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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1695

post #25411 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post
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Oh boy! I am awaiting on a $2,000 freaking...
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^Saks never carried Isaia. NM was the only place where I saw them, along with TF.

Saks in Las Vegas has a pretty substantial Isaia selection. The buyers for Saks 5th Ave. are all quite different. The SF store carries no Isaia, but Edward Green. 

post #25412 of 37395

@GuP 

 

There are two issues for me with BDs, how they look unbuttoned and how they look with a tie. It's hard to get a balance. Adelesco's doesn't have enough "lift" in the collar for my tastes though it might look great unbuttoned. 

 

I actually don't like the Luxire collar unbuttoned (#1 in your pic) as the collar is leaning too far toward the shoulder, pulling the collar band out. YMMV.

 

I've got two basic shapes, based on the Borrelli collar, I think (could be Barba) and the Kamakura collar, with my own adjustments.

 

The Kamakura (with it's very gentle, symmetrical "S").

 

 

 

 

I don't wear these with ties.They are patterns for my summer shirts. Here's a pic from the Kamakura SF thread (Edit: It's Henry Carter's). Gives a good lift over the tie.

 

 

I had mine made with Hemrajani where we added an unfused interlining from my sample (which was fused).


The other is the Borrelli collar which I would wear with a tie.

 


Photo from Joe Hemrajani

 

It's got a higher band, and two button. Again with modifications to the above. The roll is nice too:

 


Here's an earlier version. I've reduced the gap in the tie spacing. Shantung haters can look away (tie is Panta, jacket is Eidos). But the collar has a nice lift over the tie.

 

 

 

 

Because the collar is higher, I use these for more work/casual settings than summer.


As these were not done by Luxire, I can't help you there. But I'm sure the Kamakura and Barba have been replicated at luxire (and the latter I think must be similar to the borreli).

 

BDs in the end are quite varied and tastes vary (Foo had a famous thread about this). Basically, for me, it's the soft curve of the "S" unbuttoned and the shape of the bell curve when buttoned that matter. Hope this helps. 


Edited by TweedyProf - 6/10/15 at 4:56am
post #25413 of 37395
The Kamakura collar is one of the better balanced BD collars out there.

FYI that image with the tie is one of my photos (with a HC tie), the shirt is kamakura but I took the photo so if it's being used on the kamakura website I'd appreciate the link to it as they haven't asked permission to use the image
post #25414 of 37395
Borrelli, Panta and Kamakura are best shaped BDs imo.
post #25415 of 37395

@Henry Carter 

 

Sorry, I just googled "Kamakura Collar" and that was one of the first images that came up with a tie. It's actually from the SF thread, not from their website, so I misspoke. Didn't realize it was your pic. Might have to get me a burnt orange tie for the summer.

post #25416 of 37395

Well, I thought I could make it work but it's time to let go of the last 38R suit that never fit me. :violin:

post #25417 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by GuP View Post

Is a button down collar with a roll okay to wear un-tucked or is a cutaway collar better for that purpose?

The collar matters less than the tail. A round tail shirt is meant to be tucked. A square tail shirt is ok to be untucked.

Hmm I don't know if this is particularly true, I think it's more up to personal preference. I don't own 1 shirt that is a square tail because I think it looks silly. All of my casual shirts that I wear untucked (Oxford cloths, linen blends, etc) all have a rounded tail.
post #25418 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by rms340 View Post


Hmm I don't know if this is particularly true, I think it's more up to personal preference. I don't own 1 shirt that is a square tail because I think it looks silly. All of my casual shirts that I wear untucked (Oxford cloths, linen blends, etc) all have a rounded tail.


Of course it's true, there is no doubt that round tails are designed to be tucked. If they weren't they wouldn't be round. However it is also personal preference. I don't think anyone will point the wrinkly finger of disdain at you for wearing a round tail untucked, it's simply not what the shirt was designed for.

post #25419 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post
 


Of course it's true, there is no doubt that round tails are designed to be tucked. If they weren't they wouldn't be round. However it is also personal preference. I don't think anyone will point the wrinkly finger of disdain at you for wearing a round tail untucked, it's simply not what the shirt was designed for.

post #25420 of 37395

Very nice.

post #25421 of 37395
noted. will go square.

Ordering five shirts from luxire - will mostly be worn casual i.e. either with jeans untucked or with trousers without tie +/- sportcoat. One white dress shirt.

I don't have any linens and this is what I had in mind.

Are these good versatile choices?

My current shirt collection has about 3-4 blue/sky blue shirts, 5+ banana republic shirts mostly with white as the base and some sort of blue stripes/checks.


1. White dress shirt - can use it with suits and ties
http://custom.luxire.com/products/warzone-plus-white-oxford

2. Blue University Stripes Linen
http://custom.luxire.com/products/blue-university-stripes-linen

3. LINEN_WHITE_BLUE_WINDOWPANE
http://custom.luxire.com/products/white-blue-windowpane-linen

4. JAK_CT_LN_BLUE_04
http://custom.luxire.com/products/sky-blue-linen-cotton


5. Black white gingham
http://custom.luxire.com/products/black-white-gingham-linen
post #25422 of 37395
@TweedyProf

Have you ever measured your collars as below? If so, would love to see the measurements and see if I can recreate with Luxire.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuP View Post




Edited by GuP - 6/10/15 at 9:33am
post #25423 of 37395

That's a tricky proposition in terms of a solid replication, for various factors (e.g. button placement to secure the collar points is not inconsequential either though you could move them later).

 

I can try later to give you something but won't be able to give you a diagram as above. Did you want measurements for both collars? Or just the Kamakura? I'll try to take measurements this evening.

 

Of course, since I think Kamakura is a standard, you might just buy a shirt from them. They are quite reasonable for the quality (better: go to their NYC store if it's nearby). 

 

Or: you might try the brokeandbespoke collar as that has the closest look to the kamakura. It's not bad and if you'd be happy with it, then it can serve as the basis for tweaking.

 

Last: ask in the Luxire thread if anyone has replicated the Kamakura. 

post #25424 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Last: ask in the Luxire thread if anyone has replicated the Kamakura. 

I haven't been paying too much attention to Luxire, but I've heard Kamakura mentioned many many many times. I'd be shocked if they hadn't copied ("replicated" sounds a bit high brow for what they do) it by now.
post #25425 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joenobody0 View Post


I haven't been paying too much attention to Luxire, but I've heard Kamakura mentioned many many many times. I'd be shocked if they hadn't copied ("replicated" sounds a bit high brow for what they do) it by now.


At this point in my career, I unconsciously opt for maximum number of syllables.

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