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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2195

post #32911 of 37396

Each to his own, but wider knit tie would, I think, lead logically to a grossa grenadine

post #32912 of 37396
I like wider knits. They should be more narrow at the area where the knot is tied though, IMHO.
post #32913 of 37396
I realize it's probably an unfair bias, but I have a hard time trusting $35 for a good knit tie.
post #32914 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post

I realize it's probably an unfair bias, but I have a hard time trusting $35 for a good knit tie.

It's $35...just find out for yourself. I took a chance on someone's reccomendation and was really happy with them. I've worn them both multiple times and have had no issues. Just in case you are wondering...yes, I paid full price for them. They weren't given to me.
post #32915 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post

 

Often times online MTM is more difficult to nail down fit with than OTR. 

FTFY....if you have a good alterations tailor, this is very true.

Please click back a few pages to hear my most recent alterations escapade.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by flvinny521 View Post

I found a local custom tailor that I'm interested in trying, but I want to clarify the process before taking the time to commit to an initial meeting. This is what I've asked so far; are there any questions I've missed that I should ask before deciding to go for it?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Good afternoon,

I was referred to you by a client of yours, C*** P***. I have some questions about the exact services you provide and your process.

First, is yours a bespoke process with multiple fitting sessions during creation of a  garment, or an in-person made-to-measure where the first visit will result in the creation of a pattern and then no additional fittings until the garment is created? If multiple visits, how many sessions does it normally take for a new client, and with how much time between them? Do you personally create each garment or are the patterns sent elsewhere to be created?

How much input does the client have in the customization of the details of a piece? For example, the size/shape of lapels.  Do you have a few standard layouts to choose from or do I have full say (with your input) over the final garment?

I would prefer to do one test piece before committing thousands of dollars on a larger order. I noticed that your shirts seem to be a minimum of 6. Do you allow for one "trial" shirt to be ordered in any circumstances, for example, if I wanted the 2 suit/6 shirt package, could you do only the first shirt as a test with the rest of the payment due upon my satisfaction with that shirt?

Finally, once the completed garment is presented, what is your remake/alteration policy? If I am unhappy, will you remake the garment with no additional charge until I am satisfied? If not, what is your policy?

Here are the sites if anybody's curious. Anything I should see as a red flag there? I noticed a few of the pics commit SF sins such as shirt collars too narrow to reach the jacket lapel, but I'm not sure if that's serious enough to stay away altogether, especially since there is a serious lack of competition at these prices (the 2 suit/6 shirt deal I mentioned is $1,999, although there's no mention of fabric choices).

http://fitwellcustomtailors.com/ and http://fitwellsuits.com/

Apart from the poor taste, poor fit and uninspiring fabric choices exhibited in the few provided sample pics, a major red flag to me would be the name. Sites that emphasise their major selling point in their domain name, usually provide the opposite result. Like loseweightfast.com or datehotchicks.com etc.

Let's not beat around the bush, here... Bottom line it for me. I'm ready to commission a full wardrobe replacement from this guy!
post #32916 of 37396
Thread Starter 

No matter where you go, start slow. Commission a single piece at a time. Do this for two reasons. It allows you to determine the competence of a tailor before you sink a bunch of money into him. It also means that each subsequent commission is better than the previous one.

 

As far as this particular tailor, I know nothing about him but I have heard horror stories about the availability of decent tailors in Florida.

 

 

They also seem to use pictures of other tailors. For example, they include this picture of our @David Reeves on their Facebook.

 

and instead of showing their work, they show a lot of images from ads and advertisments and a few stock images. The one piece of work I can find that certainly is theirs doesn't inspire confidence:

 

about-us-headshot

 

Though it isn't much to go on, what we do see really shouldn't inspire confidence (shoulder issues and a massive collar gap).

 

----

 

Bottom Line

 

I would strongly advise you to look elsewhere and look with patience. If there is a Suit Supply nearby, try on some of their models. If they fit decently, enquire into their MTM program. Or order a trial suit from Kent Wang. If it fits well, return it and use him for MTM (if it doesn't, then it's better to try and find in person MTM or bespoke). You also might keep an eye out for any decent traveling tailors, though I don't know of any that come to Florida.

post #32917 of 37396

I have a feeling that the mitred-bottom knit is an internet-inspired compromise for ppl who aren't comfortable with a square ended tie.  Anyone know  the pointed knit provenance?  pictures in Esky or AA?

 

 

imo a proper knit tie must have the square end.  If you don't like the square end, consider staying with grenadine or woven silk ties.  

post #32918 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post

Currently sold out, but Knottery ties are well regarded here, and they are 8.5 cm. Kent Wang has them in 7 cm.


Light blue. Navy. White. Cream. Light pink. 

Is mid-olive considered an old man color? Trying to see if I should cop. Sale at bb.

Would work with navy or pinkish polo
post #32919 of 37396
Thread Starter 

Also, I really could use some good natured advice on this endeavor (a tutorial I'm working on with Kent Wang):

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/151480/kent-wang-affiliate-thread/5120_20#post_8239400

post #32920 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuP View Post


Is mid-olive considered an old man color? Trying to see if I should cop. Sale at bb.

Would work with navy or pinkish polo

 

It appears that we now have a very well defined class system at SF to help us distinguish between the upper, middle and lower class.  As you are in a lower class, I choose not to answer your post.

post #32921 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

It appears that we now have a very well defined class system at SF to help us distinguish between the upper, middle and lower class.  As you are in a lower class, I choose not to answer your post.

Making things simpler for simple folk.
post #32922 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post

I realize it's probably an unfair bias, but I have a hard time trusting $35 for a good knit tie.

 

 

They're really pretty good.

 

post #32923 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

No matter where you go, start slow. Commission a single piece at a time. Do this for two reasons. It allows you to determine the competence of a tailor before you sink a bunch of money into him. It also means that each subsequent commission is better than the previous one.

 

As far as this particular tailor, I know nothing about him but I have heard horror stories about the availability of decent tailors in Florida.

 

 

They also seem to use pictures of other tailors. For example, they include this picture of our @David Reeves on their Facebook.

 

and instead of showing their work, they show a lot of images from ads and advertisments and a few stock images. The one piece of work I can find that certainly is theirs doesn't inspire confidence:

 

about-us-headshot

 

Though it isn't much to go on, what we do see really shouldn't inspire confidence (shoulder issues and a massive collar gap).

 

----

 

Bottom Line

 

I would strongly advise you to look elsewhere and look with patience. If there is a Suit Supply nearby, try on some of their models. If they fit decently, enquire into their MTM program. Or order a trial suit from Kent Wang. If it fits well, return it and use him for MTM (if it doesn't, then it's better to try and find in person MTM or bespoke). You also might keep an eye out for any decent traveling tailors, though I don't know of any that come to Florida.

 

 

Thank you for taking the time to go through all of that, but my "bottom line it for me" was a joke; he was pretty blunt about damn near everything being a disaster on that website.

post #32924 of 37396
Thread Starter 
And taking other images of other tailors or from other makers without acknowledgement?

Regardless, the only example of his work I've seen is the line picture on his website, a jacket which is disastrous (which has nothing to do with the website).

All I'm suggesting is that until some experienced eyes (yours, if you are experienced, or someone else's) can speak to the quality of this guy's work, I'd ease up off the gas pedal.

Though I don't know, maybe you were joking about going to this guy for several commissions?
post #32925 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

And taking other images of other tailors or from other makers without acknowledgement?

Regardless, the only example of his work I've seen is the line picture on his website, a jacket which is disastrous (which has nothing to do with the website).

All I'm suggesting is that until some experienced eyes (yours, if you are experienced, or someone else's) can speak to the quality of this guy's work, I'd ease up off the gas pedal.

Though I don't know, maybe you were joking about going to this guy for several commissions?

 

Yeah, that was a joke as well. Sorry I didn't make that more obvious.

 

Using a photo of another tailor and their work is pretty terrible, and if he replies to my e-mail, I plan to ask him about that photo in as non-threatening a manner as I can. If I do decide to investigate further (which I am far less enthusiastic about today than when I was first referred to him), I will try to find somebody knowledgeable to come along. Any south Florida SFers available for an afternoon?

 

Oh, and the only SuSu models that I liked (although I haven't tried them all by any means) were the York and Hartford cuts, and I think I remembered reading that their MTM is based off a Napoli or something like that.

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