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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2058

post #30856 of 37396

When would you be wearing it?

post #30857 of 37396
I'll either be picking up a hudson or jort this fall/winter- it's been asked before, but is the Jort worth the premium? I see from your instagram posts that a few of you have both.
post #30858 of 37396

Jort might be worth the premium if the cut suits your frame.

 

SuSu have two "premium" lines: La Spalla and Jort. Both feature full canvas, higher-quality fabrics and more hand-stitching. However, they are somewhat different in shape. I can't be more specific here, but what I can say is that the La Spalla block suits my frame really well, but Jort doesn't.

 

Bear this in mind when ordering online, and be prepared to send it back if the cut doesn't work for you, even if the size appears to be correct.

post #30859 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

When would you be wearing it?
I'm looking for something that is versatile. I want it to be wearable at my business casual office, and also out on a date. I think I'm leaning towards the Hudson with flecks of blue that Claghorn and Koala also liked.
post #30860 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by CBrown85 View Post

I'll either be picking up a hudson or jort this fall/winter- it's been asked before, but is the Jort worth the premium? I see from your instagram posts that a few of you have both.


I've several different models from SuSu, and to me the quality difference is significant. That said, for a work suit I rather go cheaper. I keep the good stuff for important meetings and my free time :)

post #30861 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EUtroll View Post
 


I've several different models from SuSu, and to me the quality difference is significant. That said, for a work suit I rather go cheaper. I keep the good stuff for important meetings and my free time :)

 

Why, do most of your meetings involve mud wrestling?

post #30862 of 37396

If possible, could someone more sartorially adept than I give a basic rundown of weave formality when it comes to shirting? I recently had a royal oxford cloth shirt made (thankfully) with FC's, but, beyond that and oxford, I'm not quite sure what the list from casual to formal ought to be.

post #30863 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post
 

If possible, could someone more sartorially adept than I give a basic rundown of weave formality when it comes to shirting? I recently had a royal oxford cloth shirt made (thankfully) with FC's, but, beyond that and oxford, I'm not quite sure what the list from casual to formal ought to be.

I don't know that I'm more sartorially adept than you are (in fact likely less), but my general sense is that th finer the weave the more formal the weave, however, all bets are off with black tie and above. There are quite a few black tie shirts out there with highly textured weaves, and I'm afraid I know very little about that world.

post #30864 of 37396

For formal wear, a piqué weave is appropriate (e.g. honeycomb-front...I believe it has another name too). The piqué would probably be employed for collar, cuffs and chest panels, with the rest of the shirt in a very fine poplin.

 

Of course, then there are various rouched/gathered shirt fronts, which personally I loathe, but that doesn't make them wrong.

 

For business, I would say that the more easily discernible the weave pattern, the less formal the shirt. Hence  poplin > twill > chambray > oxford cloth.

 

I'm no expert, so I'd be interested in replies from others.

post #30865 of 37396
^ I think that's roughly right.
post #30866 of 37396

I've decided, quite randomly, to try get Steed MTM, see if I can improve on the fit I have with my current tailor (Improve is subjective of course, I want it better in my eyes). I think I'll just start with getting a jacket. Not sure what to get. I'm thinking since it'll be one of my more expensive pieces (slightly cheaper than Chan), I should get something staple, instead of a fun piece.

 

Currently I have:

 

Mid Gray + French Blue DB Flannel Suit

Blue Worsted with subtle Check Suit

Blue Herringbone Tweed 3r2 SC

Orange/Brown Fox Check Tweed 3r2.5 SC

Charcoal Gunclub Flannel 3r2 SC

Brown/Cream Houndstooth 3r2.5 SC

 

Brown on Gray windowpane Light Flannel 3r2.5SC

Zenga Black SB 2btn 2pc

French Blue Fresco DB Blazersuit

Gray end-on-end sb 1 button peak suit

Dark Gray Herringbone db suit

 

Summer Unlined:

Fresco (Dugdale NFW) Dark Navy + Mid Gray Glen Plaid SB Peak 3pc

Brown Hopsack 2btn SC

Racing Green 3r2 sb 3pc

Chocolate Brown Linen 2pc

Khaki Linen 2pc

 

Should I take a picture? I'm getting a charcoal glen plaid db 2pc and dark navy mohair solid blazersuit this christmas on top of this.

 

You guys all know I don't have a proper job so my entire wardrobe is filled with weird stuff, but I do think I generally have most of the bases covered. I'm not interested in cotton or anything. I guess I lack a really standard charcoal 2pc but like, I have gray flannel db, I have a black worsted, I have glenplaid gray. I don't really do anything super formal where a black suit wouldn't work (idk black suits are fine for asians imo), so I don't think I need one.

post #30867 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

I've decided, quite randomly, to try get Steed MTM, see if I can improve on the fit I have with my current tailor (Improve is subjective of course, I want it better in my eyes). I think I'll just start with getting a jacket. Not sure what to get. I'm thinking since it'll be one of my more expensive pieces (slightly cheaper than Chan), I should get something staple, instead of a fun piece.

Currently I have:

Mid Gray + French Blue DB Flannel Suit
Blue Worsted with subtle Check Suit
Blue Herringbone Tweed 3r2 SC
Orange/Brown Fox Check Tweed 3r2.5 SC
Charcoal Gunclub Flannel 3r2 SC
Brown/Cream Houndstooth 3r2.5 SC

Brown on Gray windowpane Light Flannel 3r2.5SC
Zenga Black SB 2btn 2pc
French Blue Fresco DB Blazersuit
Gray end-on-end sb 1 button peak suit
Dark Gray Herringbone db suit

Summer Unlined:
Fresco (Dugdale NFW) Dark Navy + Mid Gray Glen Plaid SB Peak 3pc
Brown Hopsack 2btn SC
Racing Green 3r2 sb 3pc
Chocolate Brown Linen 2pc
Khaki Linen 2pc

Should I take a picture? I'm getting a charcoal glen plaid db 2pc and dark navy mohair solid blazersuit this christmas on top of this.

You guys all know I don't have a proper job so my entire wardrobe is filled with weird stuff, but I do think I generally have most of the bases covered. I'm not interested in cotton or anything. I guess I lack a really standard charcoal 2pc but like, I have gray flannel db, I have a black worsted, I have glenplaid gray. I don't really do anything super formal where a black suit wouldn't work (idk black suits are fine for asians imo), so I don't think I need one.

That's quite a list why don't you enjoy the clothes you have?
post #30868 of 37396

I do. I am simply a victim of consumerism.

post #30869 of 37396

^ Interesting that you say black suits are fine for Asians. Possibly true, due to the black hair. I'm not 100% convinced though - I still think a dark charcoal would be better.

 

Skin and hair colour certainly play a part though. I've always felt that men of significant colour (Fitzpatrick V-VI) can get away with richly coloured block fits much more successfully than can a pink-stuff like myself. (I'm too lazy this morning to search for images to support this contention.)

 

I think this might just be down to the very simple fact that brown is an easy colour match - after all, brown is simply an even mixture of reflected light from the entire visible spectrum, so it has all colours in it.

 

How about Asian skin? Often characterised as "yellow", it is in fact more like a mustard colour - reflecting most of the rainbow, but absorbing the bits at either end (violet and to a lesser extent, red). Again, more of the primary colours are reflected by Asian skin than by pale Caucasian (which only reflects red).

post #30870 of 37396
Cox, does your thinking on this extend to formal wear? Should a white man not wear a black tuxedo?
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