or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1781

post #26701 of 37396
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post
 

 

What he knows we will like: blue  brown ties

post #26702 of 37396

I Have another clothing question: How many demerit points would I get for wearing these oxfords with a fairly conservative Grey SC/ Grey Trousers outfit? I'm wondering how urgently I need black derbies. After tooling around in the Edward Green thread and deciding the brown EG Derbies I had bought were 1/2 size to small, someone PM'd me that they had my size in the same EG Derbies but black for $625 US shipped. That's more than I had penciled in for black derbies (had figured to get Carmina from Skoab for half of that price) but $625 Is a pretty attractive price for EG's

 

post #26703 of 37396

Aren't those not derbies?

post #26704 of 37396
 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post
 

Aren't those not derbies?

 

Those are not derbies, they're an Adelaide Oxford which is maybe unclear from the pic I went with. This one is maybe better:

 

post #26705 of 37396
Thread Starter 

Black derbies will never, ever be urgent.

post #26706 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Dlwgosh View Post

Those are not derbies, they're an Adelaide Oxford which is maybe unclear from the pic I went with. This one is maybe better:



Are they black, or dark brown? A dark brown balmoral would be preferable to a black derby IMO.
post #26707 of 37396

I've come to love dark brown Adelaides, though I don't currently own a pair.

 

Regarding Oxfords with odd jackets, people seem to be bothered less about it than they used to be.  While the general principle that suits are more formal than odd jacket/trouser combinations and thus tend to go best with more formal shoes like Oxfords is surely true, there are a lot of characteristics which make a shoe more or less formal beyond the lacing.

 

Personally I find that a dressy Derby/Blucher (say, a cap toe of some flavor in dark brown or oxblood) worn with a suit bothers me less than it used to (and I've done it myself on occasion), but I still don't like a really formal Oxford with most odd jacket combos (I might make an exception for a really formal odd jacket like a navy blazer; I'd need to see the combo).  I don't pretend that's wholly rational, however.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #26708 of 37396

Black. I think these below are Balmorals but I wouldn't consider the Brown to be 'Dark Brown'. You guys don't worry to much about only wearing oxfords with suits and derbies with sport coats?

 

 

post #26709 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Dlwgosh View Post

Black. I think these below are Balmorals but I wouldn't consider the Brown to be 'Dark Brown'. You guys don't worry to much about only wearing oxfords with suits and derbies with sport coats?

 

Closed lacing = balmoral
Open lacing = blucher

I like them.
post #26710 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joenobody0 View Post


Closed lacing = balmoral
Open lacing = blucher

I like them.

 

I thought there was a distinction between blucher and derby as not all derbies have the 1 piece vamp that makes a blucher a blucher? Or something...

 

Anyway, those first shoes I posted will work in a fit with a Grey SC/Grey Trousers?

post #26711 of 37396
Blucher is the American word for derbies. Well, it's a German word actually.
post #26712 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

Blucher is the American word for derbies. Well, it's a German word actually.

SF needs a glossary

post #26713 of 37396

just know that balmoral =/ oxford.

post #26714 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joenobody0 View Post


Closed lacing = balmoral
Open lacing = blucher
 

 

This is the rule I always assumed to be true, but some people disagree.

 

If it gets more complex than this, then I'm okay with being wrong.

post #26715 of 37396

(1)  In some quarters these days Oxford/Balmoral simply means closed lacing and Derby/Blucher simply means open lacing.

 

(2)  There is an older distinction between Derby and Blucher which is less often encountered nowadays:    in a Derby the quarters are a separate piece of leather from the vamp; in a Blucher the vamp and quarters are the same piece of leather.

 

(3)  There is less and less standardization of terms.  So far as many retailers are concerned, for example, ‘Oxford’ is any leather shoe with lacing.

 

I'm not advocating any of these, simply reviewing what the current situation is.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)