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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2221

post #33301 of 37533
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

I agree on both counts. With perhaps one exception:

Marzotto-l-evasione-fiscale-e-le-Cayman_h_partb.jpg
Well done.
post #33302 of 37533
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post


Well done.

 

You guys could be cousins

post #33303 of 37533
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

Navy suit / white shirt / navy tie, when cut clean, can be sober or even cool. Swap in a burgundy tie and you may be sober, but never, ever cool.

I'll settle for sober. My kids will confirm I'm "never, ever cool" anyway. But has Manton's edict banning burgundy with white shirts been repealed? I might have missed the memo.
post #33304 of 37533
I like stripes as chalk stripes on flannel exclusively maybe I just have lots of tacky connotations built up with cheap worsted stripe suits.
post #33305 of 37533
Quote:
Originally Posted by merick View Post

Is the suit I am wearing today accepted as business attire ? I got a comment it's too bold, hence my question.

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Well a double breasted suit is as formal as you can be without a tux...but yeah if it's proper business attire (not in a business casual environment) you should be fine, matching suit trousers I presume? I actually think the tie's fine, since you're already going pinstripe DB I find it mismatching, kinda weird if you go for something too muted, perhaps swap for a slightly toned down fabric? this seems too shiny to me

post #33306 of 37533

I think a three piece is more formal than a db.

 

The tie doesn't have to be "muted" necessary, just have to have a more congruent vibe, and if you mix lavender it's a bit too dandyish, and not as business, whereas a dark burgundy or even midnight tie matches the more aggressive tone, and serious (not necessarily "sombre") tone.

post #33307 of 37533
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post
 

I think a three piece is more formal than a db.

 

The tie doesn't have to be "muted" necessary, just have to have a more congruent vibe, and if you mix lavender it's a bit too dandyish, and not as business, whereas a dark burgundy or even midnight tie matches the more aggressive tone, and serious (not necessarily "sombre") tone.

Interesting, my impression was that a three piece suit is used to achieve the effect of a db without the risk - for example a short man

 

Agree with the tie's colour, I do feel like there needs to be some kind of pattern there (not stripe) though - not too showy but not plain

post #33308 of 37533

Originally all suits are 3 piece, including DBs, but then the vest was removed from DBs (rations during war, good example is if you watch Jeeves and Wooster, which is set pre war, their DBs have vests as well), and DBs are worn as suits that don't need vests. Similarly, DB tuxes are less formal than SB (and therefore 3 piece) Tuxes. It stands to reason then, I think, that SB 3 pieces are more formal, as essentially DBs became "suits that don't need a vest". Of course these things change, and DBs are seen as more dandified, and I think odd waistcoats are also, but a matching 3 piece I think is the most formal contemporary incarnation of the lounge suit.

 

I also don't think DBs are bad for a short person.

 

I like a textured solid, a grenadine, or something subtle, but I am sure a neat is good too. I think a stripe would be a bit too much of a visual statement (clash) against bold stripes on the suit.

post #33309 of 37533
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post
 

 

I'd wear a different tie to tone it down. Which shoes were you wearing?

 

I like that suit a lot, but yeah, it's definitely bold. Not necessarily a bad thing though.

 

Black captoe oxfords. 

 

So the suit is on the edge of acceptable business attire, but if I choose to wear it I should tone it down with a white shirt and a neat tie.

 

Time to buy a solid (grenadine ? ) burgundy tie. Any suggestions?

 

 

Edit: Example of me wearing the suit with a brown grenadine tie:

 

post #33310 of 37533

Agree with the tie, as long as it has some texture it should be good.

 

Interesting history of DB, from what I've heard DB lost its place in the early 20th century due to the Great wars since the extra fabric called for rationing, so to achieve the more buttoned up look many men took up the SB + vest option. But yeah I guess that three piece suit is probably more formal than DB now as it's viewed as being a bit more fashionable and contemporary retro.

 

The reason why I tend to not favour DB on short men is because I'm quite short personally ( barely 5'7) and am pretty slim (36' chest 28' waist) and frankly does not look good in it - might go bespoke for one when I get the chance though, I usually use MTM.

post #33311 of 37533
Quote:
Originally Posted by merick View Post
 

 

Black captoe oxfords. 

 

So the suit is on the edge of acceptable business attire, but if I choose to wear it I should tone it down with a white shirt and a neat tie.

 

Time to buy a solid (grenadine ? ) burgundy tie. Any suggestions?

 

 

Edit: Example of me wearing the suit with a brown grenadine tie:

 

Yeah, definitely swap the shirt out for plain white. looks pretty busy at the moment. Good choice on the shoes though

post #33312 of 37533
Quote:
Originally Posted by VirgilVerne View Post
 

Agree with the tie, as long as it has some texture it should be good.

 

Interesting history of DB, from what I've heard DB lost its place in the early 20th century due to the Great wars since the extra fabric called for rationing, so to achieve the more buttoned up look many men took up the SB + vest option. But yeah I guess that three piece suit is probably more formal than DB now as it's viewed as being a bit more fashionable and contemporary retro.

 

The reason why I tend to not favour DB on short men is because I'm quite short personally ( barely 5'7) and am pretty slim (36' chest 28' waist) and frankly does not look good in it - might go bespoke for one when I get the chance though, I usually use MTM.

 

No, you're not reading what I said, you've got it the other way around. My comments referred to historical views, not contemporary ones. DBs did become rarer (not early 20th century, but later, or in fact, quite recently), but is currently gaining a resurgence, and as such, it's hard to place it for "right now" so I sought only to tell you how it was traditionally perceived.

 

A 3 pc SB takes more cloth than a 2pc DB by far. In fact a DB doesn't take that much more cloth than an SB at all, and if you go to a tailor's they will generally ask for the same amount of cloth. What you read is about waitcoats being paired with DB, not the DB itself, as the DB was still worn quite often after the war, and only more recently became considered "old fashioned".

 

If you think about it, if the DB became defunct around the time of the war, then people these days (or 5 years ago, in any case) wouldn't have an "old fashioned" connotation to it, because the DB would have only been worn before these people were alive, or only when they were very young. Rather, it's associated with people who were began wearing suits in the 50s or 60s, who in the 2000s, are now in their 70s or 80s.

 

I definitely do not think small and/or thin people look bad in DB. Quite a few notable short people have gone for DB. I suggest checking out the DB thread in this forum: http://www.styleforum.net/t/67010/double-breasted-style/0_100

 

I think a well proportioned db suit does very well to enhance a person's smaller stature, as it pairs naturally well with wide peak lapels. It obviously can't make a person actually taller or bigger, but it gives a person bigger presence. 

 

The reason DBs look bad on smaller people is because generally speaking it's harder for smaller people to get well fitted clothes, and DBs being rarer, it's even harder to find well fitting DB suits, and then the fact that DBs draw more attention to the wearer means that it draws more attention to the ill fitting clothes on a small person. A well fitted DB do not have these problems I think. DB suits often allow for a slightly shorter jacket length (as it has no open quarters and will be worn closed), which I think makes a person look taller. Again the lapels draw attention to the chest and shoulders and make it look stronger. If anything, I rather think a DB is more suited for a smaller person than a larger one.

post #33313 of 37533
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post
 

 

No, you're not reading what I said, you've got it the other way around. My comments referred to historical views, not contemporary ones. DBs did become rarer (not early 20th century, but later, or in fact, quite recently), but is currently gaining a resurgence, and as such, it's hard to place it for "right now" so I sought only to tell you how it was traditionally perceived.

 

A 3 pc SB takes more cloth than a 2pc DB by far. In fact a DB doesn't take that much more cloth than an SB at all, and if you go to a tailor's they will generally ask for the same amount of cloth. What you read is about waitcoats being paired with DB, not the DB itself, as the DB was still worn quite often after the war, and only more recently became considered "old fashioned".

 

I do consider 'resurgence' as similar to 'fashionable' like I said,  disregarding its connotation of 'old fashioned' due to DB's instability in recent years, but you're quite right regarding the DB's time of rarity considering the association with elders. 

 

 

The reason DBs look bad on smaller people is because generally speaking it's harder for smaller people to get well fitted clothes, and DBs being rarer, it's even harder to find well fitting DB suits, and then the fact that DBs draw more attention to the wearer means that it draws more attention to the ill fitting clothes on a small person. A well fitted DB do not have these problems I think. DB suits often allow for a slightly shorter jacket length (as it has no open quarters and will be worn closed), which I think makes a person look taller. Again the lapels draw attention to the chest and shoulders and make it look stronger. If anything, I rather think a DB is more suited for a smaller person than a larger one.

Which is why I said I may get one Bespoke, since MTM can't fit me perfectly. 

post #33314 of 37533
Fat dudes in DB's… now there's classically fashionable for you.
post #33315 of 37533

I think SB, because of its ubiquitousness, will draw less attention to yourself, but I'm not convinced either way whether DBs or SBs are inherently more or less flattering on different body shapes, or require more or less of a good fit. I think whenever you stand out with what you wear, flaws will show through more.

 

But certainly, yes, if you want to get a DB, I'd suggest going bespoke or an MTM that works well. Not all MTM are created equal. I get my suits from HK, which is not TOO far from Australia I suppose, and my partner has a difficult body to tailor for as well (they are quite small/short) and have gotten DBs that fit them quite well.

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