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post #29446 of 37396

Looking for some thoughts on fit and color coordination on this fit. Thank you in advance. 

 

 

post #29447 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

I like them. I ended up purchasing the drakes version of that tie from Greg - its a triple stripe navy grenadine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post

Thank you, gentlemen. I appreciate your input. I will likely proceed by purchasing both during the course of the day.
post #29448 of 37396

Del.

post #29449 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 

 

 

 

 

In case anyone else (now or in the future) is interested in having Luxire try to copy the Milano II collar, here is my first attempt, based on the measurements provided on the PC website, to which I linked when placing my order with Luxire so they also (in principle) had access to a photo.  My neck size is 15.  I show them here laid flat, with the Proper Cloth shirt on the top of the photo and the Luxire on the bottom.  Measurements are in inches.  I suspect that 1/16 is within the margin of measurement error.

 

 

 

 

 

 

                PC           Luxire

A             11 ¼       11 ½

B             3 ¼         3 3/16  

C             3 ½         3 1/16

D             2.0          2.0

E              1 ¼         1 ¼

 

As you can see, the main difference here is in measure ‘C’, and as a consequence the PC collar has a more ‘concave’ shape as photographed.

 

Just FYI.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

Based on the measurement you mentioned, it will miss the collar spread. Also, without proper guidelines on the pattern drafting on the upper collar, the collar won't be able to stand as the original.

 

I suggest you to use tracing wheel to replicate the pattern and ask you tailor to add seam allowance. 

post #29450 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gatsbyu View Post
 

Based on the measurement you mentioned, it will miss the collar spread. Also, without proper guidelines on the pattern drafting on the upper collar, the collar won't be able to stand as the original.

 

I suggest you to use tracing wheel to replicate the pattern and ask you tailor to add seam allowance. 

Care to explain this further, please? I'm trying to understand why some of the collars Luxire makes stands while some look like they're collapsing at the front. I can't stand the latter look, but don't know what to tell Luxire in order to ensure the "standing collar". At first thought it had to do with the height of the front collar band, but later came to understand that this is not the case.

 

Example of a "standing collar"

post #29451 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by dazedstate View Post
 

Looking for some thoughts on fit and color coordination on this fit. Thank you in advance. 

 

 

The jacket is too light to cohere with the other elements of the fit. It looks looks like it is trying to shrink into the background whilst the shirt/tie bust out into the fore. This fit is begging for a navy jacket. You have a lot of collar gap going on in the jacket as well and it generally looks a size too large for you. The trousers looks floppy, consider having them slimmed down with a slight taper. They are also too long, even for a full break. Consider what kind of break you want on your trousers and have them adjusted accordingly. SF would generally recommend a slight to no break look and I would agree, although there is nothing wrong with a full break. The tie and pocket square colors are not bad and in another context might look quite good. Shoes that light are hard to wear and I can see that you gave it some thought by selecting a jacket light enough to accommodate them. The problem is the jacket itself doesn't work therefore the shoes don't either. Consider darker on both counts.

 

Also, cheers from a San Diego native. Go Padres!

post #29452 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

Care to explain this further, please? I'm trying to understand why some of the collars Luxire makes stands while some look like they're collapsing at the front. I can't stand the latter look, but don't know what to tell Luxire in order to ensure the "standing collar". At first thought it had to do with the height of the front collar band, but later came to understand that this is not the case.

Example of a "standing collar"

Need a stiff collar band. Collar itself can be soft, but the band is what keeps the collar 'standing'
post #29453 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

The jacket is too light to cohere with the other elements of the fit. It looks looks like it is trying to shrink into the background whilst the shirt/tie bust out into the fore. This fit is begging for a navy jacket. You have a lot of collar gap going on in the jacket as well and it generally looks a size too large for you. The trousers looks floppy, consider having them slimmed down with a slight taper. They are also too long, even for a full break. Consider what kind of break you want on your trousers and have them adjusted accordingly. SF would generally recommend a slight to no break look and I would agree, although there is nothing wrong with a full break. The tie and pocket square colors are not bad and in another context might look quite good. Shoes that light are hard to wear and I can see that you gave it some thought by selecting a jacket light enough to accommodate them. The problem is the jacket itself doesn't work therefore the shoes don't either. Consider darker on both counts.

Also, cheers from a San Diego native. Go Padres!
Thank you for your thoughts. Now that you mention it I can see what you're saying about the shirt and tie perhaps being too saturated. I also see the fit issues you pointed out. Regarding colors, do you think just a paler blue shirt and lighter tie? Also in your experience, can the fit issues presented be remedied by a competent alterations tailor?

Edit: and indeed, go Padres
post #29454 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post


Need a stiff collar band. Collar itself can be soft, but the band is what keeps the collar 'standing'

Are you sure? I'm pretty certain I asked for a stiff(er) collar band the last time I placed an order. Also, I have shirts with unfused collars and collar bands (but on the other hand, the band is thicker than normal) that features a standing collar.

post #29455 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by dazedstate View Post


Thank you for your thoughts. Now that you mention it I can see what you're saying about the shirt and tie perhaps being too saturated. I also see the fit issues you pointed out. Regarding colors, do you think just a paler blue shirt and lighter tie? Also in your experience, can the fit issues presented be remedied by a competent alterations tailor?

Edit: and indeed, go Padres


You might approach a tailor about the fit issues. When it comes to collar gap my instinct is to say no, it can't be helped, but there are some wizards out there who can fix things I would never have thought of. As far as colors I will say this, I'm not a fan of the jacket in general. If you must wear it then going lighter int he shirt and tie might help. If it were me I'd have it slimmed down, wear it with some rumpled white trousers and a light blue linen shirt and be done with it. Add a white linen square if need be. Other than that, go with a different jacket. 

post #29456 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post
 

Are you sure? I'm pretty certain I asked for a stiff(er) collar band the last time I placed an order. Also, I have shirts with unfused collars and collar bands (but on the other hand, the band is thicker than normal) that features a standing collar.

hmm. I don't know then,  possibly email luxire.

post #29457 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post


You might approach a tailor about the fit issues. When it comes to collar gap my instinct is to say no, it can't be helped, but there are some wizards out there who can fix things I would never have thought of. As far as colors I will say this, I'm not a fan of the jacket in general. If you must wear it then going lighter int he shirt and tie might help. If it were me I'd have it slimmed down, wear it with some rumpled white trousers and a light blue linen shirt and be done with it. Add a white linen square if need be. Other than that, go with a different jacket. 
Thanks again. I will keep your suggestions in mind.
post #29458 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post
 
 

[...] I'm trying to understand why some of the collars Luxire makes stands while some look like they're collapsing at the front. I can't stand the latter look, but don't know what to tell Luxire in order to ensure the "standing collar". At first thought it had to do with the height of the front collar band, but later came to understand that this is not the case.

 

Example of a "standing collar"

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post


Need a stiff collar band. Collar itself can be soft, but the band is what keeps the collar 'standing'

Are you sure? I'm pretty certain I asked for a stiff(er) collar band the last time I placed an order. Also, I have shirts with unfused collars and collar bands (but on the other hand, the band is thicker than normal) that features a standing collar.

 

More than one variable contributes to the effect in my experience.

 

If you look at this particular photo you’ll see that at least three things appear to be supporting the curvature of the collar, apart from the collar geometry itself:

 

(1)  the jacket collar and lapel are holding it in that position;

(2)  the tie blade is pushed up to the top of the collar band;

(3)  the knot isn't small.

 

No doubt the geometry of the collar is a necessary condition, but I’m not sure it’s sufficient.  Keep in mind that even a so-called ‘stiff’ collar band is still a somewhat flexible thing.  Having a high enough band could be more important than its stiffness.

 

I suppose one could use a curved collar stay to ensure the effect, but I can't say for sure as I don't use collar stays.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #29459 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by dazedstate View Post

Thank you for your thoughts. Now that you mention it I can see what you're saying about the shirt and tie perhaps being too saturated. I also see the fit issues you pointed out. Regarding colors, do you think just a paler blue shirt and lighter tie? Also in your experience, can the fit issues presented be remedied by a competent alterations tailor?

Edit: and indeed, go Padres Giants!

I think a paler shirt would suffice here. There's nothing wrong with the navy tie with the jacket and pants you've chosen.
post #29460 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by dazedstate View Post

Looking for some thoughts on fit and color coordination on this fit. Thank you in advance. 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




Color scheme works for me but not so sure if the jacket fits. I see a collar gap and overlapping fronts in the first picture, but it's only one frame of reference. Textures look spot and the more than full break of the pants is not my preference.
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