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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2026

post #30376 of 37396

^Agreed.

Also I just started going through Foo's greatcoat thread and saw that my incoming jacket is quite similar in scale of pattern to his own:

 

Now I feel much better. Mine won't have the amazing plaid cashmere lining though.

post #30377 of 37396
To Formosa owners: where do your trousers sit?

I find that having my trousers sit at the belly button makes everything look well.

Is this too high?!
post #30378 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

The problem with the Eidos/Formosa/Liverano/etc is that the skirt is just too flared for 99% of people. I don't think buttoning point is really the issue.

Post an example I don't see any skirt flare.
post #30379 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post


Post an example I don't see any skirt flare.

 

Should I have said "the quarters are too open?" I'm not sure what the current lingo for this forum is.

Maybe flaring is wrong. The quarters are cut away.

post #30380 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post


Post an example I don't see any skirt flare.

 

Should I have said "the quarters are too open?" I'm not sure what the current lingo for this forum is.

Maybe flaring is wrong. The quarters are cut away.

 

Flaring usually means the skirt is no longer hanging vertically at the bottom.    I’m sure you’ve seen the effect; it can often happen when a jacket is altered to take in the waist without compensating for the effect of that change on the skirt.    It’s independent of whether the quarters are open or closed.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #30381 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

Should I have said "the quarters are too open?" I'm not sure what the current lingo for this forum is.
Maybe flaring is wrong. The quarters are cut away.

Yeah. I get not being a fan of open quarters, but separate issue from skirt flair.
post #30382 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 

 

Flaring usually means the skirt is no longer hanging vertically at the bottom.    I’m sure you’ve seen the effect; it can often happen when a jacket is altered to take in the waist without compensating for the effect of that change on the skirt.    It’s independent of whether the quarters are open or closed.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post


Yeah. I get not being a fan of open quarters, but separate issue from skirt flair.

 

 

Good points, good points. Got to get the taxonomy right. Did we ever agree on a better alternative to "quarters," though?

 

Also, skirt "flair" would be a stylish tutu.

post #30383 of 37396
Another thing worth considering with the whole Formosa discussion is the inevitable differences that come with sizing in RTW. Some of it is definitely a particular cut being more flattering than others, but there are other factors. I'm probably a true 39S, but really liked the fit of the 38 (well EU 48) when I tried it on. For me, it fits like a very softly tailored coat without any added drape. It's probably not what Formosa would make for me if I ordered Formosa bespoke, but I like it. Having done some exploration of coats with drape, I've found that I personally prefer a leaner chest.
post #30384 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

 

[...]   Did we ever agree on a better alternative to "quarters," though?

 

 

 

I missed the part where we agreed that one is needed.  I suspect it's an Americanism.  I believe British tailors refer to the fronts (note plural), or at least they used to.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #30385 of 37396
And on a new topic, am I crazy for thinking about trying a pocket square made from white grenadine silk? It seems like something that could be interesting and unique, but I could also see it just being a disaster. Why reinvent the wheel and all that?
post #30386 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

And on a new topic, am I crazy for thinking about trying a pocket square made from white grenadine silk? It seems like something that could be interesting and unique, but I could also see it just being a disaster. Why reinvent the wheel and all that?

 

Don't do it, bro.

 

That gets to the heart of the problem with the quarters. This is how the industry works. We reach a pleasant harmony of proportion, but then we get bored! Isn't there something we can do by poking and nudging the proportions? What if we opened this up a bit, here? Suddenly we have this formfactor that seems new and fresh. How stylish! This is it, we think. Then (as we are questioning now), that format seems stale and we go back to the drawing board. I realize that the industry would implode if we collectively decided to achieve harmony of proportion and flatline there, but we as consumers should hold steady. I, for one, would enjoy an uninterrupted 10 years of iterating on the same boring shit. I realize that most shoppers do not want this, though. :(

 

Can someone dig up that chart that described a curve of pre-hype, hype, post-hype, backlash to the hype, etc.? It is remarkably apt and I think should be trotted out at least every 3 months and updated. Been pondering making a dedicated thread for that.

post #30387 of 37396
^ Hey. At least it's better than cream silk. I think...
post #30388 of 37396
Tbh, I'd rather take cream silk than grenadine hankie. At least the first resembles something other human beings have seem before.
post #30389 of 37396

'Grenadine silk hank'? Not for me, but that i don't see why not. I recall when only solid Grenadines existed (at least widely accessible - and usually grossa i think). Now, you have Fina, Prometeo, Piccola, cotton/wool/cashmere grenadines, shantung, bourette, dotted and striped grenadines etc Heck, grenadine socks made from cotton lisle exists now.

 

I say rock 'n' roll

post #30390 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

^ Hey. At least it's better than cream silk. I think...

Cream silk is the most versatile PS you can find IMHO. I know a lot of posters will hate it because Foo was so positive about it, but I'm definitely with him on the cream silk PS though.
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