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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1657

post #24841 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Is this your actual first tie? Then go olive. Just safer and easier to wear.

Well not first....I have other ties but I haven't bought a tie in like 5 years. Just gifts and what not.
post #24842 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Dlwgosh View Post

"Slubby" referring to the texture/material(?) of the tie ... ask for a stubby tie and you may cause some confusion. Even worse you might end up with what you ask for.

stubby refers to...umm the stubbiness? not sure really - just going by how clags referred to the stubby tie
post #24843 of 37482
would you recommend spier and mackay for a classic blue sc as well? or should i scour the bs section?

i see this on sale at SM: http://www.spierandmackay.com/product_information/2960_solid_blue_sportcoat
post #24844 of 37482
Thread Starter 
slubby (with an ell) refers to the texture.

I'd advice against getting that for two reasons, one general, one specific.

Specific: that's from their first batch of jackets when they were still working out some cut kinks.

General: don't buy two items from the same brand until you confirm the fit. Saves the hassle.
post #24845 of 37482
Just watched the American Sniper.
post #24846 of 37482
makes sense ok.

just tried on my only navy sc and it doesn't fit. brown will have to wait. navy or some shade of blue first. any recs on where to cop entry level?
post #24847 of 37482
Thread Starter 

Suit Supply or Spier and McKay. Just make sure it's one of their recent models as opposed to the sale model. Good call on getting a blue blazer that fits before jumping into brown (which is amazing, but less versatile).

post #24848 of 37482
navy i suppose would be ideal to start with?

there is a suit supply nearby and i will be try to go in person within a week or so to try something on. i see suit supply has the "navy plain wool", while SM has the navy hopsack.

http://www.spierandmackay.com/product_information/3293_navy_hopsack_blazer___woollinen_model_2_sportcoat

http://us.suitsupply.com/en_US/jackets/havana-navy-plain/C848I.html?start=14&cgid=Jackets&prefn1=color&prefn2=material&prefv2=Wool&srule=PriceAsc&prefv1=Blue

any comparison between SM vs suit supply?
post #24849 of 37482
post #24850 of 37482

orphan

 

not a huge fan of navy either. go slightly lighter than navy with some texture (no worsteds); hopsack, serge, wool/linen/silk, etc.

post #24851 of 37482
Thread Starter 

The Isaia looks like it's an orphaned suit jacket. Doesn't really bear any of the hallmarks of being a blazer or odd jacket. So definite pass.

 

As far as SuSu vs Spier and McKay: I don't really have any experience with SM's jackets and I do with SuSu's. Both, I suspect, provide a pretty decent bang for your buck. But given that you can actually try on SuSu jackets and that they are generally held to be a pretty solid purchase, that's probably your best bet. Though @spiermackay recently chimed in in a discussion about SuSu vs SM in their thread, and that's probably worth checking out.

post #24852 of 37482

@GuP Here are my my comments on the Spier and Mackay Navy Hopsack jacket: They're spoilered below but you can click the link to follow the full discussion.  http://www.styleforum.net/t/383376/spier-mackay-official-affiliate-thread/1485#post_7907411

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Wore my navy hopsack today for the first time (got it yesterday). Material was a little disappointing out of the box as I was hoping for more physical texture to the hopsack (see the hopsack BB I have listed for sale) and the material is rather flat physically but visually textured. It is maybe a half inch shorter than I prefer but the length of my 40R is identical to the SuitSupply Havana 40R so it's in-line with contemporary styling.  Looked kind of off on me yesterday but I broke it in at home and then wore it to work today and really liked how it settled in as the wrinkles from shipping fell out and the half canvas started to break in.  The buttons are nice and the color is year-round friendly without being deep navy.  Overall I can see this working out to be my staple, main navy blazer as it's very professional, obviating the need for something like the worsted navy model 2 blazer also available for purchase.  The best part, for me, have to be the sleeves and back.  I believe Spier & Mackay adjusted the way the sleeves are set for the Model 2 and even with my forward sloping shoulders the sleeve/sleevehead looks totally normal and doesn't look like it's getting pulled.  Similarly for an OTR purchase the back is surprisingly clean.  I don't have photos to show right now but I'll try to take some when I wear it next week.  One minor minor issue which probably won't be much of a concern for anybody else is that I wish there were less lining (or more linen - but this would probably keep it from being a work staple), so there are always tradeoffs!  Walking around on a sunny low-80s morning today I felt pretty warm to be honest. But I also run a bit warm and there was no wind/it's Texas so it's always pretty hot.


Edit: The fabric has grown on me - I don't hate it, I just realize I was probably expecting a $500-600 fabric at a $280USD price. Honestly for the price this is a wonderful jacket. Highly recommend people buy before it sells out.

 


Go try on the Suit Supply offerings. Find your size in the Havana. That'll be your size in Spier & Mackay for future reference. I think the SS looks better and it has less lining which I prefer. For me, I wouldn't necessarily be willing to pay $100 more just for that, which is what the price difference amounts to. Also if you're a 38R I've got a Brooks Brothers 1818 Fitzgerald fit hopsack jacket for sale in the Marketplace at around the same price as the Spier & Mackay but with materials and finishing like the Suit Supply, it retails for around $600 I think.

 

Edit: Also I now have 3 brown and 3 green (2 olive, 1 is a true green) sportcoats but only 1 navy (the Spier & Mackay) because I've had to size up across the board and sell my other 3 navy jackets. This is my latest addition: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polo-Ralph-Lauren-Corneliani-Olive-Flax-Hopsack-Sport-Coat-40R-3-2-Roll-Italy-/151692479036?nma=true&si=7bYZWVufnG0TXo5jrwNoKf4BtMI%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

 


I wear my Epaulet olive plaid wool jacket the same way I'd wear browns, same approach to this one I imagine? It's fully lined which is the only drawback. Has anybody ever had a tailor who did a truly bad job removing the lining (back panel only) from a jacket or will it be a fairly safe ask from my trusted tailor?

post #24853 of 37482
Herr is the green Conrad Wu tie that was discussed earlier.
post #24854 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywhyy View Post
 

Is sleeve pitch altered even if the sleeve isn't removed? I just need my forearms tapered/opening, not the upper (got turkey legs for arms).

 

If you narrow the forearms on the front seam, the pitch sleeve is slightly reduced. My diagram shows the effect somewhat exaggerated, but I guess you can see what happens.

It may or may not cause a problem, depending on the amount you want to slim and the original sleeve pitch. I had one jacket altered and then found this out the hard way :(

 

post #24855 of 37482
DonRaphael: I have a few Kei jackets in Sz 50. Are you looking for specific colors?
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