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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 223

post #3331 of 37438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

I am still a project. Don't defund it when it's riding high. 
Any rules on french cuff shirts and cufflings that I should know about? I need one for the wedding. 

Thanks 

Cufflinks are best when they're simple. I also prefer that they have "show" faces on both sides rather than a toggle on the back side.

Examples







post #3332 of 37438
The last ones are from Brooks Brothers, and they're what I wear most days.
post #3333 of 37438

Thanks! I think something like the 2nd one would be great. 

post #3334 of 37438
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJL View Post

would have insta-kopped if they still had my size frown.gif

Gorgeous, but at least and inch too short for me. Sigh.
post #3335 of 37438
Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleroller View Post

thoughts on theses squares?

1.
 



2.


3.


BEAUTIFUL colors
post #3336 of 37438
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 

@Rudals

 

Um...Carminas...just 100 dollars more than AE Park Avenues at full price:

 

http://www.gentlemensfootwear.com/collections/shoes/products/carmina-cap-toe-oxford-in-black-calf-1

 

Substitute "Meermin" for "AE" and you have my exact rationale for not buying Meermin's linea maestro line.

post #3337 of 37438
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

Substitute "Meermin" for "AE" and you have my exact rationale for not buying Meermin's linea maestro line.

Meermins do look good, though, while AE will always look like crap.
post #3338 of 37438
Ow, snap... lurker[1].gif
post #3339 of 37438
I just found out there's Alden store in dc. How are those compared to c&j???
post #3340 of 37438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

I just found out there's Alden store in dc. How are those compared to c&j???


Rudals, what's wrong with the Carminas? Not in your size? Don't like the forest last?

post #3341 of 37438
Thread Starter 

Meermins do usually look better than AE, but I'll take AE for durability. In the end, I'll happily wear both.

 

C&J looks much, much nicer than Alden.

post #3342 of 37438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Meermins do usually look better than AE, but I'll take AE for durability. In the end, I'll happily wear both.

C&J looks much, much nicer than Alden.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/141581/allen-edmonds-appreciation-thread/40140#post_6980245
wink.gif

Better show some pics of your fitting at b&tailor smile.gif
post #3343 of 37438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
How we build our wardrobes is as much a function of where we are in building it as it is what we want it to be.

Starting out, it's best to build in broad strokes, so that as a person's taste in CM coalesces, most of those early purchases don't get eliminated from rotation. It doesn't always work, of course. I figured, perhaps incorrectly, that navy and navy ground ties could be worn with much of what I intended to purchase. As it turns out, I don't particularly like gray suits, nor do I have much of an occassion to wear them, so though I am happy to have a few navy ties, the ten I own is several too many.

I think most staples are staples because of their general versatility. I can't think of any direction in CM which wouldn't involve a number of cersatile staples.

I guess the best approach to integrating versatility into building a wardrobe is:

Starting from scratch, both in terms of items and direction--general versatility

Figuring out what you want your wardrobe to look like when completed--versatility within the direction you intend to take.

Near complete--versatility with regards to what already own.

I don't think the first step can be skipped. I'm not sure we can accurately determine the direction we want to build in without growing comfortable in a CM base from which to grow from.

Lol @ anyone on SF thinking of their wardrobe as "near complete" for more than 48 hours at a time. Anyway it's true that you may want to consider the various things you could buy in the future and not just what you have and wear currently. But I think for people on here, there's basically only one crossroads in terms of fabric types and colors and that's whether or not to dress seasonally. A random item in linen isn't going to be that useful without a few other linen items around it. Same for tweed. And once you get a seasonal wardrobe, you won't want to wear your 3-season worsted stuff anymore except maybe the suits.

Other than that, there are fairly few directions a typical SFer could take that would make large parts of your wardrobe obsolete. Sure, maybe a few navy ties here as in your example, a few of the more "business" or "casual" accessories that you use less as you move your taste in one direction or the other, but these are not drastic changes. Take, for instance, Will Boehkle of A Suitable Wardrobe and Gus/pocketsquareguy (easiest to compare people who live in the same climate). Their styles are about as different as you can get within the SF landscape. But if you forced them to swap accessories, they would do fine putting together outfits, at least in terms of colors and patterns and fabrics.

What's underappreciated is the difficulty and importance of having the silhouette of your items fit together. Maybe you found a maker of slim trousers that you like a lot because they fit you well, the price is right, and you like their selection of fabrics. Then later you notice how nice drape cut coats look in Apparel Arts illustrations and try to replicate that. Your coats and your trousers now look ridiculous together. Likewise if you build a wardrobe in a relaxed fit and then insist on elongated lasts and chiseled toes. The range of silhouettes is much wider, and the areas of incompatibility larger, than the range of commonly (at least within our world) used colors. It's also harder to see and harder to explain the virtues and aspects of different silhouettes, so it's less discussed on fora and whatnot. But if and when you think about what "direction" your wardrobe is going to take, I would recommend spending at least as much time thinking about this as whether you will wear more gray suits or more navy suits.
post #3344 of 37438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

I just found out there's Alden store in dc. How are those compared to c&j???

How very dare you!
post #3345 of 37438
Rudals, from what I've seen of your tastes, you should go with a European cap toe. I would look at either the Rain or Forest last from Carmina, Meermin's Hiro or Olfe last or something from C&J.

Gentlemens' Footwear will have black cap toes on both Carmina lasts soon. I also suspect Cleave can recommend some specific C&J options.
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