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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2169

post #32521 of 37396
Noodlers can this shoe be substituted for a basic black captoe?
post #32522 of 37396
^ No for me.
post #32523 of 37396

It's nothing personal, but the fabrics and interlinings used in even high-end RTW clothing are generally limper and the skirts and armscye look less clean. It's not really a problem if you like the overall look and the make is of generally high quality; no one is going to notice. But to take the inverse, you can spot bespoke clothing 10 miles away for its articulation. If you take a mechanistic approach to it and consider that your body interfacing with the suit as a question of millimeters and adjustments, then a good anatomical fit in a prefabbed item may satisfy. But if you are looking for that extra articulation, you are going to be hard pressed to find that. Put aside all notions of handcraft, romance, swag, status, bragging rights, ephemera and obscurantism, weird vintage cloth unicorns found in the back of a tailor's shop in Malta -- all of that is useless PR that we so greedily swallow. But I think there is room for improvement in your outfits, which generally look flat and crinkly -- well put together, but flat and crinkly.

post #32524 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

Noodlers can this shoe be substituted for a basic black captoe? Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Not for me.  Pebble grain is much less formal.  Looks best in my opinion with things like brogues, wingtips, etc.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #32525 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

It's nothing personal, but the fabrics and interlinings used in even high-end RTW clothing are generally limper and the skirts and armscye look less clean. It's not really a problem if you like the overall look and the make is of generally high quality; no one is going to notice. But to take the inverse, you can spot bespoke clothing 10 miles away for its articulation. If you take a mechanistic approach to it and consider that your body interfacing with the suit as a question of millimeters and adjustments, then a good anatomical fit in a prefabbed item may satisfy. But if you are looking for that extra articulation, you are going to be hard pressed to find that. Put aside all notions of handcraft, romance, swag, status, bragging rights, ephemera and obscurantism, weird vintage cloth unicorns found in the back of a tailor's shop in Malta -- all of that is useless PR that we so greedily swallow. But I think there is room for improvement in your outfits, which generally look flat and crinkly -- well put together, but flat and crinkly.

Was that for me? If it was I dont want to say or claim to be best dressed, but I think I do a decent job. I also have a great talent of taking pictures of my fits. I take no offense either to what you are saying either, I think its important to be able to take criticism.

My other side of the situation is that I work in an environment where I am constantly moving and having something bespoke/perfect might be less than ideal in the environment that I work in. If I was sitting in an office, or in court then maybe having something of that nature might be great. Working in retail, where every day brings a new challenge from moving product, moving fixtures, etc might not be the best place for a bespoke jacket. My 0.02.
post #32526 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

^ No for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post

Not for me.  Pebble grain is much less formal.  Looks best in my opinion with things like brogues, wingtips, etc.

Cheers,

Ac

I was thinking the same thing for pebble grain, but they made it into a sleek captoe which seems to me like it was meant for something formal with a twist. I think it will work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

It's nothing personal, but the fabrics and interlinings used in even high-end RTW clothing are generally limper and the skirts and armscye look less clean. It's not really a problem if you like the overall look and the make is of generally high quality; no one is going to notice. But to take the inverse, you can spot bespoke clothing 10 miles away for its articulation. If you take a mechanistic approach to it and consider that your body interfacing with the suit as a question of millimeters and adjustments, then a good anatomical fit in a prefabbed item may satisfy. But if you are looking for that extra articulation, you are going to be hard pressed to find that. Put aside all notions of handcraft, romance, swag, status, bragging rights, ephemera and obscurantism, weird vintage cloth unicorns found in the back of a tailor's shop in Malta -- all of that is useless PR that we so greedily swallow. But I think there is room for improvement in your outfits, which generally look flat and crinkly -- well put together, but flat and crinkly.

The rtw Formosa's look like the are bespoke. I've seen a customer of Greg's put the jacket on for the first time and it looked better than any jacket I had ever seen. If a rtw cut works for your body there is in fact no need for bespoke unless you're looking for something particular. I just wish I could fit into one those Formosa suits shog[1].gif.
post #32527 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by europrep View Post

Pretty much sums up my thoughts as well.  Although I am a bit perplexed how Ron ever offered these in the $400 range...
my initial impression is the same. For the price I paid, I have no qualms with the purchase. I don't know how these could have moved at full price though, given the alternatives available in the market.
post #32528 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by justinkapur View Post

Was that for me? If it was I dont want to say or claim to be best dressed, but I think I do a decent job. I also have a great talent of taking pictures of my fits. I take no offense either to what you are saying either, I think its important to be able to take criticism.

My other side of the situation is that I work in an environment where I am constantly moving and having something bespoke/perfect might be less than ideal in the environment that I work in. If I was sitting in an office, or in court then maybe having something of that nature might be great. Working in retail, where every day brings a new challenge from moving product, moving fixtures, etc might not be the best place for a bespoke jacket. My 0.02.

Id be curious as to the follow up regarding your fits. I don't think your photos do your fits justice. I want to say I recall a full fit pic (at a wedding?) with your wife/gf where I thought your suit looked exceptional. Maybe not QUITE bespoke (in the sense that it is PERFECT) but damn good nonetheless, and only a real kook about fit (i.e. Us fellas here lol) would know anything about the difference.

All in all, I'd say go for bespoke given the money you're willing to drop on clothing, but that admittedly doesn't take into account the ease in which you for RTW. I fit RTW about as poorly as you possibly can, so I'm certainly biased in that regard.

More than anything, I think I'm curious to know what flat and crinkly means. Of all the minor niggles one might have about your fits, I'm hard pressed to imagine either flat or crinkly being one of them.

Flat and crinkly is something I'd equate with shit Men's Wearhouse products.
post #32529 of 37396

What do you guys think is the most versatile/wearable spring/summer tie. I have a few in mind, but I'm interested in what you guys think.

post #32530 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post
But I think there is room for improvement in your outfits, which generally look flat and crinkly -- well put together, but flat and crinkly.

intersting comment to make considering most of justin's pics aren't full body shots/ are in weird angles. but if you can judge like that, all the more power to you.

post #32531 of 37396
Looking forward to the comprehensive list of worthwhile tailors who will make a bespoke sport coat for $1,300.
post #32532 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrizzy View Post

What do you guys think is the most versatile/wearable spring/summer tie. I have a few in mind, but I'm interested in what you guys think.
Solid silk knit.
post #32533 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post

Looking forward to the comprehensive list of worthwhile tailors who will make a bespoke sport coat for $1,300.

And on the west coast.
post #32534 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by justinkapur View Post


Was that for me? If it was I dont want to say or claim to be best dressed, but I think I do a decent job. I also have a great talent of taking pictures of my fits. I take no offense either to what you are saying either, I think its important to be able to take criticism.

My other side of the situation is that I work in an environment where I am constantly moving and having something bespoke/perfect might be less than ideal in the environment that I work in. If I was sitting in an office, or in court then maybe having something of that nature might be great. Working in retail, where every day brings a new challenge from moving product, moving fixtures, etc might not be the best place for a bespoke jacket. My 0.02.

 

All good points, but my main thinking is that $1900 is a shit ton of money to spent on RTW clothing, and $1300 on a non-returnable item is pretty fast and loose way to spend. If you're going to play fast and loose, might as well go custom, where there are no returns anyway! :D

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post



I was thinking the same thing for pebble grain, but they made it into a sleek captoe which seems to me like it was meant for something formal with a twist. I think it will work.
The rtw Formosa's look like the are bespoke. I've seen a customer of Greg's put the jacket on for the first time and it looked better than any jacket I had ever seen. If a rtw cut works for your body there is in fact no need for bespoke unless you're looking for something particular. I just wish I could fit into one those Formosa suits shog[1].gif.

 

I was going to add a few lines about how even "factory bespoke" operations generally can't scale and maintain that kind of quality. The Formosa thing is sui generis, don't you think? Those are literally small-production runs of bespoke suits made to a single spec. Of course they have the hallmarks of custom.

 

I have seen the MTM Orazio Luciano stuff on people and it looks pretty great, but I don't think same build quality is there in pret a porter.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post

Looking forward to the comprehensive list of worthwhile tailors who will make a bespoke sport coat for $1,300.

 

The reason they're $1300 is because a comprehensive list hasn't been made and the prices therefore haven't been inflated by bracelet-wearing bloggers! OK, but realistically, 1600 and up should get you quality in a B-class city that has proximity to major cultural destinations but isn't itself a financial capital. You don't have to go to China. But you don't have to go to New York, London, Naples, or Milan, either...

post #32535 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post
 

intersting comment to make considering most of justin's pics aren't full body shots/ are in weird angles. but if you can judge like that, all the more power to you.

 

Totally agree, but this is a known quantity and the tables may be turned once that is changed.

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