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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1730

post #25936 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post
 

 

Great stuff. But... all of these would have been better without the peak lapels, IMHO.

 

Yes.

post #25937 of 37408
Is it sad that when I saw the peak lapel discussion I immediately thought of Clags
post #25938 of 37408
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post
 

 

Great stuff. But... all of these would have been better without the peak lapels, IMHO.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post
 

 

Yes.

That's very much besides the point. Optimality should be balanced with variety. So within variety, are peak lapels fair game for odd jackets? I like them. I can't imagine owning more than those two (keep in mind, I bought a lot of blue jackets before I got around to getting two with peak lapels...and one of those, a suit). At some point, perhaps a brown flannel would be interesting. I feel as though they need to be solid. The second a pattern gets introduced, it immediately become 70's in my head.

post #25939 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post
 

That's very much besides the point. Optimality should be balanced with variety. So within variety, are peak lapels fair game for odd jackets? I like them. I can't imagine owning more than those two (keep in mind, I bought a lot of blue jackets before I got around to getting two with peak lapels...and one of those, a suit). At some point, perhaps a brown flannel would be interesting. I feel as though they need to be solid. The second a pattern gets introduced, it immediately become 70's in my head.


The variety you need is color, not lapel style.  I shouldn't say need...you don't need anything because you regularly look great.  

post #25940 of 37408
Peak lapels work for dinner jackets and maybe a midnight blue, navy or charcoal suit in the right context, but not for a SB sport coat. Fine for DB but that's because DB jackets basically demand peak lapels and I see the merit of a DB blazer. And pro-peak and anti-flap is one of the most schizophrenic things I've ever heard (unless we're dealing with besom pockets which should never be found on an odd jacket.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

I agree with the above. One exception, the "evening suit." Which may be my next bespoke commish. Another exception, something intentionally old fashioned. Like a single breasted peak lapel navy chalk stripe flannel.

Stripes in the evening? Can't say I am a fan.
post #25941 of 37408
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

That's very much besides the point. Optimality should be balanced with variety. So within variety, are peak lapels fair game for odd jackets? I like them. I can't imagine owning more than those two (keep in mind, I bought a lot of blue jackets before I got around to getting two with peak lapels...and one of those, a suit). At some point, perhaps a brown flannel would be interesting. I feel as though they need to be solid. The second a pattern gets introduced, it immediately become 70's in my head.

Variety for the sake of variety is pointless, though. I can't think of any SB odd jacket with peak lapels that would not look better with notch lapels. Peak suggests formality. Odd jacket suggests casual. I have one SB peak lapel odd jacket and on the rare occasion I wear it I regret not having had it made with notch lapels. DB is obviously a different animal, and for someone who loves blue jackets, you could easily get a few DB for the sake of variety and still have them work well.
post #25942 of 37408
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

Peak lapels work for dinner jackets and maybe a midnight blue, navy or charcoal suit in the right context, but not for a SB sport coat. Fine for DB but that's because DB jackets basically demand peak lapels and I see the merit of a DB blazer. And pro-peak and anti-flap is one of the most schizophrenic things I've ever heard (unless we're dealing with besom pockets which should never be found on an odd jacket.

I just make zero associations with flap or jetted. I know that jetted is probably more formal (just having seen them on tuxes more often than flaps. Though I never really pay attention to tuxes, so I could be imagining this). If jetted is more formal, than being pro-peak and anti-flap isn't particularly schizophrenic.

 

I'd never have a peak lapel SB with patch pockets. Bridge too far, right there.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post


Variety for the sake of variety is pointless, though. I can't think of any SB odd jacket with peak lapels that would not look better with notch lapels. Peak suggests formality. Odd jacket suggests casual. I have one SB peak lapel odd jacket and on the rare occasion I wear it I regret not having had it made with notch lapels. DB is obviously a different animal, and for someone who loves blue jackets, you could easily get a few DB for the sake of variety and still have them work well.


But when we choose to go with a green tie where we know the outfit would look better with brown, it isn't variety for variety's sake. If we like the way green looks as well, then you are wearing it because you like that tie or you like the rest of the outfit with the tie

 

Also, I posit that this looks better with peak rather than notch:

.

though here the argument would have been "it would have looked better as a suit," which might be true. And I'd again dissent, though purely on the grounds of difference in taste, that with this particular tie, shirt, and square and how they all come together, the rough gray trousers enhance the look more than the matching navy pants would. Which would not have been the case with this:

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

which was worn as a suit

 

I dislike DB jackets. Suits, probably, too. Too stodgy for me. I have the one, and I'll wear it occasionally. Mostly for the sake of variety (which, come to think of it, isn't a bad thing. Again, provided variety looks good and feels right).


Edited by Claghorn - 6/22/15 at 9:48pm
post #25943 of 37408
If we are talking about jetted pockets, pro-peak and anti-flap may not be schizophrenic, but jetted pockets and odd jackets certain is.

As far as green versus brown ties, I think we're getting a little bit too cute. I don't know any person who debates that green and brown ties both have their place in a wardrobe and can't think of an objective reason why either tie color is wrong or should not be worn. Both are great and have their place under any reasonable interpretation of tradition, aesthetics, etc. You can't say the same for peak lapels on SB odd jackets. If you like peak lapels and don't give a damn about tradition or any rules of classic menswear, then you can certainly go nuts. Most people won't care and the world won't end. But I don't think it's valid to compare two things (peak vs. notch lapels on odd jackets) where one generally isn't done with two other things (brown vs. green ties) where both are done regularly by people of good taste.
post #25944 of 37408
Thread Starter 

I was merely pointing out that we do a lot of things for variety's sake. It's just a question then of the perceived cost of doing so.

 

Comparing peak vs notch to green vs brown isn't in anyway a good comparison due to the difference in magnitude.

 

Agreed about jetted on odd jackets. Flaps look more appropriate. But I hates them so. I'd rather have no pockets.

post #25945 of 37408
Fair enough. I think I am differentiating between doing something where variety is a factor and where it is the sole factor. I like some variety and enjoy wearing different things, but because I like them all versus deciding to wear something just because it is different.
post #25946 of 37408
Thread Starter 

Ah, well, I like the way peak lapels look. I'd never spend money just for the sake of variety. Says the guy with over a dozen blue jackets.

post #25947 of 37408
You might have to start wearing more suits, Claghorn. Would always work with peak lapels and as an academic you can ignore CBD.
post #25948 of 37408
Thread Starter 

That is a battle fought by others and lost long ago. It doesn't help that I just like the way different colored pants/jackets look as opposed to a single color block (at least when it comes to solids). Though I do have that moss green suit coming and did just get a brown houndstooth flannel suit. So more suits are own the horizon, I suppose. But both have jackets that will be seeing more service as an odd jacket than suit jacket.

post #25949 of 37408
Yeah. Neither are the sorts of suits I think of when peak lapels are involved either.

I like the odd jacket look too. But I also like patch pockets and notch lapels. Heck, my dinner jacket has shawl lapels. Only peak lapel jackets I have are DB. I think DB is awesome but to each his own.
post #25950 of 37408
And I notice you say battle and not war, so perhaps there is hope. Or perhaps a celebratory beer too many for the USA women is making me overly pedantic...
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