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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1857

post #27841 of 37497
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post #27842 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by semperexcelsius View Post

Just because he doesn't have good taste in shirt/tie combos doesn't mean he can't make a killer shirt.

Ehmm, well, ok... You've obviously made your mind up, I'll be looking forward to see the results.
Do you already know what kind of fabric you want? Collar style or other stylistic details?
post #27843 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post


Ehmm, well, ok... You've obviously made your mind up, I'll be looking forward to see the results.
Do you already know what kind of fabric you want? Collar style or other stylistic details?

These 6 shirts will all be "work" shirts, so pretty conservatively styled (whites and light blues, maybe a conservative stripe). Alex recommended that I keep the 170s to less than a third of my order (so I might splurge on one or two of those), and get 140s or 120s for the rest.

 

Spread collar, but not too wide (I wear FIH pretty much exclusively), decently tall. I can't decide if I want a bit of an "arch" or if I want it to be relatively flat. Obviously must fit under suit lapels.

 

I'm pretty intrigued by the idea of some three-button cuffs a la T&A, but might end up doing two. Any thing else I need to be considering?

post #27844 of 37497
^

Some other basics ... placket or no placket ... pocket or no pocket ... mitred cuff or rounded ...
post #27845 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

^

Some other basics ... placket or no placket ... pocket or no pocket ... mitred cuff or rounded ...

Hmmm. Haven't really considered placket, although isn't having one the standard?

 

No pocket, obviously. ;)

 

If 3-button, neither, just a straight edge. If 2-button, probably still straight edge but potentially mitred.

post #27846 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by semperexcelsius View Post

These 6 shirts will all be "work" shirts, so pretty conservatively styled (whites and light blues, maybe a conservative stripe). Alex recommended that I keep the 170s to less than a third of my order (so I might splurge on one or two of those), and get 140s or 120s for the rest.

Spread collar, but not too wide (I wear FIH pretty much exclusively), decently tall. I can't decide if I want a bit of an "arch" or if I want it to be relatively flat. Obviously must fit under suit lapels.

I'm pretty intrigued by the idea of some three-button cuffs a la T&A, but might end up doing two. Any thing else I need to be considering?

Fabric weave: broadcloth, twill, oxford, voile, etc. Some types are more formal than others. How formal is the business you're in?

Fabric material: cotton, linen, blend? NYC can be quite hot as well as cold, right?

I'd stay away from very light fabrics. Their usefulness is very limited, IMO. Even in very hot weather (I always wear an undershirt here)


Obviously choice of fabric should relate to other choices.E.g., an informal oxford cloth might look weird with a stiff cutaway collar and french cuffs .

Fwiw, and this is highly personal, but the fit of a shirt is not that critical. Certainly not compared to a suit. What is essential is fit, size and proportion of the collar. And above all, style and comfort.

For the rest, I think TM79 has already covered it .
post #27847 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post


Fabric weave: broadcloth, twill, oxford, voile, etc. Some types are more formal than others. How formal is the business you're in?

Fabric material: cotton, linen, blend? NYC can be quite hot as well as cold, right?

I'd stay away from very light fabrics. Their usefulness is very limited, IMO. Even in very hot weather (I always wear an undershirt here)


Obviously choice of fabric should relate to other choices.E.g., an informal oxford cloth might look weird with a stiff cutaway collar and french cuffs .

Fwiw, and this is highly personal, but the fit of a shirt is not that critical. Certainly not compared to a suit. What is essential is fit, size and proportion of the collar. And above all, style and comfort.

For the rest, I think TM79 has already covered it .

Oh, totally forgot to mention these things. Maybe one broadcloth as it's good to have a white one. The others will probably be twill or royal oxford (I need more formal than a standard or pinpoint oxford).

 

Probably just cotton—no linen or blend on the first six shirts.

post #27848 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuP View Post

Assuming the same color, what is more versatile: a suede or a calf loafer?


Awkwardly enough, I'd say this depends on the color. A dark brown suede is going to be more useful than a dark brown calf, but in medium brown, I'd call it a wash, and in a fairly light shade, I personally could find more use for calf than suede.

post #27849 of 37497
Urban Composition's collars are fantastic. Source of his shirts?
post #27850 of 37497
Where are these urban composition collars pics?
post #27851 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillingToLearn View Post

Urban Composition's collars are fantastic. Source of his shirts?


I know some of them are from NSM...he usually tags brands on his Instagram.

post #27852 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuP View Post

Where are these urban composition collars pics?

 

http://urbancomposition.tumblr.com/

post #27853 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillingToLearn View Post

Urban Composition's collars are fantastic. Source of his shirts?
Jantzen tailor. Used to be popular here back in the day. I am still a loyal customer
post #27854 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by semperexcelsius View Post
 

Just because he doesn't have good taste in shirt/tie combos doesn't mean he can't make a killer shirt. Like I said, we'll have to see. If you like, I can mention in my post about the topic if you'd like to further that debate when the time comes.

 

 

Ok thanks; I'll put a post up.

If you are truly (I hate to sound like a prick, but so much of this reads as trolling) just dipping your toes in the menswear waters, why start in the deepest/priciest waters?

 

I can only speak for myself, but many of the things I found "stylish," from ties to shirts to suits starting off, were anything but. Thankfully, they were very economical, and I had no hesitation in Goodwill'ing them.

 

Further, I don't understand the desire to revert back to more bank account friendly choices AFTER popping your cherry with the absolute best, at least in regards to price. If you are truly fixated on buying from said makers (which you seem to be), why not go in ascending order, so you can experience and appreciated their wares after knowing what works for you, and what you like.

 

For me, it strains credulity that you would want to pay, in many cases, double the price for a product that, at best, is minutely superior to near mirror image products, especially when, in this case, the "cheap" option is still $500 shirts!!! Of course, cost is relative, so do with it what you will, but there just seems to be no compelling reason (desire is clearly not always tied to logic) to do so.

post #27855 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post
 

If you are truly (I hate to sound like a prick, but so much of this reads as trolling) just dipping your toes in the menswear waters, why start in the deepest/priciest waters?

 

I can only speak for myself, but many of the things I found "stylish," from ties to shirts to suits starting off, were anything but. Thankfully, they were very economical, and I had no hesitation in Goodwill'ing them.

 

Further, I don't understand the desire to revert back to more bank account friendly choices AFTER popping your cherry with the absolute best, at least in regards to price. If you are truly fixated on buying from said makers (which you seem to be), why not go in ascending order, so you can experience and appreciated their wares after knowing what works for you, and what you like.

 

For me, it strains credulity that you would want to pay, in many cases, double the price for a product that, at best, is minutely superior to near mirror image products, especially when, in this case, the "cheap" option is still $500 shirts!!! Of course, cost is relative, so do with it what you will, but there just seems to be no compelling reason (desire is clearly not always tied to logic) to do so.

Yeah, I probably sound like I'm trolling (even I can see that). You guys will just have to "trust" me until I meet with him, post pics, etc.

 

I don't really want to go back to the "more bank account friendly choices"—IF Alex lives up to his reputation. If not, then I'll have no problem trying someone else. I just want the "best," even though that's subjective.

 

But sorry if it seems like I'm trolling. I'll be sure to mention you in my post so you can be updated.

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