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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1682

post #25216 of 37396

Responding to a couple requests here.

 

First for @The Noodles the best picture I can get of a pair of my pleated pants with a pair of Trafalgar braces. Don't have access to any full-length mirrors at this work site. Pants are a brown cavalry twill by Corneliani for RLBL. Pleats are symmetric but due to the lighting it may not appear so in this photo.


 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Details: Epaulet x Southwick olive jacket, Kent Wang tie bar, Spier & Mackay ecru shirt

 

And then for @GuP and anybody else asking about Spier & Mackay, here is a shot or two of their wool/linen navy "hopsack"
 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Apologies for the mirror shots, I don't really have any other options. Pockets are weighed down in the pics with lots of keys, notepads/papers so there may be some strange tugging. Hope this helps. No PS because I'm at work and there's usually an ID tag hanging from the breast pocket.

 

:

post #25217 of 37396

I live about 20 minutes from Spier and Mackay. That jacket and Claghorn's endorsement of their pants has me thinking I might stop by sometime.

post #25218 of 37396
I'm still waiting to hear exactly what sucks about Spier stuff... from the poster who claimed it was so.
post #25219 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuP View Post

Umm I'm going to suit supply soon to try on sport coats!

 

I'm a bit of a SuSu addict, making it a point to pass by their Shanghai store nearly every time I visit that fabulous metropolis. (For those who know Shanghai, SuSu are due to open their new, larger, better-positioned store on Anfu Lu - smack in the centre of the "laowai ghetto" - this month. Try and keep me away from that one.)

 

I now own four SuSu suits - La Spalla in blue flannel, Soho in chalkstripe grey, Havana 3-piece in brown/grey gunclub check, and Lazio 3-piece in a superb light grey VBC wool fabric.

 

Lazio 3pc -

 

Havana 3pc -

 

La Spalla -

 

Soho -

 

 

That's four suits, but I have only acquired one SuSu odd jacket - a Soho in mid-brown PoW tweed -

 

Generally I will try on all their jackets, but usually find there's either some kind of fit problem - sleeves too long (disastrous with their working sleeve buttons), buttoning point too high, poor fit across the shoulders, or whatever. The jackets are also relatively expensive, often the same price as their suits or just shy thereof. I always end up gravitating towards their suit rack.

 

If you can find a SuSu odd jacket that works, good for you. I'm a big fan of their suits but not so convinced about any of their other stuff.

post #25220 of 37396
Thread Starter 
Well, one of the big reasons for GuP to go to SuSu or BB is to just get a few pictures of RTW that doesn't look as bad as his DR MTM
post #25221 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by losrockets View Post

Responding to a couple requests here.

First for @The Noodles
the best picture I can get of a pair of my pleated pants with a pair of Trafalgar braces. Don't have access to any full-length mirrors at this work site. Pants are a brown cavalry twill by Corneliani for RLBL. Pleats are symmetric but due to the lighting it may not appear so in this

Thanks for taking the time to take the photos. I appreciate it.
biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Well, one of the big reasons for GuP to go to SuSu or BB is to just get a few pictures of RTW that doesn't look as bad as his DR MTM
BB...I can never find anything that fits me well there. #Sigh.
post #25222 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Well, one of the big reasons for GuP to go to SuSu or BB is to just get a few pictures of RTW that doesn't look as bad as his DR MTM

post #25223 of 37396

Hugh Laurie's been great in Veep this season.

post #25224 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Well, one of the big reasons for GuP to go to SuSu or BB is to just get a few pictures of RTW that doesn't look as bad as his DR MTM
Death match: SuSu MTM versus DR MTM
post #25225 of 37396
@Coxsackie

Those su su outfits look very nice on you. Here is to hoping I get close to a similar fit as yours.

Btw, is that NYC in the background?
post #25226 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post

I have an untipped 3(?)-fold ET challis that's very nice. It's light but different from Vanda. I hadn't really thought about a direct comparison, so if no one else chimes in, I'll see if I can figure out what I think is different. 
Thanks, I'd appreciate that. I'm undecided between the green striped that Vanda and ET offers. I may prefer the design of Vanda, but I think their ties are way to light for my taste. On the other hand, if I end up acquiring the navy one also (ET), I might just get the green from Vanda for variation's sake. Would appreciate a comparison, nontheless.

 

I think you'll find that ET's ties are more substantial, even when untipped and using fewer folds. Since that striped green Vanda is shantung, I suspect that it would be more substantial than a typical Vanda tie, just by nature of the material. The untipped shantungs that I have from Vanda and other makers are fairly beefy. 

 

I compared untipped wool challis ties from Vanda, ET, and Hober. The Vanda is six-fold, the others three-fold. Perhaps not surprisingly at all, the Vanda is the lightest of the three, even though it uses the most cloth. The Vanda uses the thinnest interlining, ET the heaviest, and Hober is in between. Vanda also uses less interlining so that most of the blades on either end aren't lined. Here are some pics.

 

 

 


And because I had them laid out and this is the kind of nerd we are, in the style of GusW, here are some photos the sewing on each.

 

 

 


Edited by Mr. Six - 6/6/15 at 1:15pm
post #25227 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuP View Post

@Coxsackie

Those su su outfits look very nice on you. Here is to hoping I get close to a similar fit as yours.

Btw, is that NYC in the background?

 

Thanks. I should add that for most of these suits, I had to get the trousers taken in about an inch. You should also remember that SuSu offer a MTM service which may be well worth the extra expense if you can't quite get something off the rack to fit you right. A couple of the forumites have done quite well with SuSu MTM.

 

Background in the city shot is Martin Place, Sydney. The graffiti wall is in Melbourne.

post #25228 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Thanks. I should add that for most of these suits, I had to get the trousers taken in about an inch. You should also remember that SuSu offer a MTM service which may be well worth the extra expense if you can't quite get something off the rack to fit you right. A couple of the forumites have done quite well with SuSu MTM.

Background in the city shot is Martin Place, Sydney. The graffiti wall is in Melbourne.

Cool.

Did anyone tell you that you resemble Michael Douglas?
post #25229 of 37396

Ah...I think someone pointed that out recently. Can't see it myself.

 

My wife thinks I look like Anthony Hopkins playing Hannibal Lecter.

 

So. Gordon Gekko. Hannibal the Cannibal. Hey, it's all cool. Girls tend to go for charismatic villains.

post #25230 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Ah...I think someone pointed that out recently. Can't see it myself.

My wife thinks I look like Anthony Hopkins playing Hannibal Lecter.

So. Gordon Gekko. Hannibal the Cannibal. Hey, it's all cool. Girls tend to go for charismatic villains.

Glad I noticed you were holding a folio or something in that Soho fit - briefly thought you were giving someone the Shooter McGavin guns and we would have had to have a talk ...
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