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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1808

post #27106 of 37428
Off one suit? I haven't seen variation/sloppiness on multiple suits to state it as a fact like you did though...
post #27107 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post
 


Lots of assumptions in that argument.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post


Not really. I'm basing this purely on facts about Formosa handmade stuff.

 

LOL. So based on one Formosa suit, you assume that all handmade is more sloppy?

post #27108 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post


LOL. So based on one Formosa suit, you assume that all handmade is more sloppy?

Not based on one suit. Handmade has a higher chance of being sloppy. With sloppy I mean the stitching, not the actual fit of the garment. The fit of the garment falls on the higher variance of handmade stuff, which everyone agreed on.
post #27109 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post


Not based on one suit. Handmade has a higher chance of being sloppy. With sloppy I mean the stitching, not the actual fit of the garment. The fit of the garment falls on the higher variance of handmade stuff, which everyone agreed on.

Not sure I follow you with that. Hand-stitched is way cleaner and tighter than machine-stitched. 

post #27110 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywhyy View Post

Not sure I follow you with that. Hand-stitched is way cleaner and tighter than machine-stitched. 

Not all hand stitching is equal. Good hand stitching is better than machine (for certain areas only, as machine is better for some parts), but not all hand stitching is good. Machine stitching is nearly always of equal quality, unless your machine is wonky I suppose.
post #27111 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post


Not all hand stitching is equal. Good hand stitching is better than machine (for certain areas only, as machine is better for some parts), but not all hand stitching is good. Machine stitching is nearly always of equal quality, unless your machine is wonky I suppose.

What is your measure of quality? From my experience, machine-stitching has always been more unsightly versus hand-stitching. Might not make a durability difference in tailoring, but if we're talking leather products like shoes, bags, or jackets, it's a huge difference. 

 

I'd love to see any machine-stitched shoe have 60 spi like you'll see on the outsoles of some Japanese bespoke, or replicate the seams you'll see on a M.A.+ jacket..or have the cleanliness you'll see on Formosa, L&L, Huntsman bespoke (hell even Tom Ford).

post #27112 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywhyy View Post

What is your measure of quality? From my experience, machine-stitching has always been more unsightly versus hand-stitching. Might not make a durability difference in tailoring, but if we're talking leather products like shoes, bags, or jackets, it's a huge difference. 

I'd love to see any machine-stitched shoe have 60 spi like you'll see on the outsoles of some Japanese bespoke, or replicate the seams you'll see on a M.A.+ jacket..or have the cleanliness you'll see on Formosa, L&L, Huntsman bespoke (hell even Tom Ford).

We're talking about suits here, not leather goods. Some seams are better by machine, and even bespoke tailors will usually use machines for certain things. The problem with hand stitching is that it can be done quite badly. Lots of Jeffreyd's posts for example show bad hand stitching from Savile Row houses.

Good hand stitching > machine
Bad hand stitching < machine
post #27113 of 37428
But what about hand stitched plus exercises?
post #27114 of 37428
So... There is variance among hand stitching, but not among machines? Why? Aren't machines operated by humans as well?

(Not to mention the things/Types of stitches that machines cannot do)

I do look forward to you asking your suit maker and pant maker for machine stitches rather than by hand, please let us know how they react.
Edited by venividivicibj - 7/7/15 at 6:21am
post #27115 of 37428

The last 24 hours of this thread.....

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95

post #27116 of 37428
New Friday challenge: DTO Claghorn.
post #27117 of 37428
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

:lurk:


Edited by The Noodles - 7/7/15 at 1:08pm
post #27118 of 37428
Measuring a suit isn't hard. If you were getting a difference of .1 inches, it might be your technique. That's clearly not the case here.
post #27119 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

So... There is variance among hand stitching, but not among machines? Why? Aren't machines operated by humans as well?

(Not to mention the things/Types of stitches that machines cannot do)

I do look forward to you asking your suit maker and pant maker for machine stitches rather than by hand, please let us know how they react.

It's harder to mess up machine stitching. By definition, the machine will make stitches that are equally distant, equally tight, etc.

If you rush hand stitching it's quite easy to do it sloppily with much more variability. Anyways, bring your Formosa to a good bespoke tailor and have him inspect the hand stitching. See what he says.
post #27120 of 37428

Well, can I try to change the subject?

 

Was talking briefly with Mr. Six about Cappelli's which I think I shall try, given the favorable exchange rate and given that my other non-Drake's preferred source (Vanda) has alas raised prices slightly. Given the current exchange rates, it seems a bit cheaper to go with Cappelli for now. 

 

Can I get opinions about ordering on line from them? I see a few styles I like on-line, would opt for a 3 fold to start with, 8.5 cm width. Mostly, I want a knot that isn't too big. Mr. Six also suggests that I can ask about certain patterns that I like but don't see.

 

Shall I send a pic of my ideal knot, specs and proceed from there? I know Noodle's disliked his so no need to rehash that again. But some of you might have ordered from them on-line (internet) rather than in store. Please advise.

 

PS, I've posted some pics of those I like in the Grad Lounge. 

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/428478/the-grad-lounge/1830#post_7982210

 

Some links from Mr. Six there on a few block stripes.

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