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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2027

post #30391 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EFV View Post

Cream silk is the most versatile PS you can find IMHO. I know a lot of posters will hate it because Foo was so positive about it, but I'm definitely with him on the cream silk PS though.

Was being a bit tongue in cheek. I actually think cream silk works with tweeds and earth tones in general. Not for worsteds and of course Foo's assertion that white linen pocket squares are suboptimal with white shirts is just wrong.
post #30392 of 37396
Thread Starter 
I have two cream silks (with very unobtrusive patterns), another silk that has cream as a base color. And an oatmeal wool which functions great as winter's cream silk.
post #30393 of 37396

I think cream silks are pretty versatile as well, you just want something softer than a white linen sometimes, especially with tweedy type things, but you want something similar in terms of not being too colorful, what with tweed patterns and all that.

post #30394 of 37396
I just got a cream silk because it gives nice variety instead of using white
post #30395 of 37396

Cream

Get on top

Cream

You will kop

Cream

Don't ever stop

Cream

Sha-boogie

post #30396 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post


On the skirt, the difference between the two jacket's I started with is not so clear to me (@Mr. Six), but maybe you meant that there is the same issue in both? To me, both seem to have an appropriate symmetry from the shoulder to hip (for example, if you were to draw a line from seam down to my hip). The shoulder extension of the Formosa is more desirable as it ends up emphasizing the chest more (thinking of two triangles drawn, top and bottom, with the top a bit bigger). Which is why, in the end, I would prefer the Formosa cut.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

The tale of two jackets, remarkably similar in some ways.





It well might be the photos, posture, etc., but with that said, the skirt of the Jort seems to hug your hips, whereas the Formosa--without flaring--seems to have a bit more room and flow. The Jort is a cleaner cut overall, but the skirt seems like too much cleanliness, tredning toward stiffness. It takes some of the life out off the fabric and to my eye looks constraining rather than clean.

A general response to a few pages of back and forth about Formosa. I think the idea of it being universally loved on SF is overstated. (The groupthinik-ish backlash is cute, though.) Some have liked it from the beginning, some haven't. Greg said at the outset that the suits and jackets represent the house style (presumably with his input), not a response to iGent taste. I don't have any reason to disbelieve him based on what I've seen of their non-NMWA work. The slightly lower buttoning point is part of that style. Some will like it, other won't. Some will see it as top-heavy. I instead view it--in combination with the shoulders and lapels--as lenthening the torso, giving the upper body a strong but approachable look, and generally placing the mid-point visually where it will make the wearer's legs look balanced but not too long or too short. But it also looks different on different wearers, and as usual, one has to factor in how many of the photos are taken.

Of course it's fine to critique the style of Formosa or any other maker's work and the fit on any particular wearer, but readiing over the last few pages, it seemed to me that some of the critiques have implied that there's something "wrong" with the Formosa style and that people who wear and enjoy it are deluding themselves. There would be much less point to these forums if everyone liked the same things, and I appreciate the critiques of my own fits when well founded. I like the Formosa style and the way it looks on me, even if others might not. I think clearly separating critiques based personal preference from those based on objective factors (to the extent that they can be identified and expressed) from those based on history/social context, etc. make for better dialog.

Oh, and cream squares are great with a variety of fits. I like one better than linen with a white shirt, except in the most formal contexts, though I dont know that it is better. wink.gif (Still ambivalent about cream trousers though Tweedy!)
post #30397 of 37396
The SF hype cycle for all n00bs who have been here less than 6 years.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Some of you may be familiar with New York Magazine's hype cycle. Here's the SF version, and you fill in the boxes:





Some of my own impressions:


Pre-Buzz: Structured shoulders

Buzz: Non-silk ties

Rave Reviews: Loud sport coats

Saturation Point: Knit ties

Overhyped: Longwings

Backlash: RL Black Label

Backlash to the Backlash: mafoofan



What's your hype curve?
post #30398 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

You have mastered the tone. You would need to develop some bullheadedness. smile.gif

re your altered pic, it looks like you've also adjusted the waist/point of suppression. Most people can't adjust that, though. If moving the button up takes it above from the actual waist, I think it would tend to make the wearer look pear-shaped.

Now you're just challenging me....
Yeah, my photoshop skills are limited and I just moved the middle area of the jacket upwards, waist included. Assuming not too outrageous anatomy underneath, it's possible to have the waistline of a jacket slightly above the natural waist.

Anyway, it's reassuring to see that you all agree with me that the photoshop version is the better one. There is still hope for you. wink.gif

Seriously, we may well have hit upon a point that comes down to mere aesthetic preference. But those who believe an ultra low buttoning point to be a historical part of the classic, relaxed Neapolitan style, should brush up on their history lessons. Here a few famous examples dating back to the 1930s:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
tumblr_mnuco694fU1rf1jvro1_1280.jpg

tumblr_lnqor46sgp1qfex1b.jpg

tumblr_lnv7g172NZ1qfex1b.jpg

When Neapolitans do opt for a lower buttoning point, the jacket is lengthened to maintain that visual balance that the Formosa examples are missing. Sr. Panico again:

500x1000px-LL-956fad99_62374_580982088652571_1569137442_n.jpeg
SB, how was that for bullheadedness?

Kinda weak, really. You're still trying to be persuasive. smile.gif
post #30399 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Cream
Get on top
Cream
You will kop
Cream
Don't ever stop
Cream
Sha-boogie

Cash rules everything around me: CREAM, get the money.

Dollar, dollar bill y'all.
post #30400 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post


Kinda weak, really. You're still trying to be persuasive. smile.gif

 

No, it's not. The problem with you is that you just don't want to understand.

post #30401 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post


Of course it's fine to critique the style of Formosa or any other maker's work and the fit on any particular wearer, but readiing over the last few pages, it seemed to me that some of the critiques have implied that there's something "wrong" with the Formosa style and that people who wear and enjoy it are deluding themselves. There would be much less point to these forums if everyone liked the same things, and I appreciate the critiques of my own fits when well founded. I like the Formosa style and the way it looks on me, even if others might not. I think clearly separating critiques based personal preference from those based on objective factors (to the extent that they can be identified and expressed) from those based on history/social context, etc. make for better dialog.
 

 

I just want to make it clear because I think I started this entire conversation. I do like the Formosa style and don't think there is anything wrong with it. I was voicing my misunderstanding of "drape" and giving my opinion of how it fit on TweedyProf and others. If it came across that I thought the style was wrong, I apologize. That was not my intention. 


Edited by doodledoc - 9/7/15 at 8:11am
post #30402 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

And on a new topic, am I crazy for thinking about trying a pocket square made from white grenadine silk? It seems like something that could be interesting and unique, but I could also see it just being a disaster. Why reinvent the wheel and all that?

 

fuggedaboudit.  Woven squares'r a big no-no

 

Puffed cream silk is the  most versatile imo

post #30403 of 37396
Six, I'd prefer white rather than cream for trousers matched to your Delfino jacket, and the color would bring out the summery feel of the jacket. But light grey rather than anything darker, if grey. Northern lights feels wintry to me.

Plus, I guarantee you'd look even more smashing in that jacket with those trouser pairings. Promise.

(I know I haven't convinced!)

Edit on Northern lights in summer. The right blue linen or linen mix would work for that jacket.
Edited by TweedyProf - 9/7/15 at 6:52am
post #30404 of 37396

FRIDAY CHALLENGE - POLL IS UP!!!

 

Cast your vote here!

post #30405 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by doodledoc View Post

I just want to make it clear because I think I started this entire conversation. I do like the Formosa style and don't think there is anything wrong with it. I was voice my misunderstanding of "drape" and giving my opinion of how it fit on TweedyProf and others. If it came across that I thought the style was wrong, I apologize. That was not my intention. 
No need to apologize.
I don't understand why people are so afraid to state their unbiased opinion on the Formosa brand. This is not the NMWA thread. We all know that Formosa makes good quality clothing but it is not for everyone. So when it doesnt complement someone's body well, we should just say it. Don't say the angle is weird or the posture is weird. That excuse comes up everytime someone posts pix of ill-fitting Formosa.
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