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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1803

post #27031 of 37395

That is nice, but I'd wait for Shaya to get his neats up on the site. If they are ET house ties, they will be great, and I think cheaper (at least for the 3 folds).

post #27032 of 37395
:lurk:

Edited by The Noodles - 7/7/15 at 10:58am
post #27033 of 37395
The case of the Phantom pear. lol8[1].gif

Relax, you confirmed the measurements are not the same. Enjoy your suits
post #27034 of 37395

Hi @The Noodles

 

While there are always small variations from one piece to another, these two suits should be made exactly on the same pattern - I just personally went now and measured two suits from an old batch (flannel Prince-of-Wales) and the last 50R grey fresco (the same you have).  They have pretty much the same measurements : around 18.5-18.75 for shoulders across, around 43-43.5" chest from pit to pit, around 30.5" back length. 

 

It is possible that your particular jacket is out of those specs, but there has been no change in pattern or cut.  Maybe your navy plaid jacket was slightly out of specs - hard to say. 

 

Couple comments : did you get any alterations done to the body of the jackets? (e.g. sides);  did you gain any weight between these two pictures?  as you can probably see yourself, the two pictures are taken at different angles and at different distances - I'm sure you can see for yourself the differences in a mirror, but for others, those shots make the comparison difficult.  The grey fresco seems to hug your hips more and the shoulders seem a little more snug.   Separately, the fabrics couldn't be more different so you should expect different drape: one is soft and smooth worsted, it is also fully lined; the other is a crunchy, hard weave that you'd expect to catch onto itself more (friction).   Just some thoughts on the differences between the two... beyond the obvious, which is that light and dark colors give different visual impressions of volumes (which we all know)

post #27035 of 37395
Wider vs narrower shoulders?
post #27036 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Wider vs narrower shoulders?

 

My impression too. I know it's hard to compare from just those two pics but the shoulders on the navy suit look a bit wider. And better... 

post #27037 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

My impression too. I know it's hard to compare from just those two pics but the shoulders on the navy suit look a bit wider. And better... 
Look at the angle of the shoulder seam(?) on the fresco (left side). It is almost vertical while the plaid has a lot of angle. I saw that in his earlier pics and that is when I suspected the shoulder measurements weren't the same with his older suits.
post #27038 of 37395
:lurk:

Edited by The Noodles - 7/7/15 at 10:59am
post #27039 of 37395

Just get out the measuring tape, @The Noodles 

post #27040 of 37395

The blue looks really good on you.

 

Also, if  the grey is bothering you... you can always take in the waist, or instruct the tailor to take in some on the hips if possible?

post #27041 of 37395
lurker[1].gif
Edited by The Noodles - 7/7/15 at 1:11pm
post #27042 of 37395

Quote:

 

Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post
 

 

 

 

I agree that the grey shoulders look a bit narrower on the pics - again, I'm not sure what the measurements say, or which of the two jackets could be a little out of the specs, but visually it looks a bit narrower.

 

That said, I would love to see a pic of the grey suit at the same angle & distance as those - it would be helpful, as all your pics of the grey suit looks a bit distorted to me?

 

 

post #27043 of 37395
Thread Starter 
Can that much variation be due to the fabric? I have two jackets with a decent amount of cashmere and they fit poorly compared to the wool and wool linen from the same pattern.
post #27044 of 37395

There can be quite a bit of variation in how a jacket fits between fabrics (tensile properties, friction, drape).  Some fabrics stretch and some don't.   It's one of the reasons (among others) why bespoke tailors always do intermediate fittings, even when they've made 11 suits for a customer and the customer weight has not changed.   

 

Separately, and because we often bring up that point but don't always have visual references for it, here are two pics I just took of the same suit hanging in the same place.  I was standing at the same point, but there is about a foot difference between the two heights I held the phone/camera at.   Do you notice one suit has narrower shoulders and wider hips than the other?   We have to be careful with angles

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

post #27045 of 37395
:lurk:

Edited by The Noodles - 7/7/15 at 10:59am
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