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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2018

post #30256 of 37533
I prefer the formosa for the drape which is more suitable to what I desire in odd jackets. The SuSu fits like a smart and sharp suit jacket but the price differential well....up to you.
post #30257 of 37533


post #30258 of 37533
I favor a cleaner, sharper look generally. I like the bit of drape in the Formosa though it isn't a lot. I tried a size up in Formosa and that had a bit more drape but would have required suppressing the waist as well as taking in the sleeves. Actually I went back to NMWA a year later and went down one size in Formosa which was the leaner look I'm used too (above pic). YMMV
post #30259 of 37533

Incidentally, here is Murlsquirl in his Jort



Here, the jacket looks to give a more fuller shape in the chest than in my pic, though this is slightly at an angle. A quick look, and you could mistake it for the Delfino

post #30260 of 37533
Damn that boy sexy!
post #30261 of 37533
Size up then
post #30262 of 37533
Why are the Jorts so damn expensive? $600 bucks for SuitSupply? What the f?
post #30263 of 37533
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Why are the Jorts so damn expensive? $600 bucks for SuitSupply? What the f?

Full canvas. The materials are also pretty decent, as is the case with most higher-priced SS stuff (show me other RTW companies offering such varied and interesting fabrics in SS' price range).  Honestly it looks like a pretty solid value to me. I'll probably get a Jort jacket in the next 12-15 months.

post #30264 of 37533
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

For some reason, the shoulder line is not straight on the one on the left (navy), and I think that must have been one salient factor in your assessing the fit. The color/fabric and the fact that I'm more properly dressed for the jacket might also factor in to the assessment. But I agree about the "leaner" look of the Jort, and there's something about that that appeals to me for a summer jacket. I agree about oscillating between one and the other, when both are similarly satisfactory by any number of criteria. I can understand why people try different tailors, cuts.

Given the items you are looking at are quite close aesthetically, have you considered asking what you want to learn from having one item or another? For me, much of the clothing I have bought in the last 10 years have revolved around trying to gain first hand knowledge. There are lots of opinions being thrown around the forum and there is no way to know "the truth" until you try it yourself.

For example, 10 years ago I was new to Classic Menswear and there was a lot of talk in the media about Super wools and it seemed there was a Super wool arms race. WSJ even wrote an article doing lab tests on suits from different makers. (Ironically, there is even a response from lawyer for the Donald Trump suit maker.)

OTOH some on the forum were pushing back high super number fabric suits. WW Chan had a $900 special for a 2 piece S150 Charles Clayton, so I decided to try it. The suit fit better than any RTW I ever owned and silky smooth to the touch, but it didn't hang or move elegantly.

So another way to approach your decision is to ask yourself is there something you want to learn from owning those you coats? And if so, is that knowledge worth the difference in price.
post #30265 of 37533
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post

Serious question: What objective measures do you guys use to gauge fabric quality?

Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post



#1 is 'other people's opinions'


I've tried to pick 'which fabric is which?' with my eyes closed, from a selection of worsted suitings, but while I can discern some by weight and by coarseness (a coarse open weave feels different to say a wool + cashmere suiting) I can't tell most worsteds apart.


imo it's a bit like blind wine tasting or, really, any lay person's attempt to discern the quality of an aesthetic object is more about what we know about the label than any objective quality of the beverage/instrument/cloth itself.


My personal preference is for -

1. the heaviest cloth-weight you can comfortably wear (better drape)

2. low super numbers >  high

3. English > Italian > everybody else

4. 'dry' > 'wet' cloth

post #30266 of 37533
One thing I'll say about the Jort after looking at the photos more is that I find the skirt and chest a little too close. I think the model would look more like what I think it's trying to achieve with a bit more room in both. Or maybe it's that the soft shoulder would be more coherent with more room in both.
post #30267 of 37533
I think Elioda keyed into the issue (well, at lease the issue for me). To me, the Jort just looks a bit too clean. I have a single SuSu suit, and when I initially tried the jacket on with the pants I was wearing at the time, it looked off. I think SuSu is best in suit form. YMMV, of course. For example, Murl looks great.

I picked a suit out in the Havana cut--which is one of their more casual cuts--and it gives off such a clean feel that I really would not want the jacket in "odd jacket" form.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Personally, with that tan fabric, I prefer the Formosa Delfino.
post #30268 of 37533
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Why are the Jorts so damn expensive? $600 bucks for SuitSupply? What the f?
You are trying too hard

@Newcomer that looks dope, I prefer the fit to your Formosas in many ways
post #30269 of 37533

Now that we're on the subject of Formosa, I popped into the NMWA warehouse yesterday to pick up my chosen Vass shoes. (I believe this was a favour from Greg given that I'm an out-of-towner - not sure he would like to be inundated with punters knocking on his warehouse door at all hours.)


Thought I'd pop on a few Formosas just to see how they fitted me, with a view to future online purchases. Of course, there was one suit that I fell utterly in love with - indeed, one which I would never have picked from the online store. It's a tan linen, plain weave Carnet fabric.




Here are some snaps of me with the suit on - sleeves are folded inwards to approximate correct length, and I've turned the trouser hems up.





Seems to be a near-perfect fit off the rack. Clean back and chest, no lapel bowing, collar gap or shoulder divots. My only issue is the little folds near the sleeve seams at back - but Greg advised me that this is in fact typical for a Neapolitan-cut suit, due to the very high-cut armscyes and fabric allowances to facilitate easy range of shoulder movement.


Does that sound right? I really like this suit and am pretty keen to kop. (There goes my budget restraint - yet again!)

post #30270 of 37533



Yes, get it.


The post is well timed given what we talked about, but the drape in the chest is very apparent here. Perhaps take the waist in a touch. Trouser will fall more cleanly once it is hemmed. But very nice.

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