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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1678

post #25156 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

One of these things is not like the other ...

Are you looking to buy or do you have a specific gap to fill, VVV?

Wanted a navy stripe. Doesn't particularly matter if seasonal or not. Was looking at the triple stripe shantung from earlier, but these look more versatile
post #25157 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Opinions? No, I don't want all three.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)







Can I go with "None of the above"?
post #25158 of 37482
Sure, but could you give reasons why do you don't like them? Boring/not versatile/what
post #25159 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post


yup, with a good roll. Click on my instagram link to see some examples of different ways to roll in shirts (at this point, I use four different BD collars!).

I couldn't open on my phone earlier but now at home I can.

I see what you mean by "rolls" now. I like your blue striped shirt's collar you wore on May 10. Have you ever had one made by Luxire by any chance? I would love to get some measurements of that collar and perhaps try to recreate with luxire.
post #25160 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Sure, but could you give reasons why do you don't like them? Boring/not versatile/what

The striped grenadines generally look off to me. The other tie just looks washed out, and the thin gold stripe in the middle of the white somehow makes it look like a cheap, department store tie.
post #25161 of 37482

Hello again. Seeking some GNAT on casual unstructured sport coats this time.

 

I've got three examples and I like elements of each but no single one is nailing it for me. Would love to hear your thoughts.

 

 

C23gzMS.jpg 

 

Here's my take, and please let me know if you agree/disagree or have further input.

 

Grey (right): This one is 97% cotton, 3% elastane. I found it in a small shop in Bellagio, Italy. My wife spotted it while I was trying on a similar blue one and reminded me that I didn't have anything in this color, so this was maybe the better option (it was). It's super casual though, and due to the extremely short body length, I think it only works with denim and either a T or a polo, not with shirt&tie as I have here. But I present it this way for a few reasons: I think the body has the best overall shape (if not length), by which I mean the balance between the size & shape of the lapels and the open quarters is exactly right. If I could get this shape but just elongated by a couple inches, I think it would be perfect. It also has my favorite lapels, regardless of anything else. The sleeve billowing would be fixed if I bothered to have the upper arms slimmed down a little. But ultimately the buttoning point is way too high and the length is way too short.

 

Blue (center): This one is 58% linen, 42% cotton. Best fabric by far. Thick enough to be durable but soft and breathable as well. Worst lapels -- way too narrow. Quarters not as open as the grey one. Far better body length though. Arms are a little long and no cuff is showing, but for a casual jacket (and one that I wear while driving), I actually prefer this. I still want the body to be an inch longer and the buttoning point to be an inch lower. The shoulders are just slightly too wide.

 

Black (right): This one is a knit; 97% cotton, 7% viscose. Wears/feels more like a sweater than a blazer. Lapels are probably the right size for what it is. Functioning sleeve buttons (which these all have, by the way) prevent the right arm from being lengthened to compensate for my slightly-dropped right shoulder. At least most of the time this isn't noticeable. The only thing I would change about this one is, again, the buttoning point that I find too high, but I think the body length works here, so maybe that would just throw everything off (lowering button stance without increasing body length).

 

I think ultimately I would like to get something that would be a hybrid of these, but so I'm just curious which you guys think fits best, and which elements are the best from each.

post #25162 of 37482

^ If it were indeed possible to combine the three, I'd choose the lapels and quarters of the first one, the fabric and the length of the second one and the sleeves of the third one.

post #25163 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

^ If it were indeed possible to combine the three, I'd choose the lapels and quarters of the first one, the fabric and the length of the second one and the sleeves of the third one.

+1
post #25164 of 37482
Thread Starter 

+2

 

Also, that's one of the first ties of yours that really works with everything else. I know you've got bigger concerns (jackets/suits), but I feel your tie game also holds you back :hide:

post #25165 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post

I believe @DonRaphael
 grabbed the green schappe from Conrad Wu recently, though.  
Yes, I grabbed both the green and brown. The former is sold out now. I'm glad I picked it up before it went out of stock. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
post #25166 of 37482
Noodler's, I'm starting a pair of oatmeal flannel pents on Friday and would like to improve upon this grey pair.

Few data points on me and the grey pair:
  • I'm a towering 5'5"
  • Because of the gym and short legs (26" inseam on these) the tapering doesn't take much distance
  • Cuffs are 1.5"
  • Leg openings are 7"

What I want/am considering for the next pair:
  • Higher rise to natural waist
  • More room in the waist/seat (letting the grey ones out too)
  • More room the whole way down such that the tapering isn't so severe - bump it .5" to 7.5" openings... or should I go more if making the thighs a bit bigger too? I don't want them flying around.
  • Maybe a tiny bit more length - .5" at most - sometimes they appear to bunch up on the leg but I'm hoping a slightly wider fit will help them fall more cleanly
  • Same cuffs - thought about 1.75" but at my height I'm not sure I should go any higher than 1.5"
  • Pull tabs rather than belt loops - unsure about this one but not feeling belts as much lately; pull tabs on odd trews common?
  • Single forward pleats - this is probably the hardest of the decisions; I see so many examples of it I like in waywrn but it's often on what (I think) are taller/slimmer people and I'm afraid it might cause me to look even wider at the hips

Any advice on those tweaks or any others I should make? Thanks very much in advance, doods.




More shots for comparison (Click to show)










post #25167 of 37482

For starters, I'd advice a higher rise @jcmeyer. Your trousers will drape a bit better and it well help lengthen your silhouette. You do use braces?

post #25168 of 37482
A higher rise is the first thing on the list nod[1].gif

And yep, I do use braces, though not always - and I don't really mind having neither a belt nor braces on - which is why I was thinking pull-tabs.
post #25169 of 37482

See below.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcmeyer View Post

Noodler's, I'm starting a pair of oatmeal flannel pents on Friday and would like to improve upon this grey pair.

Few data points on me and the grey pair:
  • I'm a towering 5'5"
  • Because of the gym and short legs (26" inseam on these) the tapering doesn't take much distance
  • Cuffs are 1.5"
  • Leg openings are 7"

What I want/am considering for the next pair:
  • Higher rise to natural waist: Yes.
  • More room in the waist/seat (letting the grey ones out too): Yes.I suffer from the same problem. I've noticed it's not just about having more room in the seat area by asking for a wider hip measurement. It's also about where you ask for the additional with to be added, the back rise and how the seat area is cut, i.e. the curvature. Please take that into account as well. For example, I ordered a pair of Luxire trousers a couple of months ago and asked for 22" hip measurement and 21" front hip measurement. The trousers turned out to be ill fitting at the back and front since I had excess fabric at the front because of the 21" width and ill fitting at the back because of tightness and the trousers riding up my back. For my next pair, which is in the making, I've asked for higher back rise (to avoid having the trousers riding up at the back), straigther cut in the seat area by adjusting the curvature so that I'm having more room in the right place of my seat, and allocated more of the hip width to the back and reduced the front hip width. I haven't seen a picture of your trousers from the back, but from what I can see from the front pictures, you'd definitely need more width at the front.
  • More room the whole way down such that the tapering isn't so severe - bump it .5" to 7.5" openings... or should I go more if making the thighs a bit bigger too? I don't want them flying around. Personally, I wouldn't go lower than 7,75". I'm currently asking for 8,25" for all my trousers. But I'm a hair over 5'10".
  • Maybe a tiny bit more length - .5" at most - sometimes they appear to bunch up on the leg but I'm hoping a slightly wider fit will help them fall more cleanly. I would advise in favor of this if you're going to have a wider leg opening.
  • Same cuffs - thought about 1.75" but at my height I'm not sure I should go any higher than 1.5". I think you could do 1,75", but 1,5" is not wrong either.
  • Pull tabs rather than belt loops - unsure about this one but not feeling belts as much lately; pull tabs on odd trews common? I have odd trousers with pull tabs, although for my future trousers I'll stick with daks side adjusters.
  • Single forward pleats - this is probably the hardest of the decisions; I see so many examples of it I like in waywrn but it's often on what (I think) are taller/slimmer people and I'm afraid it might cause me to look even wider at the hips. Forward pleats are definitely the way to go if you must have pleats, as they make the wearer look slimmer than backward pleats. The thing with pleats is that the fit has to be very good for the pleats to look good. If the front is to tight they'll gap, if the front is to wide, it'll look messy. I'm in favor of single forward pleats.

Any advice on those tweaks or any others I should make? Thanks very much in advance, doods.

  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


More shots for comparison (Click to show)










post #25170 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmeyer View Post

A higher rise is the first thing on the list nod[1].gif

 

Ooops, didn't read :embar:

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