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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2107

post #31591 of 37395

Hi All, I'm still new to understanding fabric weights

 

For sportcoats, what is typical weight range (oz) for F/W, S/S, and 4-Season fabrics? 

 

Thanks

post #31592 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by patliean1 View Post

Hi All, I'm still new to understanding fabric weights

For sportcoats, what is typical weight range (oz) for F/W, S/S, and 4-Season fabrics? 

Thanks

Depends where you live and on your own range of comfort. Flannels will wear warmer than typical worsteds by an ounce (more for some). I've seen people argue for 9-13 ounces for 3 season type cloths.
post #31593 of 37395

I'm intrigued by the Finamore 1925 ties.  Does anyone else have any experiences with their ties (particularyl 7 folds) and knotting? 

post #31594 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

My favorite blue jacket is beginning to show signs of wear. Not quite. Nothing tangible or visible. But it's beginning to look very comfortable. It's both a good thing and a bad thing. Anyway, this will be the last season it gets heavy wear (3-4 times a month). This means I'll be needing to replace it. While I have plenty of blue jackets, this is my only "standard" blue jacket. Nothing really idiosyncratic about it.

So while I know I was intending on getting another brown first...I'm getting a blue jacket. I'm thinking one of these blues from Kent Wang:

Thoughts? Outside of "don't get more blue, Claghorn, you fucking nut"

TRV41 looks amazing if you need to replace your standard blue jacket. Almost a light navy.
post #31595 of 37395
Clags, if you email them, they have even more swatches/books that aren't on the website that are only in the NY/London offices
post #31596 of 37395
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the info, but TRV41 is definitely what I'm thinking of. Kent knows what I look for in my blues and may recommend some fabrics.
post #31597 of 37395
Any advice on which of Hober's burgundy/plum ties is most versatile? Something that could be worn with both flannel and hopsack would be ideal
post #31598 of 37395

Hober Burgundy wool challis with flannel.  not sure how it would go with hopsack, but should be fine, to my mind.  I also just got a tie from the new wool silk blend and i think it might be too similar in bumpy/rough texture to hopsack, but these are pretty picky thoughts.  I love this tie:

 

LL

post #31599 of 37395
Thread Starter 
Plum Thai shot silk. Worn it with both winter and summer fabrics.




post #31600 of 37395
Lovely. I already have a shantung silk burgundy tie (with subtle white dots), so probably looking for something less slubby
post #31601 of 37395
If you get a jacket made from Draper fabric in AUS BnT then I am assuming that its price will be much cheaper than the ROK BnT since ROK government imposes heavy tariff on imported fabric, right @Claghorn?
post #31602 of 37395
Nope, because the jacket is still made in Korea, only the initial measurements and adjustments are made in Australia.
post #31603 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

I don't think you need tapering. Have the tailor clean up the seat so that the pants drape better around the thighs. That's it. LEAVE THE JACKETS ALONE, NOODLES.

This. Tapering is not going to help you here I dont think, and I bet in motion they look fine. Not to mention, I can almost guarantee you that after the taper the pants will be less comfortable. Especially when sitting down. Which I bet is how you spend most of your day. Im not even sure you should mess with the seat unless you have a huge amount of excess fabric, which I do not think you do.

Dont alter clothing for the sake of how they look in pictures, or how you look standing like a robot. It never ends well.

You could take the sleeves up a touch on the PoW.
post #31604 of 37395
Thread Starter 
Indeed. You should tailor your clothing based on what you will be doing most often in it. If you are desk jockey, bring your chair to your tailor and demand he fit you whilst you are beseated. If you plan on moving about a bit, stick your tailor in the chair (I assume it rolls about) and have him take measurements as you pace back and forth, with him rolling behind you.

Stitchy and I have had this disagreement before. We both agree that a picture is a bad way to determine whether clothing fits. And we both agree that seeing it in person is the best way to determine fit and short that, video.

But I think that if you are going to gauge fit by a picture, a natural upright pose--the one your tailor will tell you to assume when he measures you--is the way to go. Whereas Stitchy feels the best way to capture fit in a picture is to lean against a graffitied wall with a hand in his pocket. I assume that this is how edmorel takes his measurements.

(Actually, neither he nor I try to capture fit in our pictures. He on principle and I because it is too much bother to take multiple pictures and I'm not generally going to waste mine on a proper (i.e. relaxed and natural) robopose. There is a reason why the Greeks championed contrapposto.)
post #31605 of 37395
It always amuses me that when people comment on poor fit, the typical response is "you can't possibly judge that from a pic", while if a photo appears to show good fitting garments, people can't stop raving about it.
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