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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2052

post #30766 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post
 

There's moleskins, cavalry twill, chino, canvas, and more....

 

It's much easier to differentiate once you've seen/felt them in person. There is an explanation on the cutter and tailor forum about the differences in the weaves, with some macro pictorials, but easier if seen in person.

 

Some of these differ considerably in their ability to take and hold a crease, which is an important factor in when, and when not, to wear them.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #30767 of 37403

Sorry for the interruption, but I'm sure at least a couple of regulars here will be interested in the new Friday Challenge.

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/508163/friday-challenge-18-september-2015-seasonal-coherence#post_8096138

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #30768 of 37403

Just wanted to pop by and say hey, so...


Hey!

post #30769 of 37403

Clothing Question: I had a jacket come in tonight from Frieshskys, spoilered below. The jacket has flap pockets and is about 3/4's of an inch shorter than what I would really have hoped for. Whenever I mention the idea of adding some length to a jacket on the forum some people seem to get excited and mention that lengthening the jacket will throw off the proportions between the bottom of the jacket and the pocket. Nobody get's excited though about the suggestion of tucking the flaps which, on this particular jacket, look to be about 1 1/2 inches. It seems to me that tucking 1 1/2 inch flaps would have a greater impact on the perceived balance of the hem to pocket line dimension than would taking the hem 3/4 of an inch in the other direction.

 

Basically I bought a jacket that turned out to be a size to small and am debating between eating the shipping on a return vs. tailoring a well made and (to me) attractive addition to my closet that I got at an otherwise great price. I'll run it past a tailor this weekend.

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2

post #30770 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuP View Post

What is the diff between chino vs moleskin? From my limited understanding, moleskin is a heavier cotton, while chinos lightweight. Are they same on the spectrum of casual wear i.e. is one more casual?

So I will be looking for shades of tan and brown, maybe even navy, in moleskin and chinos. Will be wearing with mostly blue or various patterned blue or bluish shirts.


Moleskin is sheared after weaving to create a short, dense pile or nap. It feels like felt. In my experience it doesn't hold a crease at all, and is very casual--not unlike denim and more casual than chinos IMO. It wears warm, so definitely not a warm weather fabric. Looks great in shades of brown and dark green. 


Edited by breakaway01 - 9/16/15 at 9:53pm
post #30771 of 37403

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Dlwgosh View Post
 

Clothing Question: I had a jacket come in tonight from Frieshskys, spoilered below. The jacket has flap pockets and is about 3/4's of an inch shorter than what I would really have hoped for. Whenever I mention the idea of adding some length to a jacket on the forum some people seem to get excited and mention that lengthening the jacket will throw off the proportions between the bottom of the jacket and the pocket. Nobody get's excited though about the suggestion of tucking the flaps which, on this particular jacket, look to be about 1 1/2 inches. It seems to me that tucking 1 1/2 inch flaps would have a greater impact on the perceived balance of the hem to pocket line dimension than would taking the hem 3/4 of an inch in the other direction.

 

Basically I bought a jacket that turned out to be a size to small and am debating between eating the shipping on a return vs. tailoring a well made and (to me) attractive addition to my closet that I got at an otherwise great price. I'll run it past a tailor this weekend.

 

3/4 inch might not be a deal breaker for an odd jacket--I tend to prefer my sport coats a bit shorter (~1/2")  than my suit jackets. Might help if you post a picture with you wearing the jacket. 

 

I don't think that tucking in the flaps will make much of a difference to the perceived length of the jacket but to each their own. Is there enough fabric to lengthen the jacket? Also consider that even if there is enough fabric, the front quarters will have to be extended along the existing line. The result is that the quarters will look more open and rounded, which might throw off the jacket's proportions. 

 

My advice is not to hang on to something that you don't really like just because you got a great deal on it. I have done that a few times and have always regretted not returning the item when I had the chance. I do sympathize with your dilemma--it's a great-looking jacket.

post #30772 of 37403

@Bill Dlwgosh, beware the endowment effect. Return it post-haste.

post #30773 of 37403
I agree with those saying to return the jacket. Life is too short to waste on things you know are suboptimal in some important way going in. Also, I can't say I've ever seen length or balance perception affected by tucking in flaps. I think placement of patch pockets has a meaningful impact, less so for flapped. Tucked flaps even less.
post #30774 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Dlwgosh View Post
 

The jacket has flap pockets and is about 3/4's of an inch shorter than what I would really have hoped for. Whenever I mention the idea of adding some length to a jacket on the forum some people seem to get excited and mention that lengthening the jacket will throw off the proportions between the bottom of the jacket and the pocket. 

I would have loved to lengthen several of my older jackets (bought before I found out my proper length), but it was impossible for all of them (cheap or expensive). The reason is that the transition from quarters vertically to bottom horizontally is cut in a way that does not allow you to reasonably continue the quarters (no cloth in the corner).

post #30775 of 37403

Am scrambling a bit to get to work on time but here are 2 pics this morning. The blue jacket I'm comfortable with and the other is the one I'm considering returning, although I'd only recoup about $250 between the shipping and the price being so low to start with.

 

 

post #30776 of 37403

^ Both are too short for my liking, I'm afraid, but the one you are considering returning should definitely be returned.

post #30777 of 37403

Would a solid navy suit with 2 patch pockets be too informal for academic settings/interviews in London? Rather, would it be appropriate?

 

I'm trying to get a summer blazer suit made for my spouse, want to make it in matted mohair with 2 patch and unlined, think it'd be pretty versatile, and I think it'd probably more than appropriate for most academic positions, but want to check if that's appropriate for London, where it's more formal?

 

I think the fabric is fine, it handles like fresco I think (dugdale mocklino).

post #30778 of 37403
Thread Starter 

Academic setting, definitely not. Interviews? Maybe, but probably not. Depends on what your partner is interviewing for. I would, however, go for a more conventional cut than your usual fare, Iso. I don't know what they usually wear; I know you've posted a picture of your SO, but I don't recall what it was. Still, I'd probably err on the conservative side as opposed to anything fashion forward and/or counter-normative (that last bit within reason, at least, as I don't know the details of your SO, but the last thing they need to is to be in an outfit that they don't feel comfortable in for an interview)

post #30779 of 37403

Yeah I have, but it's quite a convervative/standard cut:

 

 

It would be for an interview for a lectureship or something at a university, so like academic interview, I highly doubt it'd be too informal but just want to check. Do you think it'd be acceptable for more informal finance/law firms if it's conservative in other ways-- it's just going to be a notch lapel of average width and 2 buttons maybe 3r2, and not an overly short coat, and no waisted business like with me.

 

We're quite happy with the cut of the suit so I was just going to go with it, what are your thoughts? I think it's not ideal because being dfab they do have larger hips that kinda makes it hard to get that upsidedown V, but I had the tailor extend the shoulder a tiny amount and have it slightly padded to balance out so shoulder width is about same as hips, and I made the coat a bit longer so it doesn't accentuate that area. Thoughts?

 

Extra pictures (Click to show)

 

 

 

Sorry about the pictures, don't show fit very well, but they were not intended for SF originally, and they don't like pictures taken with face so there weren't many frontal photos.

post #30780 of 37403
Iso, if it's an interview suit, just go conservative and don't try to see what one can get away with. Anything else, have at it within reason.
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