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post #29986 of 37392

@kulata got the makers right.

 

@venividivicibj the fabric is really quite beautiful, really a perfect light material for a summer jacket.  do think there's a limit to the jacket's versatility in terms of trouser pairings. I would not be a fan of northern lights in a summer fit though I suppose it might work with the right blue trouser. But I would happily wear the jacket with white, cream or light stone/grey trousers. I'm toying with the idea of organizing a GMTO in the navy version of the same fabric, though I would actually prefer something a touch lighter from true navy (see below).

 

@ellsbebc  The collars are the Kamakura collar but done with some slight tweaks through my shirts via Hemrajani (mytailor). 

 

@YRR92 They are beat up jeans. Perhaps too beat up for the BD, but I don't mind. 

 

My own take: I actually like the second and third the best though I would happily wear all three. The length, opening of the quarters, and width of the lapel are fine. The shoulders are different in each, and I agree that the Formosa has the straighter, and hence more desirable shoulder. The sleeve head differs in each with more extension in the Eidos and Formosa.

 

I have several in the Tipo fit, which is the jacket in the first picture though I generally have to have the waist taken in a touch for me to be satisfied with it). I don't mind the higher gorge as it's a balance between having the appearance of a wide lapel that doesn't feel wide given the upward swoop..

 

The SuSu is the Jort which would pretty much work untailored with the exception of a little bit of clean-up under the collar in the back. But the sleeves need no alteration and the length is fine. I was surprised how well the Jort fit and given that it is depending on the fabric a third of the price of the Formosa, is very tempting. The wonderful thing about Formosa, of course, is the selection of fabrics, the provenance, and the construction. 

 

On possible Formosa GMTO fabrics, here are two I'm thinking of, but Greg and Kyle have tons of books to flip through:

 

Here's the Navy Delfino (though something a touch lighter might be nice):

 

This heavy weight blue/grey herringbone might be something to consider for next winter too.

 

post #29987 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post


See below smile.gif.
I do not really care for convex shoulders. The Eidos shoulders almost look a tad "pa-fucked," if you allow me to borrow a term from the NSM thread. Don't get me wrong--off the peg, all three look very nice. But I like the shoulder line on the Formosa the best. I just think they sit on him very nicely, and they don't have that wavy convex shape.

 

Here's an Eidos where the shoulder line is straighter.

 

post #29988 of 37392
Thread Starter 

TP: 5963

post #29989 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

 

@YRR92 They are beat up jeans. Perhaps too beat up for the BD, but I don't mind. 

No, I like beat-up jeans, but that rise seems really low – and in that light, I was worried they were (gasp) distressed.

post #29990 of 37392

YRR92 Whiskers, fades and bruises are properly earned.

 

Claghorn: 4209 seems to me quite nice as well. Classic strong herringbone, but not just grey.

post #29991 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 

Here's the Navy Delfino (though something a touch lighter might be nice):

 

Looks nice, if it has the same feel/texture as the  light brown would be really nice

post #29992 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Looks nice, if it has the same feel/texture as the  light brown would be really nice


I agree, but it would be too similar to my inky blue formosa.

That winter herringbone though
post #29993 of 37392

Trying to get up to speed -- what is a northern lights outfit?

post #29994 of 37392

^ Jacket is lighter color than the pants.

 

While we have swatches out, I wonder if anyone would have an idea of where I could find a particular fabric, in this case from Holland and Sherry. I took this pic from one of their books at a Harry Rosen who put them out for the sake of their MTM Samuelsohns. As much as I do really like Samuelsohn jackets, I'd rather find the fabric myself and take it to a local tailor where I think I'd end up spending about half as much as if I were going through Harry Rosen. I've tried on jackets in this fabric a couple of times and really like the blue houndstooth, I just don't see spending in the $1,700-$2,000 range.

 

Anyway, Holland and Sherry #821019 from (I believe) a book labeled 'Peacock'.

 


Edited by Bill Dlwgosh - 8/22/15 at 10:47am
post #29995 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by justinkapur View Post


I agree, but it would be too similar to my inky blue formosa.

That winter herringbone though

luckily (or sadly) I don't have that.

 

I actually need a blue blazer....

post #29996 of 37392
@TweedyProf overall gestalt: Formosa (requires sleeve adjustment) > Suit Supply > Eidos.
post #29997 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

@TweedyProf overall gestalt: Formosa (requires sleeve adjustment) > Suit Supply > Eidos.


@poorsod 

 

I agree, and that seems to be the general consensus too.

post #29998 of 37392
Forest (darker) green coats (ignore type of fabric and focus on color). Fall and Spring?
post #29999 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Forest (darker) green coats (ignore type of fabric and focus on color). Fall and Spring?

I like the idea of owning something like the jacket below but wonder if it's difficult to find dark green fabric/jackets that aren't more country than city?

 

post #30000 of 37392

Forest green for me is ideally fall/winter.  Can be worn in spring, too, but I gravitate toward slightly lighter greens in the springtime.  

 

It's a color that looks good in a whole range of fabrics and textures, from heavy tweed to lightweight hopsack.  

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