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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2025

post #30361 of 37403

This has become a Lounge type discussion.

 

Thanks for the altered pic, Elio. It brings out a lot that Coxsackie has nicely articulated. 

 

Context is interesting: start from the top, covering the entire picture with your hand, and slowly move downward revealing more and more of the shot. If I do that, I like the lower stance much more on the left. Something about showing more tie, having more shirt revealed is pleasing to my eye. Reveal the entire fit and then issues arise with regard to the leg-line (remembering that this is just one picture, perhaps from an angle that exaggerates proportions along one dimension).

 

I guess there are two things that it would be interesting to see (not that one could do this on photoshop or that you should). (1) Raising the hem on the left keeping button point constant on the body (there are limits to how much this can be done) in the left example and (2) just raising the hem on the right. 

post #30362 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

^ Is @EliodA the new foo.gif with the photoshopping ?

I can adopt a more polemic tone of voice, if you wish. smile.gif

You have mastered the tone. You would need to develop some bullheadedness. smile.gif

re your altered pic, it looks like you've also adjusted the waist/point of suppression. Most people can't adjust that, though. If moving the button up takes it above from the actual waist, I think it would tend to make the wearer look pear-shaped.
post #30363 of 37403
Does anyone endorse adding padding to shoulders on Formosas to compensate those who lack shoulder muscles?
post #30364 of 37403
No.
post #30365 of 37403
The Photoshop work demonstrates well why messing with the proportions of a jacket often does not work. I agree with others who think the original is best. As for making legs appear longer, a slightly shorter jacket does that too.

Of course, I am biased to dislike high buttoning points, which tend to create an unsightly large triangle of shirt cloth between jacket and trouser. I think the cleaner look of a lower buttoning point is worth some other issues.
post #30366 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cao Cao View Post

Does anyone endorse adding padding to shoulders on Formosas to compensate those who lack shoulder muscles?

Someone needs to try this. Please take pics.
post #30367 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cao Cao View Post

Does anyone endorse adding padding to shoulders on Formosas to compensate those who lack shoulder muscles?


This is potentially a perilous bit of tailoring since the padding will shift how the jacket sits on the shoulder, when it was cut to sit in a particular way. For example, the introduction of a collar gap is possible. Better to buy a jacket that fits in the shoulder perfectly to begin with. Not an area to be trifled with in a completed garment..

 

So, I wouldn't recommend it, though perhaps it could be reversed without damage, by a good tailor, if the results were not up to snuff. 


Edited by TweedyProf - 9/6/15 at 9:56am
post #30368 of 37403

I will echo comments that this last discussion is SF at its best: serious adults with good natures, thinking about a matter of common interest with thoughtfulness, open-mindedness and rigor.

post #30369 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

You have mastered the tone. You would need to develop some bullheadedness. smile.gif

re your altered pic, it looks like you've also adjusted the waist/point of suppression. Most people can't adjust that, though. If moving the button up takes it above from the actual waist, I think it would tend to make the wearer look pear-shaped.

Now you're just challenging me....
Yeah, my photoshop skills are limited and I just moved the middle area of the jacket upwards, waist included. Assuming not too outrageous anatomy underneath, it's possible to have the waistline of a jacket slightly above the natural waist.

Anyway, it's reassuring to see that you all agree with me that the photoshop version is the better one. There is still hope for you. wink.gif

Seriously, we may well have hit upon a point that comes down to mere aesthetic preference. But those who believe an ultra low buttoning point to be a historical part of the classic, relaxed Neapolitan style, should brush up on their history lessons. Here a few famous examples dating back to the 1930s:

tumblr_mnuco694fU1rf1jvro1_1280.jpg

tumblr_lnqor46sgp1qfex1b.jpg

tumblr_lnv7g172NZ1qfex1b.jpg

When Neapolitans do opt for a lower buttoning point, the jacket is lengthened to maintain that visual balance that the Formosa examples are missing. Sr. Panico again:

500x1000px-LL-956fad99_62374_580982088652571_1569137442_n.jpeg

SB, how was that for bullheadedness?
post #30370 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post


Now you're just challenging me....
Yeah, my photoshop skills are limited and I just moved the middle area of the jacket upwards, waist included. Assuming not too outrageous anatomy underneath, it's possible to have the waistline of a jacket slightly above the natural waist.

Anyway, it's reassuring to see that you all agree with me that the photoshop version is the better one. There is still hope for you. wink.gif

Seriously, we may well have hit upon a point that comes down to mere aesthetic preference. But those who believe an ultra low buttoning point to be a historical part of the classic, relaxed Neapolitan style, should brush up on their history lessons. Here a few famous examples dating back to the 1930s:

tumblr_mnuco694fU1rf1jvro1_1280.jpg

tumblr_lnqor46sgp1qfex1b.jpg

tumblr_lnv7g172NZ1qfex1b.jpg

When Neapolitans do opt for a lower buttoning point, the jacket is lengthened to maintain that visual balance that the Formosa examples are missing. Sr. Panico again:

500x1000px-LL-956fad99_62374_580982088652571_1569137442_n.jpeg

SB, how was that for bullheadedness?

 

I think most people can wear jackets that have a low and high buttoning stance. However, the length of the jacket makes a huge difference. For myself, a lower button stance means I need to have a longer jacket. High button means a shorter jacket. Of course, if you have extremely long legs or extremely short legs, then yeah, certain button stances will suit you better. But most people don't fall within one of those extremes. 

 

I really like all those jackets you posted, except for that yellow thing. I don't know what that is. 

post #30371 of 37403
Thread Starter 

tumblr_lnqor46sgp1qfex1b.jpg

 

Holy shit, my jacket time travels. Except they did a much better job aligning the patterns at the shoulder/sleeve.

post #30372 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post


A propos of Sciamat, they have really lost it I'm afraid:


 

 

 

^ These two statements combined make no sense. Further, not everyone has the time, budget or desire to go through 11 iterations with a tailor to arrive at the perfect fit. I see your point, but it's not for the majority of posters here, I think.

 

 

Re: Sciamat, did they ever have it?

 

Re: the other thing, when writing it, I was originally envisioning being in a country in Europe, where you can travel to neighboring countries in the span of a few hours. For some reason I translated that to the US context and garbled it as "tri-state area." I wasn't suggesting flying overseas, but going with the most proximal local tailor of a certain quality or, failing that (e.g. no such quality to be found), the nearest tailor in a neighboring region. Since the poster was from California, I was treating Asia as within that orbit, though I guess that is a little far-flung. Again, this concept works way better when applied elsewhere. The problem with the US is it's just so damn big.

Quote:

Originally Posted by losrockets View Post
 

Best discussion I've seen on this thread in some time. I have an e-thrifted Corneliani balmacaan arriving in a few weeks. Should it fit (and it should) I'll probably take some shots and ask for feedback. I needed a versatile piece of outerwear to compliment this incredible but casual Lands End oilcloth jacket from a few seasons ago (http://brokeandbespoke.tumblr.com/post/33977000033/lands-end-sportsman-oilcloth-jacket-its-on-sale) and it was a bit expensive for my budget (there's a navy Club Monaco duffle coat I had my eye on at ~$170), but I really liked @dieworkwear's recent feature on them and wanted to give the look a shot. The seller accepts returns, so I was okay with the risk.


The pattern is pretty big, I'm not sure if it's big-awesome or big-ugly yet:

 


And yes I'm pretty worried about overall length because it looks kinda short here (tiny hanger + raglan sleeves is definitely distorting things though)

 

Balmacaan sounds awesome, and they are almost always made huge. Enjoy it.

 
Quote:
 I really like all those jackets you posted, except for that yellow thing. I don't know what that is. 

 

That, my boy, is ancient thirst.

post #30373 of 37403
Going to dump these here... I will put my own response later. A quick clarification--people typically suggest that Formosas are priced at around $2,100 - $2,200. That is simply not the case. At the beginning of the season, pre-sale, they are around $1800, maybe less. End of season, I have picked one up for under $1,500. I have never paid more than $1,600.









Edited by Newcomer - 9/6/15 at 10:43am
post #30374 of 37403
^ Despos is the best by far

Then middle pic

The top Eidos jacket has quarters that are too rounded IMO. Looks like a morning suit
post #30375 of 37403

The problem with the Eidos/Formosa/Liverano/etc is that the skirt is just too flared for 99% of people. I don't think buttoning point is really the issue.

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