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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1794

post #26896 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by EFV View Post


They definitely don't make the suit look dated. I've just looked at collections from a lot of the best suit brands in the world, and a lot of them are bringing back pleats to their trousers (and a lot of them never stopped making them).

 

True, if anything makes it look dated it's the hard 3 buttoning. You could always just button the middle button though.

post #26897 of 37405

I've got trousers both with and without pleats. It's not something concerning which I've got strong feelings one way or the other, and I like variety.

 

That said, certain misconceptions about pleats which have been circulating in recent years are worrying, however. (I say 'recent years' but in fact one can trace the origin of some back to the 60s.) One of these is that they're only appropriate on stouter men, presumably because, like any pleat, they allow for a somewhat great ease of movement. But it doesn't follow from that that non-stout men can't also wear them to good effect. For an example of a forum member which I've cited before in this context, consider some of EFV's excellent fits which feature pleated trousers, and he's pretty trim. A useful thought experiment for pleat-haters would be to look at one of those and imagine it without the pleats; I think something gets lost in most cases, but YMMV of course.

 

From a tailoring (as opposed to a fashion) perspective, one of the effects properly position trouser pleats has is to make the wearer look taller, and the legs slimmer. Pleats achieve this by extending the vertical line of the crease up to the trouser band.  It's a very old and well-understood tailoring optical illusionshorter guys, take notice.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #26898 of 37405
Thread Starter 

@TweedyProf

 

 

You were looking for pointed end knit ties earlier, right? I just noticed that the two on sale from NMWA are nice and wide as well, 3.25 inches. And in good colors, navy and brown(s)

post #26899 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

I am so close to a Suit Supply store but I am stuck at a MadeWell(?) store that has no mens clothing.

Oh, and I walked into an Apple store and took a big #2 and just walked out.

 

Did you use the bathroom at the Apple Store, or was this a more symbolic, public protest/performance art on Apple and its products?

post #26900 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by EFV View Post


I've seen some beautiful trousers from BnT, NSM and Corcos. They're all less expensive than Ambrosi.

Thanks for the recommendations. In any case, what are the most versatile trouser colors?

post #26901 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by semperexcelsius View Post

Thanks for the recommendations. In any case, what are the most versatile trouser colors?
Mid grey.
post #26902 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post

I've got trousers both with and without pleats. It's not something concerning which I've got strong feelings one way or the other, and I like variety.

That said, certain misconceptions about pleats which have been circulating in recent years are worrying, however. (I say 'recent years' but in fact one can trace the origin of some back to the 60s.) One of these is that they're only appropriate on stouter men, presumably because, like any pleat, they allow for a somewhat great ease of movement. But it doesn't follow from that that non-stout men can't also wear them to good effect. For an example of a forum member which I've cited before in this context, consider some of EFV's excellent fits which feature pleated trousers, and he's pretty trim. A useful thought experiment for pleat-haters would be to look at one of those and imagine it without the pleats; I think something gets lost in most cases, but YMMV of course.

From a tailoring (as opposed to a fashion) perspective, one of the effects properly position trouser pleats has is to make the wearer look taller, and the legs slimmer. Pleats achieve this by extending the vertical line of the crease up to the trouser band.  It's a very old and well-understood tailoring optical illusion—shorter guys, take notice.

Cheers,

Ac

Thank you for the kind words. Personally, I like flat fronts just as much as pleated trousers. Flat fronts can look super clean in some outfits.
post #26903 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joenobody0 View Post

Mid grey.

This. Then light grey, tan & mid brown (IMHO).
post #26904 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

Apologies for interrupting a very interesting discussion about bathrooms, but I've just torn two of my favourite Borrelli shirts in one week. Does anyone know a good online source for them, other than shopthefinest? Thanks!

You'll only get the staples from shop the finest. Other online retailers carry dead stock with weird colors and patterns

Check yoox, ehaberdasher.com and tiedeals

Yoox's don't have as much hand work and the collar points are a bit shorter, at least IME.

Grey v-neck undershirts, because I find it more comfortable. If I'm warm that's not the cause.

Don't remove pleats from trousers. No matter how good the tailor it's unlikely to turn out great because the trousers were cut to have them.
post #26905 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post

Did you use the bathroom at the Apple Store, or was this a more symbolic, public protest/performance art on Apple and its products?
Diehard Samsung fan. It was a performance. I even went to Samsung.com on an iPad and left.
post #26906 of 37405
In general, do suits make you look old? Or is the more appropriate description mature? My wife is 8 years younger than me at 26 and she says my suits make me at least 5 years older whereas the casual wear does vice versa.
post #26907 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

In general, do suits make you look old? Or is the more appropriate description mature? My wife is 8 years younger than me at 26 and she says my suits make me at least 5 years older whereas the casual wear does vice versa.

 

So your wife prefers you in bootcut jeans, sneakers and a polo? If so, it's up to you whether you want to start dressing more for her in your free time, as you have to wear suits for work anyways. Maybe you can find a happy medium? 

 

Instead of light wash bootcut jeans you wear some nice darker indigo selvedge jeans or chinos, and instead of sneakers you wear chukkas or loafers or longwings, and instead of polo shirts you wear OCBDs or some nicer, higher quality polos or popovers? 

 

FWIW, I don't think wearing a nice blazer or sportcoat in your free time makes you look old. It's quite a common look from 20 onwards.

post #26908 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post

Did you use the bathroom at the Apple Store, or was this a more symbolic, public protest/performance art on Apple and its products?
Diehard Samsung fan. It was a performance. I even went to Samsung.com on an iPad and left.

Dat SoKo lyfe, yo!

Noodles, it is undeniable that a traditional suit will impart the grown-ass man vibe. Your wife is married to a 34 y.o. man who wears suits. She's gotta come to terms with that. You can improve your casual dressing, though, dressing like a grown-up, yes, but a stylish grown-up.
post #26909 of 37405
Maybe PM CottonDockers and have a heart-to-heart. I think you could go in that direction and look more youthful without falling into the trap of mutton-dressed-as-lamb.
post #26910 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

So your wife prefers you in bootcut jeans, sneakers and a polo? If so, it's up to you whether you want to start dressing more for her in your free time, as you have to wear suits for work anyways. Maybe you can find a happy medium? 

Instead of light wash bootcut jeans you wear some nice darker indigo selvedge jeans or chinos, and instead of sneakers you wear chukkas or loafers or longwings, and instead of polo shirts you wear OCBDs or some nicer, higher quality polos or popovers? 

FWIW, I don't think wearing a nice blazer or sportcoat in your free time makes you look old. It's quite a common look from 20 onwards.
No, she's been doing a makeover. The bootcut jeans are not her work.

I have expressed strong rejections at her suggestions for casual wear. But she recommends stuff from jcrew. I asked why don't I wear a nice patterned pale blue dress shirt roll up the sleeves and wear with a grey trousers? She said that would still make me look old. So I am putting on t-shirts and polo shorts. Sigh
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