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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2206

post #33076 of 37396

Theres something about mary?

post #33077 of 37396
Formosa pants have tons of buttons but I do not mind them and do not hinder me when I have to go pee pee. I hate zippers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

Your urine ruined pants? Maybe time to change your diet.
one time I farted too hard and the rest is history..
post #33078 of 37396
ZIPPER. 'Nuff said.
post #33079 of 37396
Next BnT fitting. Only thing I would like is a slightly wider leg opening on the suit pants. The angle of the photo makes the torso to leg proportions look a little weird, in reality the pants draped beautifully

Dugdale blue hopsack




Drapers green linen


post #33080 of 37396
Pity you'll miss summer by the time it's finished but the green linen is fantastic.
post #33081 of 37396
Both pieces are due for delivery by first week of Feb so hopefully they will get at least a few weeks of wear! Love the green. The blue is great too, it looks quite 'unsettled' in the picture, but that's a combination of the quick pose and the thin (9 oz) cloth.
post #33082 of 37396

They are looking amazing!! I am happy you noticed that thing about your trousers. Maybe it is because I have a very trained eye for that because I have been into competitive sports since I was a little boy but I notice people usually don't pay attention to that, not even people who pay attention to other little things. People get very worried about many things but they tend forget to look "even" top and bottom. 

 

That said, both suit and jacket are going to look fantastic. Specially that green jacket. The color is beautiful. I am after a green jacket myself but not as dark.

Only a  month to go then. :fonz:

post #33083 of 37396
Thanks dude!
post #33084 of 37396

Looks great Sebastian.  One question for you and two for the forum.  For you - where is the buttoning point going to be?  My sense of where it will be from the photos leads me to ask if it will be a little high and then for the forum in general - is that a trade off with the Liverano/BnT/Florentine cut - the "arc" requires a higher button point than many might ordinarily prefer?  I ask b/c that analysis @mossrockss  recently did combined with some IG photos from Gusvs9 reminded me of the beauty of the Liverano sillouette and sparked my desire to get a jacket done.  So my question is - are there options for me in NYC other than waiting for BnT's MTM program to get up and running? Eidos is no longer doing MTM, so that is out.  $7,200 and a year wait from Liverano himself is out.

 

 :violin:

post #33085 of 37396
There is no buttoning point yet - the front is still held together with tape and string. But my sense is the buttoning point will be slightly lower than the point at which it is temporarily fastened in the pics
post #33086 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillingToLearn View Post
 

So my question is - are there options for me in NYC other than waiting for BnT's MTM program to get up and running? Eidos is no longer doing MTM, so that is out.  $7,200 and a year wait from Liverano himself is out.

 

 :violin:

 

 

Kent Wang?

post #33087 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post

Next BnT fitting. Only thing I would like is a slightly wider leg opening on the suit pants. The angle of the photo makes the torso to leg proportions look a little weird, in reality the pants draped beautifully

Sebastian, both look excellent. Is this your first foray into the world of bespoke?

I think you are correct about the leg opening. One thing I have noticed -- in a robo-pose, a leg opening looks rather flattering when it is narrow. However, when you are moving, the tidiness really falls apart. Once the inner workings of the coat are complete, I am sure it will lose that "unsettled look."

Also, is there some slight roping at the sleevehead? Personally, I really like a little bit of roping.

BnT really does some excellent work. I am consistently impressed, especially at the price point. In the same way that Vox uses both Steed and NSM, I really wish I had BnT as my corollary to Despos. Also, very nice fabric choices. I particularly like the green.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillingToLearn View Post

Looks great Sebastian.  One question for you and two for the forum.  For you - where is the buttoning point going to be?  My sense of where it will be from the photos leads me to ask if it will be a little high and then for the forum in general - is that a trade off with the Liverano/BnT/Florentine cut - the "arc" requires a higher button point than many might ordinarily prefer?  I ask b/c that analysis @mossrockss
  recently did combined with some IG photos from Gusvs9 reminded me of the beauty of the Liverano sillouette and sparked my desire to get a jacket done.  So my question is - are there options for me in NYC other than waiting for BnT's MTM program to get up and running? Eidos is no longer doing MTM, so that is out.  $7,200 and a year wait from Liverano himself is out.

 musicboohoo%5B1%5D.gif

I really think that only Liverano does the Liverano cut well. However, I really do like how BnT cuts their suits. I guess it is similar to the Liverano cut, but a little bit less extreme. I find that a Liverano suit - on some - can come across a bit gimmicky. They are beautiful, but I do not think that the silhouette fits all shapes and sizes. BnT seems to conform the cut of their jackets a little bit more to the client. I think the buttoning point on the BnT is slightly higher than the buttoning point on most Liveranos. However, I believe that the buttoning point on most Liverano and BnT suits is below the typical OTR garment, i.e., Eidos Tipo, Isaia Base S, etc. However, in general, bespoke jackets tend to be longer, i.e., a proper length, which may give the appearance of a higher buttoning point, i.e., higher relative to the bottom of the jacket. Most OTR suits now-a-days have a higher buttoning point, and they are very short. Thus, there is a smaller amount of visual space between the bottom of the jacket and the buttoning point, perhaps giving the appearance that the buttoning point is lower.

Just for the sake of comparison, here are some examples:

Liverano:



BnT:



And then for fun, this is my first commission from Chris - I post it because you asked if there were any tailors that could "replicate" the Liverano silhouette. I did not visit Chris because I wanted a Liverano suit, or a Steed suit, or a suit from anyone but him, but he definitely made me a suit that catered to what I find visually appealing. I was wearing an Eidos jacket when I first saw him, and he asked me if I liked that "x" type of shape. I told him that I like the look of sweeping quarters, we discussed all matters of details, and he made me a suit that he knew I would enjoy. I guess I am trying to say that you are not confined to a set style with a particular tailor. And a great tailor will be able to figure out the details that are important to you. I think that Clags' BnT suits look "less BnT" than some of their other suits, but they cater to his conservative nature.




For similar results, check out Whnay's rubinacci suits, and compare them to what they typically cut.
post #33088 of 37396

Thanks for that thoughtful reply Newcomer.  I am leery / have been admonished not to go to a tailor and try to get him to change from the house style too much.  That said, your outcome with Despos and his desire to cut a different pattern to your desires is encouraging. 

post #33089 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillingToLearn View Post

Thanks for that thoughtful reply Newcomer.  I am leery / have been admonished not to go to a tailor and try to get him to change from the house style too much.  That said, your outcome with Despos and his desire to cut a different pattern to your desires is encouraging. 

It is a balancing act. I think that we sometimes over-simplify our suits - and, far more importantly, the tailors that make them - so the information can be more easily digested for internet consumption. I often hear the refrain, "go here if you want this type of suit," or "go there if you want that type of detail," in a manner that suggests that a tailor can be pigeon-holed into a certain style, that there are certain trade-marked details that only one tailor can do.

With that said, I also think it is imprudent to go to a tailor who cuts one style, and ask for something completely different. Nonetheless, small visual cues can go a long way. The lapels on my suit have less belly and the quarters sweep a bit more than Patrick's suit - these minor changes have a massive visual impact on the final product. Other than that, both our jackets have a closely cut chest, slight roping in the shoulders, etc.

I always find it slightly humorous that Vox is frequently cited as the benchmark for Steed. Funny enough, Vox's Steeds are perhaps the least Steedy of the Steeds (eloquently stated, I know). Presumably, Steed and Vox have worked together long enough that Steed understand what Vox wants, and vice-versa.



cf.


post #33090 of 37396

What is the "typical" Steed cut, and how does Vox's differ greatly from it?

 

There seems to be some things I notice across the pics, but the views of someone with far more expertise would be well received.

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