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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2019

post #30271 of 37396

Continuing on the earlier posts (I should say, the decision was not about the two jackets but about two styles of jacket).

 

@poorsod 

 

I completely agree about the learning aspect (though some lessons are costlier than others). There is, I suppose, an evolution of one's conception, so long as one is willing to learn. We talked about rules in the Lounge thread, but the point of rules and "rules" is to provide constraints within which we operate and vary our choices. Within that, I think there is much room for aesthetic enjoyment and play, which must result from trying things out. So I very much endorse what you say. For me, the decision was not about which of the two jackets to choose (the Jort fits my "cleaner" lines center point on jackets...I like them cut that way and my torso mostly can take it), but on how to decide between the two styles, especially given resource constraints. What I'm gravitating to is that for the three winter tweeds I want next (blue/grey herringbone, some rust/brown (more rust than brown), and some green cloth, perhaps donegal), I would prefer the more voluminous feel of the Formosa.


Edited by TweedyProf - 9/4/15 at 6:53am
post #30272 of 37396

@Coxsackie what a surprise u went for something with earthy tones.

 

that barchetta creeps up the armpit a bit doesn't it?  still it's all very nice,  mazel tov

post #30273 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

You are trying too hard

@Newcomer that looks dope, I prefer the fit to your Formosas in many ways

Yeah I agree. I like both for different purposes but the susu works extremely well. I will be purchasing more in the very, very near future.
post #30274 of 37396

On aesthetic. I perhaps differ on summer/spring cuts. For example, on linen shirts, I do not like the "blousier" cut common in RTW linen shirts, though that has a function of letting one air out more in the summer and it is a distinctive, familiar look. For me, the wrinkling and texture of linen is enough to give off the linen vibe. So, I still have my summer shirts cut slim and along the body. For jacket's, I prefer the leaner/cleaner look as an anchor point, and then, my style emanates from there. Such is one's aesthetics.

 

But, on to drape. Coxsackie's post is well timed given our discussion. You can see the difference in the chest in his pic. In fact, here's me in a Formosa, one size up from the above with the smaller size below for comparison. There's a bit more room, visually, in the chest, though it's hard to tell from these pics, but I think you can see a difference (the drape is not as noticeable as in C's pic). I sized down more for the waist (Delfino) and other alterations that would need to be done to clean up the jacket (such as the back; for me, Formosa in my "size" is cut a slightly bigger all around).

 

 

 

On the skirt, the difference between the two jacket's I started with is not so clear to me (@Mr. Six), but maybe you meant that there is the same issue in both? To me, both seem to have an appropriate symmetry from the shoulder to hip (for example, if you were to draw a line from seam down to my hip). The shoulder extension of the Formosa is more desirable as it ends up emphasizing the chest more (thinking of two triangles drawn, top and bottom, with the top a bit bigger). Which is why, in the end, I would prefer the Formosa cut.

 

Anyway, on the skirt, I'm more inclined to say that it's really the drape of the fabrics, with the Delfino having a more relaxed feel (as in your pic). The fabric is an advantage of the Formosa, given its inclination to rumple. I think that's pleasing for summer though it does raise an issue about matching the trouser fabric accordingly (you wouldn't want a clean cut fabric for trousers).

 

For me, the important differences between Jort and Formosa in terms of cut are above the button/waist. They both fit quite trim (indeed, the measured size of the Formosa Delfino is smaller than the Jort, which tells you how the pattern/cut makes a difference). Sorry, I'll put up the pic for ease of reference since three (and more data points).

 

 

Jort (Click to show)
post #30275 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 

What I'm gravitating to is that for the three winter tweeds I want next (blue/grey herringbone, some rust/brown (more rust than brown), and some green cloth, perhaps donegal), I would prefer the more voluminous feel of the Formosa.

 

All of those makeups would look fantastic in the more dimensional, "flowing" look of the Formosa.  I think the lighter fabric in the examples you've tried on favors the clean silhouette of the Jort.  

 

By the way, you know that Greg bought a few rust/brown herringbone tweed from Formosa for the rack at NMWA this season?  

post #30276 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post
 

 

All of those makeups would look fantastic in the more dimensional, "flowing" look of the Formosa.  I think the lighter fabric in the examples you've tried on favors the clean silhouette of the Jort.  

 

By the way, you know that Greg bought a few rust/brown herringbone tweed from Formosa for the rack at NMWA this season?  


Yes, I saw the fabric when I was visiting NMWA. I thought it was more brown with rust highlights whereas I'm thinking more of a rust base (the photos in the thread make it appear more orange, but when I saw it, its seemed to be less so). Which isn't to deny that it has clear rust highlights. The problem is that I already have a brown jacket (as you know) and while the weight isn't nearly as heavy, and texture as coarse, it's something I wear through the winter. 

 

Anyway, I'll wait to see the jacket, since hard to tell from a swatch in indoor light what it will look like in a full tweedy jacket. 

 

The blue HB I'm thinking of is this from the same book:

 


It looks grey here, but I'm pretty sure it's clearly blue IRL. Nice, yes? I'm hoping to foment excitement for this for the next round of GMTO in May (so really, for next year). Anyone interested?

post #30277 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Now that we're on the subject of Formosa, I popped into the NMWA warehouse yesterday to pick up my chosen Vass shoes. (I believe this was a favour from Greg given that I'm an out-of-towner - not sure he would like to be inundated with punters knocking on his warehouse door at all hours.)

Thought I'd pop on a few Formosas just to see how they fitted me, with a view to future online purchases. Of course, there was one suit that I fell utterly in love with - indeed, one which I would never have picked from the online store. It's a tan linen, plain weave Carnet fabric.





Here are some snaps of me with the suit on - sleeves are folded inwards to approximate correct length, and I've turned the trouser hems up. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)










Seems to be a near-perfect fit off the rack. Clean back and chest, no lapel bowing, collar gap or shoulder divots. My only issue is the little folds near the sleeve seams at back - but Greg advised me that this is in fact typical for a Neapolitan-cut suit, due to the very high-cut armscyes and fabric allowances to facilitate easy range of shoulder movement.

Does that sound right? I really like this suit and am pretty keen to kop. (There goes my budget restraint - yet again!)
This looks so good on you. You'd be crazy not to buy it and I see more Formosa suits in your future. The cut works for you
post #30278 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 


Yes, I saw the fabric when I was visiting NMWA. I thought it was more brown with rust highlights whereas I'm thinking more of a rust base (the photos in the thread make it appear more orange, but when I saw it, its seemed to be less so). Which isn't to deny that it has clear rust highlights. The problem is that I already have a brown jacket (as you know) and while the weight isn't nearly as heavy, and texture as coarse, it's something I wear through the winter. 

 

Anyway, I'll wait to see the jacket, since hard to tell from a swatch in indoor light what it will look like in a full tweedy jacket. 

 

The blue HB I'm thinking of is this from the same book:

 


It looks grey here, but I'm pretty sure it's clearly blue IRL. Nice, yes? I'm hoping to foment excitement for this for the next round of GMTO in May (so really, for next year). Anyone interested?

 

That blue herringbone will look great and provide the ultimate in winter versatility. Wish I could do some Formosa but I'm pretty tapped out for big purchases.  Every time a friend gets married (and they seem to with regularity) I think, "there goes a Formosa jacket."  

post #30279 of 37396

^This would be for next winter. The time it would take to drum up support would make it difficult to enjoy this season. So, you can save up. It will be an awesome coat, perfect for academics in cold climates.

 

To get to a point where I could dress with variety and appropriateness everyday at work, I made some short cuts the past 3 years (so, relying on sales to find staples, but then getting what was available, within my scheme). At this point, I recognize that to get the few signature pieces I feel would round out the basics of my wardrobe, I need to go all in on pieces like Formosa. When the kids go to college, perhaps I might try bespoke.

post #30280 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post


This looks so good on you. You'd be crazy not to buy it and I see more Formosa suits in your future. The cut works for you

 

This.

post #30281 of 37396
Thread Starter 

@Pliny

Except for the first, agree 100% about the fabric breakdown. I generally don't consider weight.

 

@Newcomer

I know what you mean; I don't think I'd buy an odd jacket that was 100% wool from SuSu for that reason. Throw in some linen and I think it makes a difference

 

@Coxsackie

Formasa's lapels flatter you, as does the three dimensionality on display in the profile shot. Would you let it out slightly? It seems as though the ) : ( narrowest portion of the jacket is well above your natural waist.

post #30282 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

 

 

 

Can we use this pic the next time someone asks how much cuff they should have?

post #30283 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

^This would be for next winter. The time it would take to drum up support would make it difficult to enjoy this season. So, you can save up. It will be an awesome coat, perfect for academics in cold climates.

To get to a point where I could dress with variety and appropriateness everyday at work, I made some short cuts the past 3 years (so, relying on sales to find staples, but then getting what was available, within my scheme). At this point, I recognize that to get the few signature pieces I feel would round out the basics of my wardrobe, I need to go all in on pieces like Formosa. When the kids go to college, perhaps I might try bespoke.

Think my next suit or jacket is going to be a mid brown/darker tobacco. Was thinking of a linen/wool silk or all linen.
post #30284 of 37396
If I've learned one thing from this thread it's that Greg needs to set up a photo booth in the corner of the NMWA warehouse. We have so many poorly lit pictures of great clothes on visitors there (mine included).

smile.gif
post #30285 of 37396

Very confusing. Some of these suits, to my eye, look as if they are boxy or a size too big. In some of these suits, to me, it appears that the shoulders don't fit or that the chest has an inch of extra room. Since reading this forum, I thought this means that the suit doesn't fit and thus you should size down or find a different brand that fits your body better. Now, it's being discussed as "drape" and that some of you like that more than a "clean" look.

 

Perhaps I just don't get it.

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