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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 195

post #2911 of 37437
Thread Starter 

Yes he does.

 

JRD, did you ask Hober for the thinnest lining available? I don't know if you had already bowed out of the thread, but we figured out that Hober uses the same mill as Cappelli (Hober uses both, the grossa and fina from one and the other two from the other)

 

Also, do people buy Isaia lapel pins? Like....to pretend they're wearing Isaia?

 

I hate people.

post #2912 of 37437
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

JRD, did you ask Hober for the thinnest lining available? I don't know if you had already bowed out of the thread, but we figured out that Hober uses the same mill as Cappelli (Hober uses both, the grossa and fina from one and the other two from the other)

I rejoined. biggrin.gif

I did indeed ask for the thinnest lining.

I'm not sure Hober and Cappelli use Fosseti. (U saw the comment from another member about the British mill that I posted)
post #2913 of 37437
Thread Starter 

If you keep reading that thread, you'll see he was mistaken :satisfied:

But provided the weaves are the same, I guess Cappelli uses a thinner lining. Good to know.

 

On another note, who buys Isaia lapel pins?

post #2914 of 37437
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

On another note, who buys Isaia lapel pins?

They're a big fucking deal on fleabay.

I like the look of them too. Cool color. Less frilly than a felt flower lapel decoration. And certainly cooler than a flagpin

tumblr_li4uw3ZhkF1qcdg4no1_500.jpg
o-ROMNEY-FLAG-PIN-570.jpg?5
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post #2915 of 37437
Are those ties keepers or for sale, JRD? I like the one to the far right.
post #2916 of 37437
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post
 

 

But provided the weaves are the same, I guess Cappelli uses a thinner lining. Good to know.

 

In the Hober thread, there's a very informative post about linings from David: http://www.styleforum.net/t/245529/a-sam-and-david-hober-tie-appreciation-thread/4470#post_6948285

 

There are some added thoughts on the last page. What I take from his detailed discussion is that the key is to match lining to fabric and not simply to have a light lining (as I had assumed). While I have not yet ordered a Hober tie, only a matter of time, what I take from David is that the aim is to convey what you want to the bespoke tie maker, and who then uses his/her expertise to achieve the effect (which will be one step in a process towards an ideal). I had questioned him about achieving the knot in this pic in a grenadine garza grossa  (knot is a bit more tapered and elongated than my other ties...)

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

David actually suggested a thicker lining to do so (which was counterintuitive to me). Anyway, will let you know how the first grenadine comes out, but do check out the Hober thread for David's thoughts.

post #2917 of 37437

And this from member @pazzion is a really nice shot of several Hober grenadines, untipped. It's what convinced me that really, I have to try Hober first for grenadines.

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/245529/a-sam-and-david-hober-tie-appreciation-thread/4455#post_6948129

post #2918 of 37437
Thread Starter 

JRD,

 

in the link, Hober also notes that there are occasionally specialty weaves of wool interlining that come out of England occasionally. Perhaps that's what the other poster was referring to when talking about Cappelli sourcing their grenadine fabric from England?

post #2919 of 37437

Hey guys, my navy jacket from Yoox came in this evening. I was hoping to get some guidance on what you guys think of the fit and styling etc. Is it a keeper or should I send it back? Also, if it is a keeper, what should I change the buttons to? I was thinking brown horn? Could anyone link me to a set on eBay they think are good? Thanks!

 

I apologize for the poor picture quality in the artificial lighting with a wife who does NOT want to be taking photographs of me right now. :P

 

Maker: Benci

Fabric: Flannel

 

 

Gratuitous Poor Quality Photos (Click to show)

 

post #2920 of 37437
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

JRD,

in the link, Hober also notes that there are occasionally specialty weaves of wool interlining that come out of England occasionally. Perhaps that's what the other poster was referring to when talking about Cappelli sourcing their grenadine fabric from England?

The Cappelli grenadine material is softer. This is a fact. biggrin.gif

The thinnest lined grenadine from Cap is also thinner than the thinnest lined grenadine from Hober. This is another fact. biggrin.gif

It's all based on personal preference. It doesn't mean that Cappelli is innately superior to Hober. Don't know what else I can say.
post #2921 of 37437
Send the jacket back, for sure.

-Too short
-Too tight in the torso

Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post

Hey guys, my navy jacket from Yoox came in this evening. I was hoping to get some guidance on what you guys think of the fit and styling etc. Is it a keeper or should I send it back? Also, if it is a keeper, what should I change the buttons to? I was thinking brown horn? Could anyone link me to a set on eBay they think are good? Thanks!

I apologize for the poor picture quality in the artificial lighting with a wife who does NOT want to be taking photographs of me right now. :P
post #2922 of 37437
Thread Starter 

L2B, due to your posterior, err on the side of long for your jacket lengths. It might be possible for a tailor to let it out at the back to decrease the vent gaping.

post #2923 of 37437
Also @luv2breformed, it could just be my eye, but the buttoning point seems far too high.
post #2924 of 37437

L2BR

 

Honestly, it's too short (forgetting everything else). Wears like the 29 inch in you pics a few posts ago. The vent is gaping a bit, button stance too high for your current tastes (which are appropriate). Shoulders aren't as clean as they could be (see Rudals 38 Isaia versus his 40 Zegna). Not a fan of the elbow patches but you'll be seeing those for a while (really popular last few years in Europe).

 

I say return. This is the thing about YOOX, a crapshoot. My two cents.

post #2925 of 37437
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post


The Cappelli grenadine material is softer. This is a fact. biggrin.gif

The thinnest lined grenadine from Cap is also thinner than the thinnest lined grenadine from Hober. This is another fact. biggrin.gif

It's all based on personal preference. It doesn't mean that Cappelli is innately superior to Hober. Don't know what else I can say.


Appreciated your thoughts about this JRD.

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