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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1835

post #27511 of 37396

Noodle's frank and often insulting advice thread (with a chance of a history and politics thrown in)

post #27512 of 37396
@The Noodles your bodyfat is too high to consider an actual "bulk." Get your diet under control, start consistent resistance training, and you will see a fairly rapid shift in body composition at your age.
post #27513 of 37396
Anyone own a Paul Stuart suit? Very British?

I kind of just gave up on the fresco and will just accept that I will not look the same as I will in others. The pear effect is accentuated no matter the angle. So I will just wear it like this.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MGoCrimson View Post

@The Noodles your bodyfat is too high to consider an actual "bulk." Get your diet under control, start consistent resistance training, and you will see a fairly rapid shift in body composition at your age.
No, when my body fat % was much lower and when I hit Gold Gym 3 to 4 days per week. I was at 170 lbs doing a lot of reps on low weights. My body fat is........19% now. So I agree with you. Yikes!!!
post #27514 of 37396

@The Noodles look into Phineas Cole. It's part of Paul Stuart, and they make some pretty cool stuff. Lots of British influences as well.

post #27515 of 37396
From frying pan to fire

Portrait_003.jpg
post #27516 of 37396
Thread Starter 
@upr_crust has had experience with both PS and PC.

Plus there is a certain (silly) gravitas that comes with Crusty's advice that might speak to Noodles.
post #27517 of 37396
There is a Paul Stuart store in DC but it seems butt expensive.
post #27518 of 37396
Need some GNA on a grey herringbone RTW jacket that I'm not sure whether to keep. It's from Freeman's Sporting Club (FSC) if anyone has any experience with the brand that brings anything to bear. Sleeves are unfinished and rolled up so as to be less of a distraction.

The good (IMO):
  • Shoulders - width and padding/shape
  • 3r2 with 3" lapels
  • Lower buttoning point than my suits (though angle of the picture my not be ideal to see this)
  • Fabric: 95% labs wool, 5% cashmere - it's nice and soft


The not sure - any advice or opinions?:
  • Length - It's a regular, though likely intended to be shorter on people who are taller than me (5'5"). It's 28.5" BOC, which surprisingly (to me) is only about 0.5" longer than the longest other jackets I have. Right now it feels long, though I suspect that feeling may be due in part to it being more roomy (see next bullet) - but how does it appear to you guys?
  • Taking it in at the waist - In the spoilered pics you can see there is 3-4" of space when pulled and I wouldn't say there is a lot of shape to it yet (arms raised pic). I did a quick waist grab in the second visible pic and I think it looks better (and would hopefully open the quarters a bit more) but I don't want to over-nip it. The back seems pretty good for RTW so I don't want it to pull. Perhaps a tailors thread question.
  • The color/versatility - On a scale of light (1) grey to charcoal (10), the jacket is probably a 6 while the pants are a 3, for reference. So it's not northern lights territory and yet I'm not sure any shade grey (light or dark) would be enough contrast. Maybe oatmeal/light brown? And given the length and stylistic details, it seems I may not be able to wear it with more causal fare, but that may not be true.

As little as I may have paid for it, if it's not going to be a useful piece I'm happy to take it back (or pass it forward) in favor of putting that money toward something better. Thanks in advance for any feedback!



Pulled back for waist suppression


Additional Fit Pics (Click to show)









post #27519 of 37396
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

The lamest joke ever is wasting precious hours on this earth pumping steel to create muscles that will eventually deflate anyway.
One hour (less if you have a close gym) 3 times a week to improve fitness and health. Sounds pretty good to me.

And by that logic, why do anything..our mind and body are going to wither away anyway
post #27520 of 37396
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmeyer View Post

Need some GNA on a grey herringbone RTW jacket that I'm not sure whether to keep. It's from Freeman's Sporting Club (FSC) if anyone has any experience with the brand that brings anything to bear. Sleeves are unfinished and rolled up so as to be less of a distraction.

The good (IMO):
  • Shoulders - width and padding/shape
  • 3r2 with 3" lapels
  • Lower buttoning point than my suits (though angle of the picture my not be ideal to see this)
  • Fabric: 95% labs wool, 5% cashmere - it's nice and soft


The not sure - any advice or opinions?:
  • Length - It's a regular, though likely intended to be shorter on people who are taller than me (5'5"). It's 28.5" BOC, which surprisingly (to me) is only about 0.5" longer than the longest other jackets I have. Right now it feels long, though I suspect that feeling may be due in part to it being more roomy (see next bullet) - but how does it appear to you guys?
  • Taking it in at the waist - In the spoilered pics you can see there is 3-4" of space when pulled and I wouldn't say there is a lot of shape to it yet (arms raised pic). I did a quick waist grab in the second visible pic and I think it looks better (and would hopefully open the quarters a bit more) but I don't want to over-nip it. The back seems pretty good for RTW so I don't want it to pull. Perhaps a tailors thread question.
  • The color/versatility - On a scale of light (1) grey to charcoal (10), the jacket is probably a 6 while the pants are a 3, for reference. So it's not northern lights territory and yet I'm not sure any shade grey (light or dark) would be enough contrast. Maybe oatmeal/light brown? And given the length and stylistic details, it seems I may not be able to wear it with more causal fare, but that may not be true.

As little as I may have paid for it, if it's not going to be a useful piece I'm happy to take it back (or pass it forward) in favor of putting that money toward something better. Thanks in advance for any feedback!





Additional Fit Pics (Click to show)









You should opt for a lowering button point, more flattering. Not a huge fan of the high gorge and theres a smidgen of a balance issur, but the biggest issue is the fabric. Its going to be hard to find pants that provide enough contrast with it in FW.

Length and volume are perfect, imo..
post #27521 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

@The Noodles
 look into Phineas Cole. It's part of Paul Stuart, and they make some pretty cool stuff. Lots of British influences as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

@upr_crust has had experience with both PS and PC.

Plus there is a certain (silly) gravitas that comes with Crusty's advice that might speak to Noodles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

There is a Paul Stuart store in DC but it seems butt expensive.

My gravitas is just as good as anyone else's, Clags, silly or not. fight[1].gif

I will tell you my experience of buying PS and PC.

First off, yes, my little Noodle, Paul Stuart/Phineas Cole can be butt expensive - however, the garments from them which I've bought are very well-constructed of very good fabrics. I also have had the luck to hit PS/PC during sales, and have gotten some things for less than butt expensive.

As for fit, I am unsure if the various fits at PS/PC are going to work for you, but, that should only give you the incentive to try them. The worst thing that could happen is that the suits won't fit you (or conversely, the worst thing that could happen is that they fit you so well, you lose control of your fiscal probity).

I don't have narrow shoulders or chest (I normally quote Bette Midler when discussing ma opulente poitrine - "I'm living proof that big tits mean big bucks"), so I am not expert at the "pear-shaped dilemma".

PS has two basic models - Stuart, which is a fuller cut, and Paul, which is a slimmer cut. The model for Phineas Cole is essentially a Paul, with a somewhat shorter jacket, and slimmer trousers. When I first started buying Phineas Cole, on sale, my salesman put me into a 44R, then had the jacket taken in, so that the trousers would fit through the thighs. Since starting to shop at PS, I've lost weight, and can now fit into a 42R (or 42S, depending - I'm 5'9", and short waisted, so short models of suits at PS and elsewhere (most notably New & Lingwood in London) can fit me fine. PS or PC suits normally come with brace buttons, and no belt loops, though you can have belt loops added at the time of purchase.

Phineas Cole suits often come unlined (winter or summer), and the shoulders of all of PS/PC jackets are not heavily padded. PS Paul models, and especially Phineas Cole, the jackets have a great shape to them - or at least for me.

Note also that both PS and PC suits are made in relatively small quantities - one of the ways that the store can encourage buyers to buy at full retail is that they'll only have one or two of a particular model/fabric in a particular size.

Hope that helps you decide if you want to venture into the new store in DC.
Edited by upr_crust - 7/12/15 at 5:50pm
post #27522 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywhyy View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
 
You should opt for a lowering button point, more flattering. Not a huge fan of the high gorge and theres a smidgen of a balance issur, but the biggest issue is the fabric. Its going to be hard to find gray wool pants that provide enough contrast with it in FW.

Length and volume are perfect, imo..

And that I can cosign 100% (though I'm not spotting a balance issue, for whatever that's worth). But I believe that could work with the right dark gray trousers (too dark and shoes get troublesome), or with any of the myriad trouser options besides gray wool – wools in tans or loden greens, or with lots of different moleskins and cords. Or denim, if you really want.

post #27523 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywhyy View Post
One hour (less if you have a close gym) 3 times a week to improve fitness and health. Sounds pretty good to me.

And by that logic, why do anything..our mind and body are going to wither away anyway

 

I agree that GNA about body reshaping is appropriate for this thread, as long as it doesn't get out of hand.

 

@jaywhyy is absolutely right about the health benefits, especially (funnily enough) for older people - exactly the group which tends not to do resistance training. This is why I give the topic a "pass" for the Noodles thread. It's just good-natured, all-round good advice, as long as it has been solicited. (SVB never asked for advice and so the lengthy discussions about his body shape went way too far.)

post #27524 of 37396

On the Paul Stuart topic, I was in the Madison Avenue store last week and was amazed by two things:  the quality and the quantity of the socks on offer.  I could have easily spent $500 ON SOCKS and have been lusting after a bunch of other pairs.  The second, the deep discounting on quality English made footwear.  Many of the lasts were too narrow and long for both my taste and my hobbit like feet but some really gorgeous shoes for great prices.

 

On the exercise topic: Fit people generally are healthier, live longer and look better in clothes.  However, in a thread and on a forum dedicated to tailored clothing, for those that are less than blessed with broad shoulders and or narrow waists (and who prefer other forms of physical activity than resistance training), why not just buy strong shouldered (extended, padded or otherwise) suits that are meant to flatter your body types?   Soft natural shouldered  jackets  do not always flatter people who's shoulders are naturally soft. 

post #27525 of 37396
@upr_crust
Thx for dropping by and sharing your experience. I shall PM you if I find myself needing additional advice on Paul Stuart. So please be on stand by, sir.

@Coxsackie
@jaywhyy
How could this workout discussion be inappropriate for this thread? I agree with you gentlemen. Listen, I am the one who asked for workout tips after I realized that I needed some shoulders. We have covered economics, psychology, marriage, wars, plumbing, purse, jumpsuits, etc.

I think this thread is a good place to discuss, really, anything if there are enough interest. People here are generally good natured with the exception of the immature kid writing this. Tonight's exercise: shoulder shrugs with dumbbells and upside down pushups.

@colco
Yes, it is true that if one desires strong looking shoulders one should buy a suit like that. But what if you have already shelled out $2k on four suits? It was easier for me to do some stupid buttocks exercise and address the "puddle" in my trousers issue and have my wife slap my ass as a way of showing her approval. Why not try to build some shoulders to have a body that would look nice in a Neapolitan suit? It is really worth the effort.

If the advice is given to someone who strictly wants to resolve issues like this via new purchases or alterations, then yes exercise advice would be inappropriate.
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