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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1658

post #24856 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesgatz View Post

DonRaphael: I have a few Kei jackets in Sz 50. Are you looking for specific colors?

PM sent.


Edited by DonRaphael - 5/31/15 at 10:37pm
post #24857 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post
 

 

If you narrow the forearms on the front seam, the pitch sleeve is slightly reduced. My diagram shows the effect somewhat exaggerated, but I guess you can see what happens.

It may or may not cause a problem, depending on the amount you want to slim and the original sleeve pitch. I had one jacket altered and then found this out the hard way :(

 

 

Which bit is the sleeve?

post #24858 of 37396

Oh, I get it. You were referring to this:

 

 

Totally makes sense now.

post #24859 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Which bit is the sleeve?

That's where your arm goes in.
post #24860 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post


That's where your arm goes in.

 

You mean like this?

 

post #24861 of 37396
I'd expected you to post something like this:

hqdefault.jpg
post #24862 of 37396

rp7zs.gif

post #24863 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywhyy View Post

orphan

not a huge fan of navy either. go slightly lighter than navy with some texture (no worsteds); hopsack, serge, wool/linen/silk, etc.

mid blue? no plain wool?
post #24864 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

The Isaia looks like it's an orphaned suit jacket. Doesn't really bear any of the hallmarks of being a blazer or odd jacket. So definite pass.

As far as SuSu vs Spier and McKay: I don't really have any experience with SM's jackets and I do with SuSu's. Both, I suspect, provide a pretty decent bang for your buck. But given that you can actually try on SuSu jackets and that they are generally held to be a pretty solid purchase, that's probably your best bet. Though @spiermackay
recently chimed in in a discussion about SuSu vs SM in their thread, and that's probably worth checking out.

true - will try on a SS jacket and see how it fits before moving forward
post #24865 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by losrockets View Post

@GuP
Here are my my comments on the Spier and Mackay Navy Hopsack jacket: They're spoilered below but you can click the link to follow the full discussion.  http://www.styleforum.net/t/383376/spier-mackay-official-affiliate-thread/1485#post_7907411 Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Wore my navy hopsack today for the first time (got it yesterday). Material was a little disappointing out of the box as I was hoping for more physical texture to the hopsack (see the hopsack BB I have listed for sale) and the material is rather flat physically but visually textured. It is maybe a half inch shorter than I prefer but the length of my 40R is identical to the SuitSupply Havana 40R so it's in-line with contemporary styling.  Looked kind of off on me yesterday but I broke it in at home and then wore it to work today and really liked how it settled in as the wrinkles from shipping fell out and the half canvas started to break in.  The buttons are nice and the color is year-round friendly without being deep navy.  Overall I can see this working out to be my staple, main navy blazer as it's very professional, obviating the need for something like the worsted navy model 2 blazer also available for purchase.  The best part, for me, have to be the sleeves and back.  I believe Spier & Mackay adjusted the way the sleeves are set for the Model 2 and even with my forward sloping shoulders the sleeve/sleevehead looks totally normal and doesn't look like it's getting pulled.  Similarly for an OTR purchase the back is surprisingly clean.  I don't have photos to show right now but I'll try to take some when I wear it next week.  One minor minor issue which probably won't be much of a concern for anybody else is that I wish there were less lining (or more linen - but this would probably keep it from being a work staple), so there are always tradeoffs!  Walking around on a sunny low-80s morning today I felt pretty warm to be honest. But I also run a bit warm and there was no wind/it's Texas so it's always pretty hot.


Edit: The fabric has grown on me - I don't hate it, I just realize I was probably expecting a $500-600 fabric at a $280USD price. Honestly for the price this is a wonderful jacket. Highly recommend people buy before it sells out.



Go try on the Suit Supply offerings. Find your size in the Havana. That'll be your size in Spier & Mackay for future reference. I think the SS looks better and it has less lining which I prefer. For me, I wouldn't necessarily be willing to pay $100 more just for that, which is what the price difference amounts to. Also if you're a 38R I've got a Brooks Brothers 1818 Fitzgerald fit hopsack jacket for sale in the Marketplace at around the same price as the Spier & Mackay but with materials and finishing like the Suit Supply, it retails for around $600 I think.

Edit: Also I now have 3 brown and 3 green (2 olive, 1 is a true green) sportcoats but only 1 navy (the Spier & Mackay) because I've had to size up across the board and sell my other 3 navy jackets. This is my latest addition: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polo-Ralph-Lauren-Corneliani-Olive-Flax-Hopsack-Sport-Coat-40R-3-2-Roll-Italy-/151692479036?nma=true&si=7bYZWVufnG0TXo5jrwNoKf4BtMI%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557



I wear my Epaulet olive plaid wool jacket the same way I'd wear browns, same approach to this one I imagine? It's fully lined which is the only drawback. Has anybody ever had a tailor who did a truly bad job removing the lining (back panel only) from a jacket or will it be a fairly safe ask from my trusted tailor?


good advice rockets. will def try on the SS and see how it fits. the conversion from SM CAD to USD does save about $100 on the sportcoat as opposed to suit supply. will try on the SS and maybe order the SM. will post pics of try ons at the store so you guys can see the fit.

lots of bb stores around here - I am gonna run in and try the fitz in 38R - if fits well, may just take yours.
post #24866 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

Herr is the green Conrad Wu tie that was discussed earlier.

Is this more versatile than the HC neat olive on sale?
post #24867 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuP View Post


Is this more versatile than the HC neat olive on sale?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
green macclesfield neat front1

If you're talking about this, it is saying it is out of stock.

post #24868 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

green-macclesfield-neat-front1.jpg
If you're talking about this, it is saying it is out of stock.

censored.gif

should have copped yesterday
post #24869 of 37396

where you located? 

post #24870 of 37396
nj/nyc area
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