or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1666

post #24976 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuP View Post

this was a recent, like in a month or so ago, MTM suit made in NYC by a SF affiliate. baldy[1].gif

 

:confused: Huge shoulder divots as well... sorry mate, but that doesn't look good. Though better than the first one

post #24977 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuP View Post

this was a recent, a month or so, MTM suit jacket made in NYC by a SF affiliate. baldy[1].gif

That was an MTM?

 

I'd say ask to return, but MTMs are doubtful

post #24978 of 37405
FML!

Such an awkward situation, don't know how to approach. This is the first time I am seeing myself in this suit and it looks....not good

Yes. MTM. Paid over a grand for it very recently. Went in for multiple fittings.

To make things spicier, I purchased 3 MTM suits - 2 look not good at all the and the third I have not tried on outside yet. Almost like 4 grand

How to approach?
post #24979 of 37405
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuP View Post

this was a recent, a month or so, MTM suit jacket made in NYC by a SF affiliate. baldy[1].gif

Which AV?

TweedyProf: the green is the only one I like, and I like it a lot

Edit: serious, which AV advised that you get four suits/jackets at one time?! They should know better.
post #24980 of 37405
Well, let me clarify.

Purchased one suit for me, one suit for a family member, and another tuxedo for me. The suit for the family member looks...not good at all. The tuxedo I have not tried on and taken pics.

Is it okay to air out the AV?
post #24981 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuP View Post

Is it okay to air out the AV?

 

:lurk:

post #24982 of 37405
LoL peepwall[1].gif

On a serious note, I was hoping going the MTM/"almost custom" route would get me a nice fitting suit, but I guess I was wrong confused.gif
post #24983 of 37405
Thread Starter 
Yes. More than ok.

Styleforum will allow anyone to advertise (within reason) via an Affiliate Vendor thread provided they pay an AV fee on a monthly basis and they don't break the law (scam, steal, etc). That is the extent of accountability on that front.

One of the reasons this works is because, as a forum, we are able to hold AV's more accountable than we would a normal B&M store. There is more interaction between customer base and ownership. There is more at stake in that interaction from the AV's perspective; much of their success on SF is contingent on reputation here. If they are able to make a crappy product and/or provide very bad advice to a customer without being held accountable, what is the disincentive for them not to continue to do it?

Would you not want the next person to avoid the mistake the AV let you make?


(and I'm really hoping the AV is not Kent Wang as I really like the guy and have a suit in the works from him)
post #24984 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Yes. More than ok.

Styleforum will allow anyone to advertise (within reason) via an Affiliate Vendor thread provided they pay an AV fee on a monthly basis and they don't break the law (scam, steal, etc). That is the extent of accountability on that front.

One of the reasons this works is because, as a forum, we are able to hold AV's more accountable than we would a normal B&M store. There is more interaction between customer base and ownership. There is more at stake in that interaction from the AV's perspective; much of their success on SF is contingent on reputation here. If they are able to make a crappy product and/or provide very bad advice to a customer without being held accountable, what is the disincentive for them not to continue to do it?

Would you not want the next person to avoid the mistake the AV let you make?


(and I'm really hoping the AV is not Kent Wang as I really like the guy and have a suit in the works from him)


KW doesn't  do multiple fittings, so you're good.

post #24985 of 37405

Hello again. Bringing this discussion over here for further analysis:

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyVanBuren View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

I like it with the vest more actually. And I think the pants can be narrowed, especially below the knee, while still maintaining that full cut.

(asking innocently)
How would you describe your taste in ties? @StanleyVanBuren
 

 

Well so the issue with the vest for me is that it ruins the elongating effect of the tie and the lower buttoning point that helps compensate for my short torso and long legs. Without the vest, I think the top/bottom balance is better. But I also think the vest looks cool when I'm not wearing the jacket, so if I plan to take the jacket off at the office, the vest might then be a nice thing to have. For court, or depos, or any other day when I'll be keeping the jacket on most of the time, I'll probably skip the vest.

 

I asked my tailor about maybe narrowing the pants and his take on it was that I shouldn't do it. When he turns down work, I tend to trust there's a good reason behind his thinking. I'm still on the fence about this a little as I do think I could get away with maybe an inch of taper the whole way down and still have the full-cut look, but I hesitate to do anything that will throw the proportions off, and the whole point of this style, to me at least, is that it isn't a super-close-fitting tapered look. 

 

As far as ties go, most of my ties are around the average width of 3-3.25" with a few being narrower and a few being wider. The narrow ones are being stored away for the most part now. In terms of colors and patterns, I tend to favor navy ties (who doesn't), and non-regimental stripes. I'm not a big fan or earth tones but a few will sneak in here and there.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

SVB, I asked in WAYWT if that's vintage, and I find my answer here.

I think the suit would benefit from a higher (but not high) gorge and more open fronts. The buttoning point also looks slightly low, but that could be an impression created by the closed fronts. And, while I might regret saying so, the coat looks just a wee bit long, but again that might be an impression created by the closed fronts.

Before you have Luxire replicate this, could you humor us by pinning the fronts open a bit just to see what it looks like?

 

I'd hesitate to apply 2015 standards to this jacket. Your points would all push this suit more toward what most guys in this thread are showing us, and that style is fine, but that's not what this suit is about. The longer length, lower gorge and buttoning point, and the overall shape were all selling points to me, and if I wanted something like what you're describing, I wouldn't use this as a starting point.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ich_Dien View Post

SVB, the suit fits very well, but I don't think it's doing you any favours to be honest. The shoulders need to be built up considerably.

 

These shoulders have more structure/padding than anything else I've got so I'm not sure I know what you mean.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by greger View Post
 
 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyVanBuren View Post

tumblr_np483yxky51r8bgano1_540.jpg 

I know the full break probably won't get much love on this side of the forum, but here ya go anyway.

Also, if you're not following instagram.com/styleforum this week, well, you should be

What cloth of the coat is that.
It looks really nice.

 

Sorry but I am not sure what you are asking or how to answer. It's not bespoke so I didn't order the cloth from anywhere. It's a jacket that Epaulet had made in a factory in Italy somewhere that they no longer work with so I imagine whatever it is will be pretty hard to find at this point.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ianiceman View Post

SVB, being so long and thin your are certainly a difficult task for a tailor and my scant frame of reference on such things won't be much help, but the picture posted more recently of you in the light blue checkered sport coat presents IMO a much more flattering silhouette than the cream suit. (Leaving aside the stacked lower pants legs).

 

I love that jacket, but I think the shape only works as a sport coat. If that were a suit jacket I'd say it's too short and the buttoning point is too high. But... I did have the thought to try this jacket with the YSL pants yesterday so I can post side by side comparison photos tonight and we can see what people think of the differences between the two when all else is equal. I'll take this to the GNAT thread at that point so as to not clog up this thread.

 

 

Here is the side-by-side:

 

 

f1IeH9F.jpg 

 

what do you guys think?

post #24986 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by cakv View Post
 

Is it roomier in the chest & waist or just waist? Is the button stance lower than that of the Milano? I found the Milano to be very baggy when I tried it on in store. Wore 54L(normally a 52L/42L in most suit makers' sizing) to fit my shoulders, but the coat was so roomy. It required more than 3" of suppression in the waist and I'm by no means lean. Glad to hear the rise is higher. I friggin hate the low-rise trousers that are put out today. With the bottom of the crotch pulled up to the max, the waistband was 2" below my navel, and I can't even wear trou with the crotch touching my sack.

Comparing the same sizes, Roma is roomier overall. As for the jackets' button stance, it's about the same I would say. Maybe a hair lower on Roma because all the Roma jackets that I've seen are longer (BOC) than the Milano jackets. But noting that you'd notice. I can't fit into a 40R Milano, but do fit into a 40R Roma. As for the rise, it's considerably higher. You'll definitely notice the difference when wearing the trousers.

post #24987 of 37405
SVB, the sportcoat perfectly demonstrates the changes I suggested. It is much more flattering on you than the suit jacket. The suit makes you look like you have disproportionately long, tubular torso with short legs. This is hugely overcompensates for the "defect" you're trying to correct, your short torso and long legs. I think you said that you're around 5'9", right? When you revealed that, I and others were shocked to learn that you aren't 6'+. You've managed to get the body proportions of a tall man in a relatively short frame. I think a lot of guys would trade with you. smile.gif
post #24988 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

SVB, the sportcoat perfectly demonstrates the changes I suggested. It is much more flattering on you than the suit jacket. The suit makes you look like you have disproportionately long, tubular torso with short legs. This is hugely overcompensates for the "defect" you're trying to correct, your short torso and long legs. I think you said that you're around 5'9", right? When you revealed that, I and others were shocked to learn that you aren't 6'+. You've managed to get the body proportions of a tall man in a relatively short frame. I think a lot of guys would trade with you. smile.gif


I would have sworn you were >>6 feet

post #24989 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyVanBuren View Post
 

 

what do you guys think?

 

I think the SC has better proportions for you. In my experience, one is looking more for the natural proportions of the coat than for the overall body ratios, because the coat and its lines are so prominent. The second coat is slightly wider at the shoulders and has more natural proportions. It is also more pleasing in relation to your head. The suit emphasizes the stretched look, in particular when one looks at the breast.

 

I recently posted this in the German forum (as part of a larger study of shapes and styles). These three SCs are of exactly the same length and A and C are the same shoulder width and waist. I was a little bit surprised that several people found A to be the most flattering. Btw I have the opposite problem of a long torso and short legs, broad shoulders and narrow hips. The long but narrow quarters of A achieve a slimmer look than the longer lapel opening of C.

 

post #24990 of 37405
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Yes. More than ok.

Styleforum will allow anyone to advertise (within reason) via an Affiliate Vendor thread provided they pay an AV fee on a monthly basis and they don't break the law (scam, steal, etc). That is the extent of accountability on that front.

One of the reasons this works is because, as a forum, we are able to hold AV's more accountable than we would a normal B&M store. There is more interaction between customer base and ownership. There is more at stake in that interaction from the AV's perspective; much of their success on SF is contingent on reputation here. If they are able to make a crappy product and/or provide very bad advice to a customer without being held accountable, what is the disincentive for them not to continue to do it?

Would you not want the next person to avoid the mistake the AV let you make?


(and I'm really hoping the AV is not Kent Wang as I really like the guy and have a suit in the works from him)

 

Kent's pattern has front darts so I don't think that jacket was from him.  I also couldn't see Kent putting someone in a coat where the shoulders are flat out too small, and he's also rather conservative about waist suppression.

 

What did you commission btw?

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)