Theres something about mary?
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How Should I Start My Business Wardrobe?
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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2206post #33076 of 3753312/31/15 at 9:48pmpost #33077 of 375331/1/16 at 8:03ampost #33078 of 375331/1/16 at 8:55pmpost #33079 of 375331/2/16 at 3:25ampost #33080 of 375331/2/16 at 3:31ampost #33081 of 375331/2/16 at 3:35ampost #33082 of 375331/2/16 at 3:44am
They are looking amazing!! I am happy you noticed that thing about your trousers. Maybe it is because I have a very trained eye for that because I have been into competitive sports since I was a little boy but I notice people usually don't pay attention to that, not even people who pay attention to other little things. People get very worried about many things but they tend forget to look "even" top and bottom.
That said, both suit and jacket are going to look fantastic. Specially that green jacket. The color is beautiful. I am after a green jacket myself but not as dark.
Only a month to go then.post #33083 of 375331/2/16 at 3:50ampost #33084 of 375331/2/16 at 5:27am
Looks great Sebastian. One question for you and two for the forum. For you - where is the buttoning point going to be? My sense of where it will be from the photos leads me to ask if it will be a little high and then for the forum in general - is that a trade off with the Liverano/BnT/Florentine cut - the "arc" requires a higher button point than many might ordinarily prefer? I ask b/c that analysis @mossrockss recently did combined with some IG photos from Gusvs9 reminded me of the beauty of the Liverano sillouette and sparked my desire to get a jacket done. So my question is - are there options for me in NYC other than waiting for BnT's MTM program to get up and running? Eidos is no longer doing MTM, so that is out. $7,200 and a year wait from Liverano himself is out.post #33085 of 375331/2/16 at 6:25ampost #33086 of 375331/2/16 at 8:30ampost #33087 of 375331/2/16 at 10:31amQuote:
Sebastian, both look excellent. Is this your first foray into the world of bespoke?
I think you are correct about the leg opening. One thing I have noticed -- in a robo-pose, a leg opening looks rather flattering when it is narrow. However, when you are moving, the tidiness really falls apart. Once the inner workings of the coat are complete, I am sure it will lose that "unsettled look."
Also, is there some slight roping at the sleevehead? Personally, I really like a little bit of roping.
BnT really does some excellent work. I am consistently impressed, especially at the price point. In the same way that Vox uses both Steed and NSM, I really wish I had BnT as my corollary to Despos. Also, very nice fabric choices. I particularly like the green.Quote:Originally Posted by WillingToLearn
Looks great Sebastian. One question for you and two for the forum. For you - where is the buttoning point going to be? My sense of where it will be from the photos leads me to ask if it will be a little high and then for the forum in general - is that a trade off with the Liverano/BnT/Florentine cut - the "arc" requires a higher button point than many might ordinarily prefer? I ask b/c that analysis @mossrockss
recently did combined with some IG photos from Gusvs9 reminded me of the beauty of the Liverano sillouette and sparked my desire to get a jacket done. So my question is - are there options for me in NYC other than waiting for BnT's MTM program to get up and running? Eidos is no longer doing MTM, so that is out. $7,200 and a year wait from Liverano himself is out.
I really think that only Liverano does the Liverano cut well. However, I really do like how BnT cuts their suits. I guess it is similar to the Liverano cut, but a little bit less extreme. I find that a Liverano suit - on some - can come across a bit gimmicky. They are beautiful, but I do not think that the silhouette fits all shapes and sizes. BnT seems to conform the cut of their jackets a little bit more to the client. I think the buttoning point on the BnT is slightly higher than the buttoning point on most Liveranos. However, I believe that the buttoning point on most Liverano and BnT suits is below the typical OTR garment, i.e., Eidos Tipo, Isaia Base S, etc. However, in general, bespoke jackets tend to be longer, i.e., a proper length, which may give the appearance of a higher buttoning point, i.e., higher relative to the bottom of the jacket. Most OTR suits now-a-days have a higher buttoning point, and they are very short. Thus, there is a smaller amount of visual space between the bottom of the jacket and the buttoning point, perhaps giving the appearance that the buttoning point is lower.
Just for the sake of comparison, here are some examples:
And then for fun, this is my first commission from Chris - I post it because you asked if there were any tailors that could "replicate" the Liverano silhouette. I did not visit Chris because I wanted a Liverano suit, or a Steed suit, or a suit from anyone but him, but he definitely made me a suit that catered to what I find visually appealing. I was wearing an Eidos jacket when I first saw him, and he asked me if I liked that "x" type of shape. I told him that I like the look of sweeping quarters, we discussed all matters of details, and he made me a suit that he knew I would enjoy. I guess I am trying to say that you are not confined to a set style with a particular tailor. And a great tailor will be able to figure out the details that are important to you. I think that Clags' BnT suits look "less BnT" than some of their other suits, but they cater to his conservative nature.
For similar results, check out Whnay's rubinacci suits, and compare them to what they typically cut.post #33088 of 375331/2/16 at 10:52ampost #33089 of 375331/2/16 at 11:21amQuote:Originally Posted by WillingToLearn
Thanks for that thoughtful reply Newcomer. I am leery / have been admonished not to go to a tailor and try to get him to change from the house style too much. That said, your outcome with Despos and his desire to cut a different pattern to your desires is encouraging.
It is a balancing act. I think that we sometimes over-simplify our suits - and, far more importantly, the tailors that make them - so the information can be more easily digested for internet consumption. I often hear the refrain, "go here if you want this type of suit," or "go there if you want that type of detail," in a manner that suggests that a tailor can be pigeon-holed into a certain style, that there are certain trade-marked details that only one tailor can do.
With that said, I also think it is imprudent to go to a tailor who cuts one style, and ask for something completely different. Nonetheless, small visual cues can go a long way. The lapels on my suit have less belly and the quarters sweep a bit more than Patrick's suit - these minor changes have a massive visual impact on the final product. Other than that, both our jackets have a closely cut chest, slight roping in the shoulders, etc.
I always find it slightly humorous that Vox is frequently cited as the benchmark for Steed. Funny enough, Vox's Steeds are perhaps the least Steedy of the Steeds (eloquently stated, I know). Presumably, Steed and Vox have worked together long enough that Steed understand what Vox wants, and vice-versa.
cf.post #33090 of 375331/2/16 at 1:13pm
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