

That's what I am saying, DB being considered old fashioned was a relatively recent phenomenon, certainly does not go back as far as post-war.

 

Quote:
I used to live in Hong Kong so I've always been a bit suspicious at the high-end suiting qualities, are the pricing decent? I'm relatively new to the bespoke scene and have primarily been using MTMs like Dragon Inside and Knot Standard 

 

Well, that's up to you to decide, but Chan is well respected and quite a few members here use HK tailors and are regarded as having very good taste and well fitting suits. I'm not up to par by comparison, but I like what I ended up with:

 

my examples (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My tailor had a notable price hike recently, but when I got these they were something like 3000 HKD a jacket or so, but more with quarter lining and MoP buttons. Now it'll be about 4-4.5k. There are also other options around that might be better.

post #33320 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Count de Monet View Post

I'll settle for sober. My kids will confirm I'm "never, ever cool" anyway. But has Manton's edict banning burgundy with white shirts been repealed? I might have missed the memo.
Burgundy ties are fine. So are navy, but better. Either is OK.
post #33321 of 37395

hi,

 

i have an interview at a top modern art museum in nyc tomorrow. it's for a coding position, but if i were to land the job i'd be asked to present at times. what should i wear?

 

about me: 5'10", 132lbs, slender, very feminine build with shaggy hair. as of now, i've got a 60s navy armani blazer that fits me perfectly, but i feel it may be too...dinner-ish/casual. it really looks great, though. plus i don't have matching pants. certainly possible to go out tonight and buy some that match, though. other than that, i've got various sweaters. was thinking maybe the blazer on top of a solid, cream, crew-neck theory sweater that fits well. or maybe just a sweater over an oxford and tie. or maybe a black turtleneck but...that seems like it's trying too hard. only real nice shoes i have are standard-issue black chelsea boots. for some reason my ideal get-up is a robert longo-esqe skinny black suit, white shirt, and no tie. something very mod. i just really have no idea what to do for a professional creative job of this level.

 

i'm willing to go out today and spend whatever it takes. would love to land the job. thanks in advance for any advice.

post #33322 of 37395

You're cutting it a bit close. A picture of the blazer might be helpful. Just if we were to recommend you to buy something, you don't have much time for that now.

post #33323 of 37395

yea, the interview was scheduled last night unfortunately. might be able to push it back to next tuesday or thursday, but i feel delaying it might look bad at this point. in any case, here's a photo of it from about eight months ago:

 

http://i.imgur.com/TKgzqkK.jpg

 

hair's at the top of my ears nowadays.

post #33324 of 37395

I guess to be safe, I'd suggest to just find a pair of gray trousers and a white shirt and be done with it.

 

I think tie less and not as a part of a suit white shirt does better, but I'm sure most here would recommend a blue one instead. I think this doesn't pair quite as well with sweaters as those are a bit more rustic, and this has a more dressy vibe.

 

I'd suggest looking into Suit Supply for some jackets and pieces in the future if you have the chance.

post #33325 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post


Burgundy ties are fine [with a white shirt]. ...

 

Thanks.  Too late for today, though.  I'd already paired my burg Hober pin dot with a trusty light blue shirt. 

 

Very liberating going forward, however.  As they say at Faber, knowledge is good.

post #33326 of 37395
Are Chelsea boots almost as versatile as chukkas?
post #33327 of 37395
Thread Starter 
Some say more. Others say less. They both are really useful. Chukkas can be dressed down a bit more easily, chelseas up.

I like chelseas more. As do DocH and Ac2. I believe Shugz is firmly in the chukka camp.

In the end, they are both great.
post #33328 of 37395

imo no. It's more aesthetically specific. Chukkas work in a greater variety of looks I think. I like them both, but I prefer Chelseas for more city-vibe situations.

 

I think the idea is that chelseas are more sleek being partially wholecut, so they are more formal. I think they are sleeker for sure, but the elastic makes it less trad/classic/whatever. I don't think it goes well with a sombre suit, but I think you can get away with chukkas and a muted suit in winter, for example. I do anyway, because it's London, it rains, and, well, dainite soles make more sense, while still keeping to a relatively "standard" look.

post #33329 of 37395

Stood up too quickly at my desk, sportcoat pocket caught on arm of chair, front of patch pocket ripped.

 

I think I'll tuck it into the the rest of the pocket and call it sprezz


Edited by venividivicibj - 1/13/16 at 9:36am
post #33330 of 37395
Thread Starter 
This is why I never stand up.
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