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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1799

post #26971 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

why the hate for the Zegna/TF quarters?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Major difference is that TF is more squared off...

QED
post #26972 of 37396
I like the more gradual quarters rather than the TF ones they look too sudden
post #26973 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

I'm talking quarters though. Not shoulders or chest...
I know. The Formosa's quarters gradually sweep away from the bottom button whereas the TF's quarters continue mostly straight then make an extremely sharp corner by comparison
post #26974 of 37396
What kind of wood is used for the hanger that comes with Formosa suits? I have been using Jos.A.Banks cedar hangers instead.
post #26975 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

What kind of wood is used for the hanger that comes with Formosa suits? I have been using Jos.A.Banks cedar hangers instead.


it's not wood.

post #26976 of 37396
Thread Starter 

emart has some fantastically shaped ones for like 4000w each, but they're fake wood, not real. Still. Nice shape and a great deal.

post #26977 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmeyer View Post

Not sure if this is a question with a standardized answer, but in regards to shoulder width on an unstructured/unpadded jacket if you were choosing between two sizes, would it be better to err slightly wider or slightly more narrow? Not talking much, maybe 1-2cm in either direction from my norm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

In your case, definitely wider.

Whoops, posted this in waywrn but meant it to be over here!

Was thinking the same, Elio, but when you say "my case" are you judging based on my fits (some of which run too small) or what?

In general, do you think with any shoulder it's better to err wider? Or something without padding wider while a more structured shoulder narrower? I've had shoulders taken in at the tailor before as well with good results, just not an especially cheap alteration.
post #26978 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmeyer View Post


Whoops, posted this in waywrn but meant it to be over here!

Was thinking the same, Elio, but when you say "my case" are you judging based on my fits (some of which run too small) or what?

In general, do you think with any shoulder it's better to err wider? Or something without padding wider while a more structured shoulder narrower? I've had shoulders taken in at the tailor before as well with good results, just not an especially cheap alteration.

With all due respect, but in most of your fit pics your head looks disproportionately large. Wider shoulders could compensate that.
post #26979 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by MGoCrimson View Post
 

It's the relaxed vibe of Neopolitan cuts that do it for me. The TF above just looks very severe in comparison

It's all personal taste. I don't like my suits to look relaxed i.e. Rubinacci. I will say, however, soft shoulders and "classica applicata neapolitana" is thrown around too much as the be-all-end-all. Many guys here would look better in something like a Roman or British style, especially if your physique is not up to par.  

post #26980 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

With all due respect, but in most of your fit pics your head looks disproportionately large. Wider shoulders could compensate that.

I'm highly offended, and would also like to know if there are any stretches I could do for that? wink.gif

Ok fair enough, though I actually have a pretty small head, at least as far as hat size is concerned. I have a long neck, and and am now starting to get my shirts made with a higher collar. In any case, maybe my head still appears large given the size of the rest of my body.

Shoulders have always been one of those things that the moment they feel even a little too wide they're hard for me to feel comfortable with, but jacket length used to be the same and my feelings are changing, so who knows where I'll be in a bit more time.
post #26981 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywhyy View Post
 

It's all personal taste. I don't like my suits to look relaxed i.e. Rubinacci. I will say, however, soft shoulders and "classica applicata neapolitana" is thrown around too much as the be-all-end-all. Many guys here would look better in something like a Roman or British style, especially if your physique is not up to par.  

Of course. I prefer Neopolitan/Attolini silhouettes and shoulders more natural than that of the Formosas because of my build.

post #26982 of 37396
Noodles you might try Belvest too

Noticed that a lot of their newer stuff has flared jacket skirts, like Zegna and TF
post #26983 of 37396
Noodles, if you want to try out different styles on the cheap, go to Suitsupply. Their Washington model is inspired by TF, and has strong padded shoulders and a structured chest.

I think the more dramatic Chittleborough & Morgan/Tommy Nutter style would look very good on you as well.


post #26984 of 37396
Noodles latest panic attack is a bit silly and he appears to be drawing the wrong conclusions from his TF tryout (british vs non-british). Formosa works for you and you can simply park the bus buying Formosas but acknowledging your body limitations (pants look saggy at the back). Albeit, i think the latest formosa jacket appears to have narrower shoulders compared to the rest (and this is based on the pics where you have both hands down, why would anybody think we can judge a fit by holding up a cellphone? ), but i don't know for sure if it's due to optical distortions caused by how the fresco fabric drapes or it is smaller in absolute measurements. You will have to confirm that yourself.

TF looks promising on you (again you have one hand raised) and the angular design of the quarters look consistent with the overall silhouette. But here is my issue with TF, if you get the cut with wide lapels and flaps, do you have enough balls to wear it to work? The design is bold and it generates comments, so while it may look good on you, I don't think it's a practical addition to your wardrobe unless you have the personality to pull it off on a regular basis or it's something you wear ever so often.

The take away from this is, Formosa works for you so keep buying, but if you feel the need for variety then you've just established that structured suits will flatter your body. My advice as a hobbyist is to keep trying different suits. I'm curious to see what you look like in Attolini (another Neapolitan cut but with a bit more structure) and the other brands i mentioned few pages away.
post #26985 of 37396
I wouldn't say Attolini is more structured than Formosa. Some have roped shoulders which may look a bit more structured.
The overall silhouette should suit Noodles very well. Buttoning point is just a bit higher and the jacket quarters a tad longer. This should help de-emphasise his 'hippiness'.
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