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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2213

post #33181 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

I think I have the ability to do that. I also think the powers that be would be upset if I did so.

Luke, don't give into the dark side of the Force . . .
post #33182 of 37408

I have a feeling this may be a re-tread of old, frequently referenced threads from days gone by, but I hope to get something useful by asking. If not, feel free to point me to those threads for me to review.

 

In a few months, I'm going to set aside a few grand to overhaul my business wardrobe. Let's say between $4,000 to $5,000, to give an idea of price range (I'm certainly not spending it all on one bespoke suit). I'll (still) be working in the financial industry, and although it's not necessarily the most conservative company in that field, I'll still be wearing suits five times a week. Most of my "business" wardrobe currently consists of pieces that were purchased before I had any sort of compass; everything too slim/short/casual. I do have a handful of acceptable pieces, but as I've mentioned here before, I want to start with a basic wardrobe that I can add to slowly as a develop my own style and preferences. There are some common recommendations that I feel may not be completely appropriate in my environment, like wearing "staple" Grenadines/knits with a business suit (@Claghorn we've discussed this before and I'm still planning on buying something in brown as a test, maybe this is just a personal hurdle and is completely acceptable in the wild). I think what I'm looking for is how best to allocate my funds and what staples I absolutely should not miss, or best options/deals in a particular category that are worth the extra cash).

 

 

Proposed starter business wardrobe: (Click to show)

Suits:

solid charcoal (already own Corneliani that I'm happy with)

solid navy (considering a York from Suit Supply)

mid-grey sharskin (Kent Wang? B&S forum?)

either another suit or odd jacket/trousers

 

Shoes:

Black AE Park Aves (already own, good enough to check this box for now)

Brown AE Drydens (already own, too light to be considered optimal, looking to replace)

 

Ties:

??? (Everything I own is garbage, a few patterns are passable but from Tie Bar)

 

Shirts:

10 shirts (have a couple that are acceptable, waiting on a Luxire order, pattern is close to being dialed in moving forward)

 

Misc:

Socks

Belt

Suspenders


Edited by flvinny521 - 1/10/16 at 8:49am
post #33183 of 37408
Thread Starter 

If you really feel like you are not going to like brown, then don't get brown. I do think that feeling comfortable in what you wear is an often ignored element of looking well put together. If you are going to feel uncomfortable about a brown tie, you won't look as good as you would in another color.

 

I still love brown, and it is still my favorite tie color, but I've been wearing a lot of green of late. I don't think there is any issue with a grenadine fina in the context of a business suit (and I am willing to bet there are a number of people who will see no problem with a grenadine, period).

 

But let's see if I can't find 10 ties, four solids, three stripes, and three neats, that you would feel comfortable with.

 

Forest Green Wool/Silk Tie #14

Wool/silk from Sam Hober. I think that two fabric blends a better than 100% anything.

 

316-1.jpg?t=1447214084

A very safe burgundy macclesfield from Hober. Will go well with any suit.

 

Pindot dark green

This Kent Wang has become one of my go to ties in the last month or so.

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 


I know you said no grenadine, but I promise this (from Henry Carter) will go over smoothly in your workplace.

 

main_2601_Macclesfield-Print-Ties-G2.jpg?crop=exact&width=545&height=545

Olive neat from Exquisite Trimmings

 

TMSOT-6.jpg?t=1426661141

Standard blue from Sam Hober (twill madder)

 

FFOXT-6-111.jpg?t=1425640148

Another Hober. I've now noticed that a lot of my favorite places to get ties lack CBD staples. Anyway, burgundy is a staple tie color. You'd have one neat and this oxford weave. There is a little bit of a sheen (in a good way) that makes it a bit dressier than other ties.

 

Sky Blue Dots on Dark Navy Pin-Dot Silk Tie #2

AND another Hober. Though I love Hober and he makes great ties, I just prefer a good variety of brands in these things. Anyway, pindot navy is probably a top three staple in a business wardrobe.

 

Alright. Three stripes now. I know little about conservative stripes. I think 90% of mine are slubby. Anyway, all from Hober. All conservative and versatile (I think).

 

RGT-51.jpg?t=1448358176

 

UKU-41.jpg?t=1448031602

 

Regimental-28-b.jpg?t=1443722729

post #33184 of 37408

Noodlers, I have no experience of Suitsupply trousers but snagged a pair of green cords in size 46.  Anyone know how they compare to any of the SF favorite brands (Rota, Eidos, Panta, HY, Epaulet, Spier & McKay) in terms of fit? 

post #33185 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

If you really feel like you are not going to like brown, then don't get brown. I do think that feeling comfortable in what you wear is an often ignored element of looking well put together. If you are going to feel uncomfortable about a brown tie, you won't look as good as you would in another color.

 

I still love brown, and it is still my favorite tie color, but I've been wearing a lot of green of late. I don't think there is any issue with a grenadine fina in the context of a business suit (and I am willing to bet there are a number of people who will see no problem with a grenadine, period).

 

But let's see if I can't find 10 ties, four solids, three stripes, and three neats, that you would feel comfortable with.

 

Forest Green Wool/Silk Tie #14

Wool/silk from Sam Hober. I think that two fabric blends a better than 100% anything.

 

316-1.jpg?t=1447214084

A very safe burgundy macclesfield from Hober. Will go well with any suit.

 

Pindot dark green

This Kent Wang has become one of my go to ties in the last month or so.

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 


I know you said no grenadine, but I promise this (from Henry Carter) will go over smoothly in your workplace.

 

main_2601_Macclesfield-Print-Ties-G2.jpg?crop=exact&width=545&height=545

Olive neat from Exquisite Trimmings

 

TMSOT-6.jpg?t=1426661141

Standard blue from Sam Hober (twill madder)

 

FFOXT-6-111.jpg?t=1425640148

Another Hober. I've now noticed that a lot of my favorite places to get ties lack CBD staples. Anyway, burgundy is a staple tie color. You'd have one neat and this oxford weave. There is a little bit of a sheen (in a good way) that makes it a bit dressier than other ties.

 

Sky Blue Dots on Dark Navy Pin-Dot Silk Tie #2

AND another Hober. Though I love Hober and he makes great ties, I just prefer a good variety of brands in these things. Anyway, pindot navy is probably a top three staple in a business wardrobe.

 

Alright. Three stripes now. I know little about conservative stripes. I think 90% of mine are slubby. Anyway, all from Hober. All conservative and versatile (I think).

 

RGT-51.jpg?t=1448358176

 

UKU-41.jpg?t=1448031602

 

Regimental-28-b.jpg?t=1443722729

 

 

I have nothing against brown. In fact, I like a lot of what you post with brown ties. My concern is just wearing grossa grenadines or knits with worsted suits. It's something I've never done before, so I should just do it and get it out of my system. I'm sure my world won't crumble.

post #33186 of 37408

Claghorn is good with the tie advice, but I would add that if you're on a budget, there's nothing wrong with getting a few knits (if you think you'll wear any) from cheaper sources (I use TM Lewin for thos), but then get the nicer ones from, say Hober (I think that's a solid place to get your first half dozen to dozen, then add slowly as you go), if you don't want to get a bunch from different places.

 

I think for that budget, SS is a very good place to start. I think if you're wearing suits 5 days a week, I wouldn't necessarily look to go to more expensive territory until you have 5-10 suits, if SS fits you well, but I know many would prefer to have fewer really nice items, I think having a seasonal and varied wardrobe is more important, especially in making a good impression if people will see you in your suits very often.

 

I highly recommend Loake if you can get them cheap (Herring/Pediwear) if you want more shoes. I think you want more than 2 pairs, personally, though maybe don't go 10+ like most SFers. I think adding in a pair of dark brown suede (single monks or chukkas for a slightly more casual look) is good, but that's maybe not "business wardrobe" exactly.

 

Luxire sounds good for shirts, though I use HK tailors for that, as they are a bit cheaper and I've dialed in my fit with them by now.

 

I like HJ Hall for wool socks.

 

I have a bunch of belts from Equus and they are good but I find that I don't really wear belts now when I can help it, only after getting 10 custom ones made.

 

Now I use Albert Thurston or nothing.

 

If you have more casual days, I think Luxire will make pretty good odd trousers too. I think they are better value than SS for specifically that.

 

re brown

 

I have a rough silk brown that I think is very good with navy, and even navy flannel (or fresco, I don't find it particularly seasonal) if you don't like knits or grenadine, but honestly I think knits you can argue to be too casual for worsted suits, grenadine is a bit too paranoid I think.

post #33187 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post

Noodlers, I have no experience of Suitsupply trousers but snagged a pair of green cords in size 46.  Anyone know how they compare to any of the SF favorite brands (Rota, Eidos, Panta, HY, Epaulet, Spier & McKay) in terms of fit? 

I don't have any experience with SS odd trousers, but their suit trousers definitely run slim, borderline skinny. My biggest issue is the small trouser opening which makes for an overly aggressive taper. My large calves probably don't help (thanks a lot Welsh ancestors).
post #33188 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post


I don't have any experience with SS odd trousers, but their suit trousers definitely run slim, borderline skinny. My biggest issue is the small trouser opening which makes for an overly aggressive taper. My large calves probably don't help (thanks a lot Welsh ancestors).

 

Thanks--might have to put these up for sale, then. 

post #33189 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Claghorn is good with the tie advice, but I would add that if you're on a budget, there's nothing wrong with getting a few knits (if you think you'll wear any) from cheaper sources (I use TM Lewin for thos), but then get the nicer ones from, say Hober (I think that's a solid place to get your first half dozen to dozen, then add slowly as you go), if you don't want to get a bunch from different places.

 

I think for that budget, SS is a very good place to start. I think if you're wearing suits 5 days a week, I wouldn't necessarily look to go to more expensive territory until you have 5-10 suits, if SS fits you well, but I know many would prefer to have fewer really nice items, I think having a seasonal and varied wardrobe is more important, especially in making a good impression if people will see you in your suits very often.

 

I highly recommend Loake if you can get them cheap (Herring/Pediwear) if you want more shoes. I think you want more than 2 pairs, personally, though maybe don't go 10+ like most SFers. I think adding in a pair of dark brown suede (single monks or chukkas for a slightly more casual look) is good, but that's maybe not "business wardrobe" exactly.

 

Luxire sounds good for shirts, though I use HK tailors for that, as they are a bit cheaper and I've dialed in my fit with them by now.

 

I like HJ Hall for wool socks.

 

I have a bunch of belts from Equus and they are good but I find that I don't really wear belts now when I can help it, only after getting 10 custom ones made.

 

Now I use Albert Thurston or nothing.

 

If you have more casual days, I think Luxire will make pretty good odd trousers too. I think they are better value than SS for specifically that.

 

re brown

 

I have a rough silk brown that I think is very good with navy, and even navy flannel (or fresco, I don't find it particularly seasonal) if you don't like knits or grenadine, but honestly I think knits you can argue to be too casual for worsted suits, grenadine is a bit too paranoid I think.

 

 

Thanks for weighing in. You actually had recommended those HJ Hall socks once before. I'm going to buy some now and try them out. They do over-the-calf?

 

As far as suits, the York cut at Suit Supply fit pretty well, but I'm concerned that most of their cuts are "skinny guy" cuts, and I have a background in weight training, so I don't fit that look at all. They did have one that was maybe even better than the York in mid-grey, I think called the Hartford, but it cost a grand and I figured that might be overpriced for Suit Supply. So besides solid charcoal, solid navy, and mid-grey sharkskin, what are the go-to business colors/patterns?

 

Re: shoes, I think I'd keep the black cap-toes with a new dark brown and oxblood oxfords for "normal" business wear, and the slightly-too-light AEs as a business casual option. I've never tried Loake, but heard good things. I also wanted to look into Yanko from Spain, and I think there were some others from Pediwear I was looking into (Sanders, maybe?).

 

Belts - I have had my belt loops removed from my older suits, and I might end up doing the same on these as well. Maybe one black and one brown lower end belt just in case.

 

I have a Luxire shirt on order which is my fourth through them. I'm hoping to get the fit down on this one so I can just order a batch and be done with it. I'm concerned that getting odd trousers through them would take many iterations since I don't have a decently fitting pair right now to send in.

post #33190 of 37408
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by flvinny521 View Post

I have nothing against brown. In fact, I like a lot of what you post with brown ties. My concern is just wearing grossa grenadines or knits with worsted suits. It's something I've never done before, so I should just do it and get it out of my system. I'm sure my world won't crumble.

Oh. Get a brown neat instead of one of the stripes. But since you seem to like gray suits more than blue, I'd focus on the navy, green, and burgundy families if ties.

---
Dark brown captoes are the way to go. If you are wearing dress shoes every day, I'd look at getting three wearable instead of two. You have shoe trees already?
---
Try KW's trial suit. If it is a decent fit, return it and go mtm through him.
post #33191 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by flvinny521 View Post
 

 

I have nothing against brown. In fact, I like a lot of what you post with brown ties. My concern is just wearing grossa grenadines or knits with worsted suits. It's something I've never done before, so I should just do it and get it out of my system. I'm sure my world won't crumble.

 

Look around when you get there.  You'll be surprised by all the things people wear that you currently think are not sufficiently CBD.  For this reason, I'd hold off on buying too much before you start.  Buy enough to get started and then add as you see what is acceptable and commonly worn.

post #33192 of 37408

Noodlers,

 

I'm finalizing my next KW suit, which will be a dark gray pick and pick (a little lighter than charcoal).  Any thoughts on the color of the buttons?  KW recommended dark brown horn, but my instincts tell me black.  FWIW, this is likely the one suit I will wear black shoes with.  Any thoughts?

post #33193 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post


Oh. Get a brown neat instead of one of the stripes. But since you seem to like gray suits more than blue, I'd focus on the navy, green, and burgundy families if ties.

---
Dark brown captoes are the way to go. If you are wearing dress shoes every day, I'd look at getting three wearable instead of two. You have shoe trees already?
---
Try KW's trial suit. If it is a decent fit, return it and go mtm through him.

 

You think the oxblood I mentioned is a bad option? My current black captoe and two new pairs in dark brown? I have shoe trees I got from Jos A Bank a few years ago when they had a good father's day sale. I think I have three pairs, but I might buy another pair or two. Any specific brand I should look for?

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post
 

 

Look around when you get there.  You'll be surprised by all the things people wear that you currently think are not sufficiently CBD.  For this reason, I'd hold off on buying too much before you start.  Buy enough to get started and then add as you see what is acceptable and commonly worn.

 

Good advice, but maybe my post was misleading somehow. I am not planning on changing jobs (although who knows what life will bring), just going to set aside some money that I'll have freed up in the next 2-3 months or so. I've been prioritizing other things (kids, house, wife, etc) and it's well past time for me to get a respectable business wardrobe. The suits and shoes are probably the easiest calls, so I'd want to knock those out first, especially if I'm going to end up using Kent Wang's MTM program for the mid-grey. I know that will take some time.

post #33194 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post
 

Noodlers,

 

I'm finalizing my next KW suit, which will be a dark gray pick and pick (a little lighter than charcoal).  Any thoughts on the color of the buttons?  KW recommended dark brown horn, but my instincts tell me black.  FWIW, this is likely the one suit I will wear black shoes with.  Any thoughts?

 

Grey horn exists and would blend in. Black might be a bit stark, even if the fabric is at the dark end of the grey spectrum (and remember that it will make up lighter than the swatch).

post #33195 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post
 

 

Grey horn exists and would blend in. Black might be a bit stark, even if the fabric is at the dark end of the grey spectrum (and remember that it will make up lighter than the swatch).

 

Grey corozo is an option, but not grey horn.  That is a good point about black being very stark.  Makes me wonder if I should go with the dark brown suggestion.

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