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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2008

post #30106 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by dazedstate View Post

While true, what about additions such as hand sewn button holes and the like? Do they add anything other than craftsmanship?

There's a functional benefit for some tiny minority of people who actually would roll up their jacket sleeves rather than take off their jacket. Otherwise, I think they are more for show at this point. My general view is that I won't pay extra to have them done but if they are included in the price of a garment (like a MTM suit or sport coat), I like to have them. It's one of those things that used to have more of a function but stayed on as a piece of tradition after its functional purpose no longer applied. Who knows; perhaps one day we'll get non-working buttonholes on the bottom button of suit jackets, though I kind of hope this doesn't happen.
post #30107 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

There's a functional benefit for some tiny minority of people who actually would roll up their jacket sleeves rather than take off their jacket. Otherwise, I think they are more for show at this point. My general view is that I won't pay extra to have them done but if they are included in the price of a garment (like a MTM suit or sport coat), I like to have them. It's one of those things that used to have more of a function but stayed on as a piece of tradition after its functional purpose no longer applied. Who knows; perhaps one day we'll get non-working buttonholes on the bottom button of suit jackets, though I kind of hope this doesn't happen.

I understand the utility of functioning button holes (or the antiquated utility). I was more arguing hand sewn vs machine sewn. That goes for any button holes, not just the sleeves.
post #30108 of 37392
I'm not sure that Elio's Heavy and Fancy Silk Standard For Quality Ties was a universal thing. A hardy silk with a printed motif is neither cheap nor flimsy.

I appreciate the craftsmanship of the rolled edge on ties and handkerchiefs, but the presence or absence of such would not, er, tip the scales of my purchasing decision. Self-tipped, untipped, contrast-tipped are likewise non-decisive factors for me. Design, materials, and the quality of the knot are really the only criteria.
post #30109 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

I'm not sure that Elio's Heavy and Fancy Silk Standard For Quality Ties was a universal thing. A hardy silk with a printed motif is neither cheap nor flimsy.

I appreciate the craftsmanship of the rolled edge on ties and handkerchiefs, but the presence or absence of such would not, er, tip the scales of my purchasing decision. Self-tipped, untipped, contrast-tipped are likewise non-decisive factors for me. Design, materials, and the quality of the knot are really the only criteria.

 

This, of course.

 

The 'Heavy and Fancy Silk Standard For Quality Ties' was very likely not universal, though quite a common point of view back when I started dabbling in menswear, in the 1990s. But possibly that was just in reaction to those awful Hermes prints of the preceding decade...

 

(Yes, I do sound like a grumpy old man today...)

post #30110 of 37392

On a completely unrelated note - any Noo Yawkers here? I'm going to be in NYC next week. Maybe we could do a bit of an SF meet-up for drinks or what-not.

post #30111 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post


(Yes, I do sound like a grumpy old man today...)

That's all right. I sound like a grumpy old man most days.
post #30112 of 37392

Looking for combination advise. The jacket is silk/linen in medium tobacco brown.

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I'm thinking darker colors (northern lights look).

post #30113 of 37392
^ I feel northern lights tends to work best with slightly lighter jackets. I think cream, tan and light grey would all look good. Really dark odd trousers just do not strike me as summery, which the jacket clearly is.
post #30114 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

Looking for combination advise. The jacket is silk/linen in medium tobacco brown.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



I'm thinking darker colors (northern lights look).

Light grey or white i think is the best way to pair that jacket up. If you want to be adventurous you could do a really light blue as well
post #30115 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by justinkapur View Post


Light grey or white i think is the best way to pair that jacket up. If you want to be adventurous you could do a really light blue as well

 

This. I imagine Justin means shades off white here ala cream/ ecru/ stone etc. Sure, pure white ofc could work but the cleaning challenges for  anyone without a butler is truly daunting (speaking as someone with a pair of pure white heavy linen which i only once or twice every summer for fear of incurring stains).

post #30116 of 37392
Tan works. Or green.

Go earthy
post #30117 of 37392
Thread Starter 
Tan trou, green tie

---

Two shirts on the way from Luxire (I mentioned them about a month ago...I don't rush when there is no need to do so). Almost got them with button down collars. I got to the point in the process where I was talking to Luxire about the different types of BD collars. But I looked through a hundred or so archived images of outfits I like and found only three outfits with BD collars, so I opted to get spread for the two. Figured that I clearly would be happier with spread (as I archive images I like without any conscious thought to my preferences)
post #30118 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Tan trou, green tie

---

Two shirts on the way from Luxire (I mentioned them about a month ago...I don't rush when there is no need to do so). Almost got them with button down collars. I got to the point in the process where I was talking to Luxire about the different types of BD collars. But I looked through a hundred or so archived images of outfits I like and found only three outfits with BD collars, so I opted to get spread for the two. Figured that I clearly would be happier with spread (as I archive images I like without any conscious thought to my preferences)


In the Luxire thread a few weeks ago, I posted the measurements for the three most common BD collars they had, and the type of fusing/interlining, if you're interested.

post #30119 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

Looking for combination advise. The jacket is silk/linen in medium tobacco brown.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



I'm thinking darker colors (northern lights look).

Off white trousers + light blue OCBD & mid brown loafers - so simple and yet so elegant.
post #30120 of 37392

This thread began with ties, so this might be relevant ...

 

There's a group buy being put together for some Panta madder ties which look very nice, and the price is attractive:

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/505913/massdrop-x-styleforum-x-panta-madder-tie-gmto-official-collaboration/75#post_8070731

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

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