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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1669

post #25021 of 37396
Pretty good thread on light ties: http://www.styleforum.net/t/311632/wearing-light-colored-ties

A few knowledgeable SF guys posted a lot within it.
post #25022 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post
 

 

Stay here long enough and you'll start liking things you never thought you would....like 3.5"+ ties, double monks, 4" lapels, and suede shoes.


Maybe, no, no, very much yes

post #25023 of 37396
Suede seems...seasonal?

Or is it the color of the suede perhaps? I equate a darker shade of suede with fall/winter/cold
post #25024 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

SVB, the sportcoat perfectly demonstrates the changes I suggested. It is much more flattering on you than the suit jacket. The suit makes you look like you have disproportionately long, tubular torso with short legs. This is hugely overcompensates for the "defect" you're trying to correct, your short torso and long legs. I think you said that you're around 5'9", right? When you revealed that, I and others were shocked to learn that you aren't 6'+. You've managed to get the body proportions of a tall man in a relatively short frame. I think a lot of guys would trade with you. smile.gif

 

I appreciate you guys continuing to humor me on this endeavor. So I'm 5'10, actually, but close enough. 

 

I still think the overall proportions of the suit are more flattering when taken out of all other context (current styles, etc), but I do see what you're on about. The lower buttoning point also makes the jacket more comfortable to wear and completely eliminates any potential for "tie peek," which is a big plus for me to not have to worry about that annoyance.

 

If I were going to send the sport coat and those pants to be copied into a suit, I'd still have a bunch of nitpicks on the SC to modify. I think it needs wider lapels, a 1" lower buttoning point and a 1" longer length overall to really fit the 2015 style that seems to be popular in this thread and with many of the guys posting in the CM WAYWRN thread. I could probably ask for 3.5" lapels, since that's the width of my widest ties. But since most of my ties are more like 3-3.25", something like a 4" lapel is going to be pushing it too far, especially on my narrower frame.

 

I do think there could be a place for both in my wardrobe. The YSL style is obviously not en vogue at the moment, but I don't think it's bad or unflattering either. And while I don't think you're wrong in your assessment, I'm not sure if I want to blend in completely either.

 

Oh the one other thing that occurred to me is that the wide spread/cutaway collar with zero tie space is probably not doing the YSL jacket any favors. It works well with the Epaulet SC's higher gorge, but I feel like it clashes with the proportions of the lapels on the YSL suit. So I have a shirt from Luxire on its way with a sort of modified version of Proper Cloth's Roma collar (higher collar band but otherwise same dimensions), which should be arriving in a couple days. I'm going to at least see how that might help the overall balance of the YSL look before I make any final decision.

post #25025 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyVanBuren View Post

I appreciate you guys continuing to humor me on this endeavor. So I'm 5'10, actually, but close enough. 

I still think the overall proportions of the suit are more flattering when taken out of all other context (current styles, etc), but I do see what you're on about. The lower buttoning point also makes the jacket more comfortable to wear and completely eliminates any potential for "tie peek," which is a big plus for me to not have to worry about that annoyance.

If I were going to send the sport coat and those pants to be copied into a suit, I'd still have a bunch of nitpicks on the SC to modify. I think it needs wider lapels, a 1" lower buttoning point and a 1" longer length overall to really fit the 2015 style that seems to be popular in this thread and with many of the guys posting in the CM WAYWRN thread. I could probably ask for 3.5" lapels, since that's the width of my widest ties. But since most of my ties are more like 3-3.25", something like a 4" lapel is going to be pushing it too far, especially on my narrower frame.

I do think there could be a place for both in my wardrobe. The YSL style is obviously not en vogue at the moment, but I don't think it's bad or unflattering either. And while I don't think you're wrong in your assessment, I'm not sure if I want to blend in completely either.

Oh the one other thing that occurred to me is that the wide spread/cutaway collar with zero tie space is probably not doing the YSL jacket any favors. It works well with the Epaulet SC's higher gorge, but I feel like it clashes with the proportions of the lapels on the YSL suit. So I have a shirt from Luxire on its way with a sort of modified version of Proper Cloth's Roma collar (higher collar band but otherwise same dimensions), which should be arriving in a couple days. I'm going to at least see how that might help the overall balance of the YSL look before I make any final decision.

I've said it before and I'll say it again, but if you want Luxire to change that much it'll most likeley end in disappointment for you. Seriously, put the idea on hold for now.

Save the money you intended for Luxire, and get some local in person (not online!) MTM or bespoke when you've saved enough. Wear that for a while to see if you're happy with it, and then send it to Luxire to be copied. It'll end up saving you a lot of money in the long run.
post #25026 of 37396

Well yeah, I agree, changing that much is probably asking for trouble. Whereas if I send the YSL suit to have copied, I already know that I wouldn't have them change anything about it.

 

Plus while not being an expert myself, I've heard & read countless times how the Italian spalla comicia shoulder is impossible to properly replicate by those that don't have serious experience in crafting it.

post #25027 of 37396

I'm glad you mentioned the gorge on the YSL coat. It throws me off every time that I look at it. It's such a signature of the time period of the suit that it colors my viewing of other aspects. But when I focus on the whole, I think that if the gorge were higher, the lapels were about a half inch wider, and trousers were slightly tapered below the knees, then the suit would look really good.

post #25028 of 37396
I like this one more than the triple stripe, but just personal preference there.
post #25029 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyVanBuren View Post
 

Well yeah, I agree, changing that much is probably asking for trouble. Whereas if I send the YSL suit to have copied, I already know that I wouldn't have them change anything about it.

 

Plus while not being an expert myself, I've heard & read countless times how the Italian spalla comicia shoulder is impossible to properly replicate by those that don't have serious experience in crafting it.

 

You don't have to have a spalla camicia shoulder. There are other shoulder expressions out there. I'm sure Luxire can do a regular natural shoulder. Anyways, I still think you'd be much happier with good in person MTM.

post #25030 of 37396

No, what I am saying is that that's how that particular sport coat was made. So if I send it to them, there's a good chance they won't get it right.

post #25031 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyVanBuren View Post
 

No, what I am saying is that that's how that particular sport coat was made. So if I send it to them, there's a good chance they won't get it right.

 

Ah, fair enough. Yeah, that's not going to work either then. I think that in a year or two from now Luxire will be much better at making jackets, so waiting will pay off doubly. 

post #25032 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

You don't have to have a spalla camicia shoulder. There are other shoulder expressions out there. I'm sure Luxire can do a regular natural shoulder. Anyways, I still think you'd be much happier with good in person MTM.

MTM doh baldy[1].gif
post #25033 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

Pretty good thread on light ties: http://www.styleforum.net/t/311632/wearing-light-colored-ties

A few knowledgeable SF guys posted a lot within it.


Thanks for that link TM

 

I have to say, the ties that work do so (for me) only when they are sufficiently contrasting with the shirt in the background. None of the light beiges in that thread work, IMO. Many of those ties pic-ed there are not "light" in my book (e.g. the oranges).

post #25034 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuP View Post

MTM doh baldy[1].gif

So are you going to out the AV who made that poorly fitting jacket or are you just going to elude to it forever? One of those is helpful and one is not.
post #25035 of 37396


Data: ET and Viola Milano (same tie, so buy it from Shaya if interested).

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