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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1817

post #27241 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 

I don’t know exactly how many ties I own, but it runs into three figures.  How many of these do I wear with any regularity?  Maybe 25.

 

I expect this is typical.

 

My current and future ties purchases are quite specifically targeted.  Most generally, I’m pretty much only buying ties where the length is right for me.  That means shorter than average (ca. 56”).

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

 

This holds for me as well: I like my ties right around 53 inches, so that limits me (as far as I know) to MTM or bespoke. Right now, I'm relying on Hober, but there are a few shantungs (probably 9 or 10 month appropriate here in Cape Town) and cashmeres (the other few months) that I will probably wind up trying from Exquisite Trimmings. I can wear my longer ties when I go 3-piece, but that means they get worn less as they're excluded from a 2-piece suit or sportcoat as they're too long.

post #27242 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhereNext View Post

This holds for me as well: I like my ties right around 53 inches, so that limits me (as far as I know) to MTM or bespoke. Right now, I'm relying on Hober, but there are a few shantungs (probably 9 or 10 month appropriate here in Cape Town) and cashmeres (the other few months) that I will probably wind up trying from Exquisite Trimmings. I can wear my longer ties when I go 3-piece, but that means they get worn less as they're excluded from a 2-piece suit or sportcoat as they're too long.

Check eBay! Lots of short ties on there, though probably not a ton at 53" (Clags just found one and shot me a PM about it last weekend) - except for knits which always seem to be made shorter. But there are a fair amount < 57, and I find a lot of old brooks brothers there so maybe they still make them new? Or maybe I'm buying a bunch of JRs ties. Shrug.
post #27243 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by semperexcelsius View Post
 

Are you talking about just winter? And maybe it changes with a knit tie for winter, but I thought it was best to generally avoid black ties for use with suits.

 

Sorry, that was in response to Claghorns' post about a minimum tie rotations. Of course, I was exaggerating a bit. You'll need a burgundy knit too. ;)

Seriously, every now and then, I consider wearing knits only, perhaps with a few solid wool/cashmere ones. Try to find pics of @NOBD, he does that minimalistic style very, very well.

Black ties work well enough with suits, I'd say. Except perhaps with charcoal worsted.


 

Black knits with suits (Click to show)

 

post #27244 of 37396

24 was my goal for a long time, and I think it's easy to make that number work.  That said, I've revised my own goal up to 30 (currently at 24 in-rotation and still have some gaps I want to fill). 

 

 

If anyone wants to know how they break down: (Click to show)

1--brown garza fina grenadine

2--brown garza grossa grenadine

3--brown cashmere solid

4--brown wool shepherd's check

5--brown cashmere PoW check

6--brown ancient madder neat

7--brown silk neat

8--green ancient madder neat

9--green garza fina grenadine

10--green silk neat

11--green twill silk w/brown stripes

12--rust garza fina grenadine

13--rust wool neat

14--burgundy garza grossa grenadine

15--burgundy silk w/cream stripes

16--burgundy/brick red wool

17--burgundy silk neat

18--black knit

19--blue ancient madder neat

20--navy garza fina grenadine

21--navy silk neat (summer weight)

22--gray wool solid

23--silver/gray garza fina grenadine

24--gray silk neat

post #27245 of 37396
Thread Starter 
^
Excellent
post #27246 of 37396

Just for purposes of discussion, what role does the solid grenadine play in a wardrobe?  What would be lacking without them?

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #27247 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post
 

24 was my goal for a long time, and I think it's easy to make that number work.  That said, I've revised my own goal up to 30 (currently at 24 in-rotation and still have some gaps I want to fill). 

 

 

If anyone wants to know how they break down: (Click to show)

1--brown garza fina grenadine

2--brown garza grossa grenadine

3--brown cashmere solid

4--brown wool shepherd's check

5--brown cashmere PoW check

6--brown ancient madder neat

7--brown silk neat

8--green ancient madder neat

9--green garza fina grenadine

10--green silk neat

11--green twill silk w/brown stripes

12--rust garza fina grenadine

13--rust wool neat

14--burgundy garza grossa grenadine

15--burgundy silk w/cream stripes

16--burgundy/brick red wool

17--burgundy silk neat

18--black knit

19--blue ancient madder neat

20--navy garza fina grenadine

21--navy silk neat (summer weight)

22--gray wool solid

23--silver/gray garza fina grenadine

24--gray silk neat

That's more browns than I was expecting... in fact, I don't think I've ever owned a brown tie (but I'm looking to in the near future). What color suits do they work best with?

post #27248 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by semperexcelsius View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post
 

24 was my goal for a long time, and I think it's easy to make that number work.  That said, I've revised my own goal up to 30 (currently at 24 in-rotation and still have some gaps I want to fill). 

 

 

If anyone wants to know how they break down: (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

1--brown garza fina grenadine

2--brown garza grossa grenadine

3--brown cashmere solid

4--brown wool shepherd's check

5--brown cashmere PoW check

6--brown ancient madder neat

7--brown silk neat

8--green ancient madder neat

9--green garza fina grenadine

10--green silk neat

11--green twill silk w/brown stripes

12--rust garza fina grenadine

13--rust wool neat

14--burgundy garza grossa grenadine

15--burgundy silk w/cream stripes

16--burgundy/brick red wool

17--burgundy silk neat

18--black knit

19--blue ancient madder neat

20--navy garza fina grenadine

21--navy silk neat (summer weight)

22--gray wool solid

23--silver/gray garza fina grenadine

24--gray silk neat

 

That's more browns than I was expecting... in fact, I don't think I've ever owned a brown tie (but I'm looking to in the near future). What color suits do they work best with?

 

The brown neat is one of the most versatile ties in the history of ties ...

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #27249 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 

Just for purposes of discussion, what role does the solid grenadine play in a wardrobe?  What would be lacking without them?

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

Probably mostly texture—if you look at @heldentenor's list without the grenadines, you still have a good amount of pattern but not nearly as much texture. I think it's probably good to have one or the other in almost all of your ties.

post #27250 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by semperexcelsius View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 

Just for purposes of discussion, what role does the solid grenadine play in a wardrobe?  What would be lacking without them?

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

Probably mostly texture—if you look at @heldentenor's list without the grenadines, you still have a good amount of pattern but not nearly as much texture. I think it's probably good to have one or the other in almost all of your ties.

 

So you would have no use say, for the solid twills mentioned upthread?  (Unless you count twill as a 'texture'.)

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #27251 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post
 

24 was my goal for a long time, and I think it's easy to make that number work.  That said, I've revised my own goal up to 30 (currently at 24 in-rotation and still have some gaps I want to fill). 

 

 

If anyone wants to know how they break down: (Click to show)

1--brown garza fina grenadine

2--brown garza grossa grenadine

3--brown cashmere solid

4--brown wool shepherd's check

5--brown cashmere PoW check

6--brown ancient madder neat

7--brown silk neat

8--green ancient madder neat

9--green garza fina grenadine

10--green silk neat

11--green twill silk w/brown stripes

12--rust garza fina grenadine

13--rust wool neat

14--burgundy garza grossa grenadine

15--burgundy silk w/cream stripes

16--burgundy/brick red wool

17--burgundy silk neat

18--black knit

19--blue ancient madder neat

20--navy garza fina grenadine

21--navy silk neat (summer weight)

22--gray wool solid

23--silver/gray garza fina grenadine

24--gray silk neat


Pics are worth many words.

 

Once staples are arrived at, by which I mean ties that are maximally useful say a midnight knit or a navy or brown grenadine, a tasteful navy/light single stripe repp etc., it's nice and useful to think about seasonal ties.

 

I've tried to increase the summer tie count after having spent a while completing a F/W wool tie collection. So, focusing on brighter and or slightly brasher (not loud) ties. I've got 2-3 more on my list for this season, but my last four:

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Cotton Glen Plaids where the overchecks and material provide the summery feel: green and pink respectively

 

Green shantung with bolder stripes from Shaya at ET.

 

 

And my favorite of this last batch, from Drake's (only available from their store now)

 

 

And for goodness sakes, you want a summer staple, a navy tussah silk, from Drake's for $43?

 

http://www.farfetch.com/shopping/men/Drakes-London-silk-tie-item-10997577.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAjwt_isBRDuisOm1dTQqGISJAAfRrEASoQj1pnj855ANv01khVBzHWrGOg2Pzno3mc6lPYWiBoC89jw_wcB&fsb=1&ef_id=VGeB4QAABcNKJ28L:20150709180625:s

post #27252 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 

 

So you would have no use say, for the solid twills mentioned upthread?  (Unless you count twill as a 'texture'.)

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

I only see one twill mentioned in that list, and it's striped. Even so, I could see some room for like one or two purely solid/untextured ties in that rotation, as long as they were twill or a similar material (which does have a bit of a texture)—I can't see any room for glossily untextured solid ties (satin, etc.) in my wardrobe, though.

post #27253 of 37396

I have a lot of ties. I like ties. gdl expressed a view on this that accords with my own: a lot of times I don't know whether I'll wear a tie a lot before I get it, so if I think I'll wear it, I get it. If it turns out that I don't wear it much, I move it along.

 

One thing that I've found about "staple" ties, particularly solids, is that they're good to have but not frequently worn. In retrospect I think I might have gotten a few because I thought that I "should" have them, rather than because I thought that I would wear them. Not a big deal, but something to consider. Of course, it is nice to have a solid set of solids, just in case.

post #27254 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by semperexcelsius View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 

 

So you would have no use say, for the solid twills mentioned upthread?  (Unless you count twill as a 'texture'.)

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

I only see one twill mentioned in that list, [...]

 

 

 

I wasn't talking about that list.  As I said, I was talking about the discussion a bit further upthread. :)

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #27255 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post


And for goodness sakes, you want a summer staple, a navy tussah silk, from Drake's for $43?

Whoa. On it. Do you know how wide or long it is by chance from owning other Drakes? The sizing on the site seems to be for the jacket shown in the pics, not the tie.

Also thinking about picking this one up:http://www.farfetch.com/shopping/men/salvatore-piccolo-striped-tie-item-11014179.aspx?storeid=9730&ffref=chk_bp_pic

Edit: NM, I looked it up on the Drakes site like a smartypants.
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