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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2049

post #30721 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post

Totally missed that you were asking about a rust grossa! The fina has a good visible texture so it might come close to what you want. Mine is a standard 3-fold lined.

I have the one you're leaning against. It's nice. I want to get the rust cashmere one. The others all look like good options and thebtiming is right to get order a bunch of F/W ties if you want to build that part of your rotation.
David Hober says he needs a square yard of fabric to make a tie so you might not have quite enough even starting with 5 meters. Close though so maybe. Is that first one the P&B Universal slate blue that NMWA is making with Formosa? I'm really looking forward to that suit! I wonder if 16oz might be a bit heavy for a tie.

Very helpful, thanks. The batch for cappelli is all with F/W in mind, so I need to get the order in soon.

The herringbone is the NMWA Formosa, I am having it made bespoke. I have a fitting today. It is much bluer irl, which I like. I am sure not a yard left though, I had no idea a tie took that much fabric! Learn something new every day.
post #30722 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cao Cao View Post

The only time and the last time I ordered a tie from Cappelli, the tie width was 3.75" or so rather than the 3.5" that I askes for. So I got into an argument with Cappelli.

 

 

Very much to my own benefit, as it so happens.

post #30723 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cao Cao View Post
. So I got into an argument with Cappelli.

 

Classic!

 

FWIW, half of the Cappelli ties I own did not come out to spec. With customs and shipping to Italy (and duties on the return), I never bothered to get them fixed. C'est la vie. I enjoy looking at them in my closet, though.

post #30724 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post
 

 

Classic!

 

FWIW, half of the Cappelli ties I own did not come out to spec. With customs and shipping to Italy (and duties on the return), I never bothered to get them fixed. C'est la vie. I enjoy looking at them in my closet, though.

 

That's "lo vero stilo napolitano": the talent to brand sloppy workmanship and poor quality control as "the unique, individual character of traditional handwork" ;)

post #30725 of 37396

As the proud current owner of the "ex-Noodles" Cappelli, I can say there's nothing sloppy about it at all. It's a very fine tie.

post #30726 of 37396

I didn't measure my 2 Hober's but the overall experience, and price, and quality has left me as a customer for life. At least for solids (I have 1 reppe and 1 Gren Fina) I don't feel a need to look anywhere else.

post #30727 of 37396
Double Post
post #30728 of 37396
Is it just me? Do I get so wound up on measurements because I am a numbers guy?!

Glad @Coxsackie is enjoying the tie. I was not happy with his response either. He said, "What do you want me to do?! It is really not much variance."
post #30729 of 37396
Cao Cao, nearly everything handmade is going to have some allowance. I believe Hober explicitly advertises their margin of error on the website. Also keep in mind that when we are talking about 1/4 to 1/8 of an inch, there is possibility for measurement error.
post #30730 of 37396
Yes, there are a lot of factors that could affect how the final product comes out when a product is being handmade. I just was foolish to expect better. Never had problems with HOBERS' but Cappelli was not a pleasant experience.
post #30731 of 37396
Thread Starter 
None of my Hobers vary that much. Which isn't to say there isn't a Hober out there that does. But (and this is second hand knowledge), David will hold onto a tie whose measurements are off and make another rather than send it out.

This is the best response. Handmade and imperfect should cost the same as machinemade and perfect. If you are paying a premium, you should be getting handmade and perfect (or reasonably close to it...not 86%).
post #30732 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cao Cao View Post

Is it just me? Do I get so wound up on measurements because I am a numbers guy?!

Glad @Coxsackie is enjoying the tie. I was not happy with his response either. He said, "What do you want me to do?! It is really not much variance."

No, sir. It is pretty important to me and i have gotten into heated exchanges with both  my alterations tailor, one of my tailors and a vendor or two over pretty sizable differences.

 

I endorse @Claghorn's view that there should be very little margin of error (as close to perfect as possible) when paying for premium goods.

post #30733 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

None of my Hobers vary that much. Which isn't to say there isn't a Hober out there that does. But (and this is second hand knowledge), David will hold onto a tie whose measurements are off and make another rather than send it out.

This is the best response. Handmade and imperfect should cost the same as machinemade and perfect. If you are paying a premium, you should be getting handmade and perfect (or reasonably close to it...not 86%).

 

86%?

post #30734 of 37396
Incidentally, Hober's allowance for error is 1/8 inch in width and 1/4 inch in length per their website. I have never measured any of my Hobers, but I've also never noticed anything that looks off in any of my 50+ ties. I doubt discovering something was 1/4 inch too long would stop me from enjoying a tie that I otherwise like and wear. This doesn't mean quality control with handmade goods is not important (it is), but how often does 1/4 of an inch in length or 1/8 of an inch in width in a tie covered by one's jacket have any real impact on how the tie looks and functions. Maybe a tiny bit re: the width if you have your jacket off, but that's it.
post #30735 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

Incidentally, Hober's allowance for error is 1/8 inch in width and 1/4 inch in length per their website. I have never measured any of my Hobers, but I've also never noticed anything that looks off in any of my 50+ ties. I doubt discovering something was 1/4 inch too long would stop me from enjoying a tie that I otherwise like and wear. This doesn't mean quality control with handmade goods is not important (it is), but how often does 1/4 of an inch in length or 1/8 of an inch in width in a tie covered by one's jacket have any real impact on how the tie looks and functions. Maybe a tiny bit re: the width if you have your jacket off, but that's it.

This is my view. No Hober's yet for me, but I have a few Yellow Hook ties that seem (I have not measured, and have no compulsion to do so) to vary ever so slightly in terms of width and length.

 

All in all, it causes zero consternation to me, and I love them all, and wear them without giving even the most fleeting of thoughts to width variation lol.

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