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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1985

post #29761 of 37396
I like charcoal, but then I mostly tend to wear suits to more formal evening events when I'm in a white shirt. Silver or navy tie with white linen square and I am good to go. I do agree that a nice medium to dark grey can be more useful.
post #29762 of 37396
Finally was near a SuSu for the first time in 6 years. Gave them another try. Of course La Spalla was best fitting...they offer some very nice fabrics in that collection.

I should be stopping by PJohnson later today to pick up navy seersucker MTM suit. I'll post pics for all the New Yorkers that may want to give them a try.
post #29763 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by europrep View Post

Finally was near a SuSu for the first time in 6 years. Gave them another try. Of course La Spalla was best fitting...they offer some very nice fabrics in that collection.

I should be stopping by PJohnson later today to pick up navy seersucker MTM suit. I'll post pics for all the New Yorkers that may want to give them a try.

 

Interested to see pictures as they travel to Chicago as well.

post #29764 of 37396

Bringing this from WAYWT 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pliny View Post
 

 

Noice.  Collar is a bit too cutaway for a sports jacket fit imo, but fit is elegant all the same.

 

 Is this really a thing? I like wearing spread/cutaways more casually because sometimes they can stand up/look better without a jacket (doesn't "fly-away" like some of the less-spread collars), and are more formal that BDs (which i only wear for super casual shirts)

post #29765 of 37396

I wear a full spread without tie or jacket all the time.  

 

Agreed, they flare away from your neck less, and are a nice alternative to BD.   And they work well for smaller faces.

post #29766 of 37396
I only wear polos/BDs when I'm not wearing a jacket. Spread collars are strictly for jackets only, and mostly suits.

Spread collar without a jacket is a very bridge and tunnel crowd look, especially if you wear it untucked with jeans.
post #29767 of 37396

I suppose it is a case of  'all cutaways are spreads but not all spreads are cutaways'.

 

Personally, the cutaway (RL Keaton-esque) is not for me. I prefer a semi-spread!

post #29768 of 37396

I like navy in subtle patterns, but I do have a special preference for glen plaid so maybe that's why. I feel like for solid navy it's best to be lighter or in a weave with texture as well (or both). I don't have any charcoal, but I assume I'd feel similar, but maybe not. I might just not like solid charcoal that much.

post #29769 of 37396
Cutaway can look ok without a jacket when it's a very soft Italian collar and the shirt is a very textured fabric.
post #29770 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post
 

 

If you can budget $350, I'd take a really close look at Carmina, either direct from their webstore or through the AV skoaktiebolaget (or spaghettibolognese, as I refer to them in my head).  I've just placed my first order and can't comment on the finished product firsthand, but so far, they're great to deal with and the reports here on SF are quite positive.

 

Can you tell us how CBD your context is? 

I'm a diplomat so pretty CBD when meeting with other government officials but not as much when staying in the embassy.   Are you asking because maybe I should start with black?   I thought about that too but I have two pairs that are passable for now but will eventually get replaced.   Or maybe not cap toe? 

post #29771 of 37396

Talk to @Manton. He can help with diplomat/gov function dress codes.

post #29772 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdancel View Post

I'm a diplomat so pretty CBD when meeting with other government officials but not as much when staying in the embassy.   Are you asking because maybe I should start with black?   I thought about that too but I have two pairs that are passable for now but will eventually get replaced.   Or maybe not cap toe? 

Start with black cap toe oxfords.
post #29773 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post


Start with black cap toe oxfords.


This.

post #29774 of 37396
First MTM project with PJohnson in NYC. This is there Roma line (middle line). Went with a navy seersucker, half lined, and patch pockets so I can wear as separate. Fabric is a bit stiff which you can see in the pictures. It will soften up with time. We intentionally left some room in the back given it is for warmer weather.







post #29775 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdancel View Post

Would like some input on a first GNAT/SF approved shoe for CBD. I'm thinking brown cap toe but from where in the 350 range? Kent Wang? Meermin? I'm thinking not AE as I just sold a couple of pairs to fund this purchase

 

Cap toe or punched cap toe is safe for CBD, and if you're already covered for black, then brown or even dark tan is nice.  What colour suits do you tend to wear?  Try burgundy/oxblood, perhaps?  

 

For $350 US your options are many and varied.  I like Carmina, just in range, or perhaps try one of the English makers in that price bracket, like Loake, Barker or Cheaney?  At sale prices you'll get Church's, Alfred Sargent and possibly Crockett & Jones falling into that price too.  Take a look at Herring and Pediwear: either will courier to you in Rabat in a couple of days, and both offer good customer service.  Herring have a summer sale on, and I like this for you at Pediwear!

 

Also, what's your AE size?  

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