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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2017

post #30241 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post

 

Serious question: What objective measures do you guys use to gauge fabric quality?

 

Serious answer.

 

Depends on, among other things, how much is known about the fabric in question.

 

If it’s new but the provenance is known then the reputation of the mill is a good place to start, I would think.

 

If it’s not new but the provenance is known then there’s an astonishing amount of advice to be found on the “Unfunded Liabilities” thread.

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/56404/unfunded-liabilities-a-k-a-the-cloth-thread/15285#post_8077530

 

One of my top-ten favorite threads, in fact, though I don’t post there.

 

Whether or not this is 'objective' I'm not sure.

 

I'll be interested to hear others' thoughts on the question.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #30242 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post
 

 

Serious question: What objective measures do you guys use to gauge fabric quality?

 

Whether it withstands a burn test and the fabric melts or not.

Also, using a loupe to gauge the density of packed fibers. #sleevehead

post #30243 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

The tale of two jackets, remarkably similar in some ways.






Given pictures provided, bottom > top.

That said, the Formosa might have more three dimensionality IRL than the Suit Supply.
post #30244 of 37395
Another wardrobe condensing question for you guys.

1 vs 2, 3 vs 4, and 5 vs 6. Neither is also an option.

I've been staring at ties for too long and can't decide on these.
post #30245 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post


Given pictures provided, bottom > top.

That said, the Formosa might have more three dimensionality IRL than the Suit Supply.


@poorsod 

 

This is the reverse of your assessment the last time (no snark intended; the navy blazer Jort posted a week ago). The shoulder line was not very clean for some reason on that blazer, so it was inferior in fit.

 

As I value your opinion, I'm curious why you like the bottom better this time (and we can all agree, any assessment will be hobbled by being reliant on two poor iPhone pics, so standard caveats apply).


Edited by TweedyProf - 9/3/15 at 5:16pm
post #30246 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cao Cao View Post


This reminds me of a comparison that i did between a Formosa and a Suit Supply suit. The majority told me that the Suit Supply fit me better (slightly). I went with the Formosa because of superior fabric quality.

I like Suit Supply but the fabric quality has room to improve, especially those in the 500 to 600 usd price range.


I don't have any complaints with the E Thomas fabric that the Jort is made from. It's light and has an appealing texture to it. I can't compare it to the Delfino the Formosa is made from since the latter is not in my hands (alas), but I have very positive memories of it. @Mr. Six  and @venividivicibj can attest to it's quality. Given limited resources, I think the choice is pretty clear in this case. 

post #30247 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ds13 View Post

Another wardrobe condensing question for you guys.

1 vs 2, 3 vs 4, and 5 vs 6. Neither is also an option.

I've been staring at ties for too long and can't decide on these.

 

If forced to keep any, #2.

post #30248 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post

Serious question: What objective measures do you guys use to gauge fabric quality?
Grab a handfull, hold, release, and see how fast it unwrinkles.

Also, knowing specs on the fabric does help.
post #30249 of 37395
@Ds13

I don't like either of those red ties. Too shiny

The patterns on those yellow ties are too busy. And I dislike yellow ties in general

The brown are the best of the bunch. I prefer the first one slightly because it's a simpler design. The 2nd one seems to have some kind of raised pattern texture that I dislike
post #30250 of 37395
Agreed on the yellows, I've already removed them into the "get rid of" pile.

heres a better picture of 5, 6, and 2.


Thanks for the advice everyone!
post #30251 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

@poorsod
 

This is the reverse of your assessment the last time (no snark intended; the navy blazer Jort posted a week ago). The shoulder line was not very clean for some reason on that blazer, so it was inferior in fit.

As I value your opinion, I'm curious why you like the bottom better this time (and we can all agree, any assessment will be hobbled by being reliant on two poor iPhone pics, so standard caveats apply).

Now that you mention it, if they are the same pictures, I do recall making the opposite reaction before. The difference in opinion must be then the vagaries of aesthetics. Perhaps I am now in a mood for a cleaner look whereas before I preferred the drape. When the two things are pretty close in desirability, I am not surprised that the pendulum swings back and forth. Maybe that's why you are having a hard time making the decision too.
post #30252 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 

@Mr. Six 

 

You can really see the drape in chest in your pic (a bit more subtle in my pic). Also the rumpling from the nature of the fabric. Incidentally, that's the cleanest I think I've seen the Formosa shoulder on you, and I wonder if it's just a factor of your buttoning it and the drape in other cases (my memory might be off)?

 

To put things in perspective, the Formosa is nearly three times the price of the Jort (maybe 2.5x after SF discount, but Formosa needs the sleeves adjsuted). This obviously can be a relevant factor in decision making for lowly academics (of course, the Formosa is handmade by a very respected Italian tailoring house and that's hard to quantify in terms of monetary value). Given that someday, I hope to have a Formosa in exactly the fabric I want made (through a GMTO) I figured better to save for that by beginning with hard choices now. 

 

I think people mean different things when they say "clean shoulder," so it's hard to say. Also, the photos I've posted have shown Formosa jackets in various fabrics and stages of newness with different postures. I think they mostly look pretty clean with some slight variation, including factoring in that the shoulder construction is extremely light. I guess it's not something that I worry about much, but I welcome when someone says something about it because it's helpful to know when I should give a jacket another look.

 

The photos as commentary were largely tongue-in-cheek because I really am wearing the jacket today, so I at least thought it was funny. More seriously, Formosa costs a lot. The Jort looks good. I like the look of the Formosa better, especially for a summer jacket, but the cost differential is a significant factor. Given that you like both--the most important consideration--I'm not sure that there's any reason to get the Formosa.

post #30253 of 37395
Thread Starter 
1, 6. 3 and 4, no good option. I guess 4
post #30254 of 37395

@poorsod 

 

 

 

For some reason, the shoulder line is not straight on the one on the left (navy), and I think that must have been one salient factor in your assessing the fit. The color/fabric and the fact that I'm more properly dressed for the jacket might also factor in to the assessment. But I agree about the "leaner" look of the Jort, and there's something about that that appeals to me for a summer jacket. I agree about oscillating between one and the other, when both are similarly satisfactory by any number of criteria. I can understand why people try different tailors, cuts.

 

@Mr. Six 

 

I mean the difference that might seem apparent here in the right shoulder. Of course, posture, breaking the jacket in, fabric can have much to do with it. My vague memory was of a shoulder that sometimes was more like the right, but it might just be a wrinkle in the fabric (cf. left side though). Anyway, the Deflino post was taken with humor of course (I understood your intentions). It looks very good on you. And, you know, I think it would look even better with white (cream) trousers :smarmy:

 

post #30255 of 37395
@TweedyProf to me the length and buttoning point of the Jort work better for you. Overall, the fit is very clean. Perhaps even too clean for a casual jacket as this is intended to be.
Disclaimer: contrary to the SF norm, I am not a fan of the Formosa silhouette in general. But this example has a better casual vibe than the Susu. It's just too long and low.
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