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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2056

post #30826 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post

In this case I think the single button and dark fabric almost suggest evening wear.

Or something Huntsman-esque.

 

True, except that the one-button odd jackets from Huntsman that I've seen have been clearly odd jackets (navy, notch lapel), though I've not looked at their website for some months now.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #30827 of 37482

I have a charcoal, 1-button three piece suit with peak lapels that is probably about as formal looking as flannel suits get. The first suit I ever had made (MTM) and got tons of use out of it.

post #30828 of 37482
My understanding is that the standard for Huntsman across the board is a one button coat. I'm sure they make other things, but it's kind of their signature.
post #30829 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

My understanding is that the standard for Huntsman across the board is a one button coat. I'm sure they make other things, but it's kind of their signature.

 

Indeed it is. I just can't recall having seen one of their odd jackets (apart, as I've said, from evening wear) with peak lapels.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #30830 of 37482

Here's the Suit Supply jacket in question:

 

 

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #30831 of 37482

What's the fabric? It looks like maybe a wool-linen blend?

post #30832 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhereNext View Post
 

What's the fabric? It looks like maybe a wool-linen blend?

 

All linen.  Here’s the other blue Washington, which is wool/cashmere:

 

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #30833 of 37482

Completely arbitrary and personal preference warning!

I wouldn't get peak lapels on a linen jacket; it strikes me as being a bit internally incongruous (I think of linen as being very casual and peak lapels as being at least a bit "formal"). The second one is a no-go for me because it mixes patch pockets with peak lapels (another very personal thing that strikes me as incongruent).

Both look nice, but personally those things would bother me. If the first one was wool, I'd get it; if the second one had different pockets, I'd get it.

post #30834 of 37482

I wouldn't get peak lapels on anything save a dinner jacket.

post #30835 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post
 

Need undershirt (singlet) suggestions

 

I have tried Zimmerli, Sunspel, Hanro, Paul Stuart, Brooks Brothers, Roberto Ricetti

Current top contenders are Roberto Ricetti and Sunspel. Size of former is better but hand of latter is better.

Any other (thin) undershirts to look at? No 1930s workwear repro henleys plz

 

Once I found Roberto Ricetti, I never looked back.  I have tried Sunspel and not overly impressed...suprised you think the hand is better.  I have white Ricette undershirts that are 5 years old and still look and feel brand new. 

 

Edit: Also love the deep V on the Ricetti's v-neck.  Perfect if you want to unbutton the top two buttons on your shirt and still not show the undershirt.  

post #30836 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by europrep View Post
 

 

Once I found Roberto Ricetti, I never looked back.  I have tried Sunspel and not overly impressed...suprised you think the hand is better.  I have white Ricette undershirts that are 5 years old and still look and feel brand new. 

 

Edit: Also love the deep V on the Ricetti's v-neck.  Perfect if you want to unbutton the top two buttons on your shirt and still not show the undershirt.  

 

There is something about the way the arc of the chest/armhole is curved that I find a little weird. I think the Ricetti may have a higher chest. I find the cotton lisle on the Ricetti to be too over-finished, producing that slick sheen and feel you see on some of the high end Zimmerli stuff. It's not bad, just different. I'm test-driving the undershirt again today. YMMV since you wear the v-neck t-shirt. I'm talkin about the singlet, where it's hard to get a good fit. The Ricetti has a wider and more exact size range than Sunspel -- my problem was the armholes were flaring out too much on the Sunspel. The Ricetti, by contrast, has a closer body, but this causes the armholes to get pulled upwards for some reason. Again, something about the way the arc is cut. You don't have this problem with a t-shirt, because that excess fabric just connects to the sleeve. I also think the Ricetti may have a shorter hem.

 

I agree that the Sunspel do not age well, though. However, in terms of sheer availability, they are more ubiquitous, which I like.

 

Ah, yes, also totally unimpressed with The White Briefs and their bizarre spaghetti strap interpretation of the concept.

 

Channeling @TweedyProf in this post.

post #30837 of 37482

Should I start my own underwear line?

post #30838 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhereNext View Post

Completely arbitrary and personal preference warning!
I wouldn't get peak lapels on a linen jacket; it strikes me as being a bit internally incongruous (I think of linen as being very casual and peak lapels as being at least a bit "formal"). The second one is a no-go for me because it mixes patch pockets with peak lapels (another very personal thing that strikes me as incongruent).
Both look nice, but personally those things would bother me. If the first one was wool, I'd get it; if the second one had different pockets, I'd get it.

That is a lucid, intelligent, well thought out objection.
post #30839 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post
 

 

There is something about the way the arc of the chest/armhole is curved that I find a little weird. I think the Ricetti may have a higher chest. I find the cotton lisle on the Ricetti to be too over-finished, producing that slick sheen and feel you see on some of the high end Zimmerli stuff. It's not bad, just different. I'm test-driving the undershirt again today. YMMV since you wear the v-neck t-shirt. I'm talkin about the singlet, where it's hard to get a good fit. The Ricetti has a wider and more exact size range than Sunspel -- my problem was the armholes were flaring out too much on the Sunspel. The Ricetti, by contrast, has a closer body, but this causes the armholes to get pulled upwards for some reason. Again, something about the way the arc is cut. You don't have this problem with a t-shirt, because that excess fabric just connects to the sleeve. I also think the Ricetti may have a shorter hem.

 

I agree that the Sunspel do not age well, though. However, in terms of sheer availability, they are more ubiquitous, which I like.

 

Ah, yes, also totally unimpressed with The White Briefs and their bizarre spaghetti strap interpretation of the concept.

 

Channeling @TweedyProf in this post.


Actually, that was me, hacking sprout2's account. The second post following was obviously the real sprout2.

post #30840 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post

Gentlemen, what are your thoughts regarding peak lapels on single-breasted jackets?  There was a time, of course, when that was a no-no, especially in Britain.

The question is prompted by the Suit Supply ‘Washington’ jacket, if that matters.

Cheers,

Ac
Nothing wud hold me back.
The thing that bothers me about the Washington is the ticket pocket.
But I wud only do it as a suit though. It looks weird just as an odd jacket or an oj.
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