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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1700

post #25486 of 37392
Quote:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post
 

 

It's probably herringbone, which is fine, as long as it's a good cloth. Some have suggested that herringbone is the best bone.

 

Edit: On closer look, it does appear to be a self-stripe. In which case, PASS. (Tailoring is still excellent, of course.)

 

I thought it was a herringbone, in which case I really want it.

 

You should have ordered this.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post
 

STEEL BLUE HERRINGBONE P&B UNIVERSAL SINGLE-BREASTED SUIT -  15/16 OZ

  • Handmade single-breasted suit with notch lapels and side vents¬†
  • Full canvas construction with natural shoulder (spalla cadente morbida)
  • Steel blue wool worsted cloth with subtle herringbone weave (#74165) from Harrisons P&B Universal book, 15/16 oz fall/winter weight
  • Fully lined; flap hip pockets;¬†barchetta¬†chest pocket; dark brown horn buttons
  • Flat front trousers with curtained waistband, buttoned fly & extended closure

 

 

 

 

 

 

mawr (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

I'd say:
Charcoal
Then that navy flannel chalk stripe
Between those two, get your dark blue odd jacket
I want the navy chalk but why are most chalk flannel? I want a 3 season suit.

 

There are plenty of non-flannel chalk stripes. Flannel is traditional though. I just ordered a worsted version that I think has a lot of the texture and subdued effect of flannel but won't be quite as warm (Smith Botany, 12-13 oz.).

post #25487 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Noodles' Wish List of Suits

(In order of importance...after I get the suspenders)

Pix from B&Tailor 

Grey SB Suit by B&TAILOR in Lovat 3ply

tumblr_n5hohptlMF1s41qhqo2_500.jpg

Hound Tooth 3P by B&TAILOR

Shark Skin Grey Suit

 

B&TAILOR Gray Suit MILETA Wide-Spread White Shirt by B&TAILOR B&TAILOR Silk Tie FRUI Linen White Pocket Square

 

tumblr_nfiu1pcHsK1s41qhqo1_500.jpg 

 

 

I'm not sure if the guy in the first picture is super short (respect: I'm only 5 foot 8) or that tie is super long!

Those all look great, and makes me lust after a houndstooth suit even more. If I was back in the UK, I think I would own one already. Finding a tailor in South Africa that could make me something that nice is an ongoing challenge....

post #25488 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuP View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyVanBuren View Post

I don't think that would work. The specs I posted would be for a medium spread collar with a bit more height than the collar you're currently wearing. I'm not sure how it would make up into a BD with those specs. For a white dress shirt to be worn with ties, you ought to go with a non-BD anyway.

What am I saying?

I mean not a Barbara BD collar - the HC collar as below but with your specs. Do I even need to tell luxire HC collar or can they just make a collar with your specs?

  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

My first luxire shirt. Collar is a custom one based on a proper cloth milano collar with a few little tweaks. The band height is high (I'm 6'2" with a long neck) and I'm tweaking it a little for the next one (slightly less spread). Order is #7210 for anyone interested in the collar. The Yoke and shoulders are also a little tight so have added a bit to them and the chest too for the next version. All in all though a very well made shirt.

 

Just give them the specs.

 

I wouldn't advise the HC collar for you based on the width of your shoulders. The HC is based on the proper cloth milano which has long points and a very wide spread. It will extend halfway to the ends of your shoulders and just look huge. I tried the soft roma collar once which is more or less the same dimensions and it looked ridiculous so since your shoulders are only a quarter of an inch wider than mine I'd say don't do it.

post #25489 of 37392
Are these shirts good, versatile choices? I don't have any linen or cotton-linen blends and can use a new white dress shirt.




Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Are the above shirts good choices?
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuP View Post

noted. will go square.

Ordering five shirts from luxire - will mostly be worn casual i.e. either with jeans untucked or with trousers without tie +/- sportcoat. One white dress shirt.

I don't have any linens and this is what I had in mind.

Are these good versatile choices?

My current shirt collection has about 3-4 blue/sky blue shirts, 5+ banana republic shirts mostly with white as the base and some sort of blue stripes/checks.


1. White dress shirt - can use it with suits and ties
http://custom.luxire.com/products/warzone-plus-white-oxford

2. Blue University Stripes Linen
http://custom.luxire.com/products/blue-university-stripes-linen

3. LINEN_WHITE_BLUE_WINDOWPANE
http://custom.luxire.com/products/white-blue-windowpane-linen

4. JAK_CT_LN_BLUE_04
http://custom.luxire.com/products/sky-blue-linen-cotton


5. Black white gingham
http://custom.luxire.com/products/black-white-gingham-linen
post #25490 of 37392
Are you looking for all of these shirts to be able to be worn with a tie and jacket?
post #25491 of 37392

Is a graduation an event where a suit is required or can I go with odd jacket/pants? Also, is it blasphemy to wear flannel in the summer, or just potentially uncomfortable?

post #25492 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

Are you looking for all of these shirts to be able to be worn with a tie and jacket?

Rarely a tie except the white shirt.

Sometimes a jacket - BUT I will be slowly acquiring sportcoats that fit and I would like to ideally dress in trousers + shirt + SC
post #25493 of 37392
Thread Starter 

@GuP

I haven't really been keeping up with any of the collar stuff. But here are two pieces of advice that, if you follow, you won't go wrong, and if you overthink, you'll waste your time (effort and money)

 

Non-button down:

The collar points need to rest under the lapels of your jacket. Everything beyond this is preference, but as long as they aren't too outlandish (full cutaway or ridiculously angled and long), they will look good. Even without a tie, I like the spread collar with a jacket. But I'll get stoned for saying so. And not the good kind.

 

Button down:

If you are going to wear it with a tie, you need some roll. Moderation is again key. Find something with a lot of roll that you still like. Find something with a little roll that you still like. Buy something in between the two. Without a tie, less of an issue. I still like to see a bit of roll on them to give the shirt extra depth (especially as it'll be missing a tie)

 

That is it. Nothing more worth discussing. As you accumulate more, you'll get a better feel for the collars you like. But at this point, purchase a few with those two pieces of advice in mind, and you'll be more than fine.

post #25494 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post

Is a graduation an event where a suit is required or can I go with odd jacket/pants? Also, is it blasphemy to wear flannel in the summer, or just potentially uncomfortable?

I can't imagine flannel in the summer ever being comfortable.

As far as attending a graduation, either of those seem fine and chances are you'll still look a little overdressed in the crowd.
post #25495 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

@GuP
I haven't really been keeping up with any of the collar stuff. But here are two pieces of advice that, if you follow, you won't go wrong, and if you overthink, you'll waste your time (effort and money)

Non-button down:
The collar points need to rest under the lapels of your jacket. Everything beyond this is preference, but as long as they aren't too outlandish (full cutaway or ridiculously angled and long), they will look good. Even without a tie, I like the spread collar with a jacket. But I'll get stoned for saying so. And not the good kind.

Button down:
If you are going to wear it with a tie, you need some roll. Moderation is again key. Find something with a lot of roll that you still like. Find something with a little roll that you still like. Buy something in between the two. Without a tie, less of an issue. I still like to see a bit of roll on them to give the shirt extra depth (especially as it'll be missing a tie)

That is it. Nothing more worth discussing. As you accumulate more, you'll get a better feel for the collars you like. But at this point, purchase a few with those two pieces of advice in mind, and you'll be more than fine.

Thank you good sir Claghorn.

Stanley here has provided some specs ( 3 1/4 inch points, 5 inch spread, 3/8 inch tie space, 1 1/4 front collar band height, 1 9/16 rear collar band height) and I think he follows more or less your mantra about keeping it simple.

I will now put the collar issue to rest.
post #25496 of 37392
Anyone have any brand recs for glasses? (Normal, not sunglasses)
post #25497 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Anyone have any brand recs for glasses? (Normal, not sunglasses)

What type of style?
post #25498 of 37392
Some day this thread will be both researched and taught from.
post #25499 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Anyone have any brand recs for glasses? (Normal, not sunglasses)

Rayban.
post #25500 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

Some day this thread will be both researched and taught from.

 

We need a better way to organize all the information that's here to be honest. Right now it's kind of scattered and we can't really expect people to read the whole damn thread or guess what the correct search terms are for a lot of this stuff.

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